Brakes - what's the difference?

[Oddball]

Hey all,

I am looking to do my front brakes for the first time since owning the truck as the pads are down to about 3mm.

I have 2 questions:

1. I have always changed rotors when I do pads on other vehicles, but I also don't usually catch them before it's metal on metal, so the rotors are obviously toast in that case. If these rotors look otherwise fine, is there a need to replace?

2. I went on Ford's website to order a new set of front brakes and there were 2 different sets available: BR2216 and BRF1874. I thought maybe the F stands for front, but they are both under the front brakes section and both have the same number from the parts diagram of "2001". What is the difference in these 2 sets?

Thanks

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[Dereku]

Check min rotor thickness and then measure your rotors. I am a big fan of full swaps too. However I did my wifes car at 75k and just did pads. I guess I have been pissing money away for years.

those 2 part numbers appear to be the same, one might just be an updated part. I am a big fan of the power stop carbon fiber ceramic pads. They bed in amazing with the break in procedure and create zero dust. Really good initial bite too. Just a thought.

 

[RangerBill]

Here is Ford brake pad part number info.

 

[Oddball]

Here is Ford brake pad part number info.

Thanks! That explains the prefix!

 

[rmkawboy]

Akebono ceramic pads are the sh*t. Best pads I've ever used. Great stopping power and no dust.

 

[PltFX4]

BRF1874 is the Original Equipment (OE) Spec kit. It is identical to the exact brake pads your truck had when it rolled off the assembly line.

BR2216 is the Retail/Value Spec kit. It is Ford's budget-friendly alternative line designed for standard aftermarket maintenance.

 

[Cabose-1]

Just be sure to resurface the old rotors. Takes out any glazing or warps in the rotor, and provides maximum seating for the new pads. Make sure the rotors are within specs before resurfacing. Just measure them now and calculate how much you will take off and you are good to go.

Keep the rubber side down.

 

[rmkawboy]

Just be sure to resurface the old rotors. Takes out any glazing or warps in the rotor, and provides maximum seating for the new pads. Make sure the rotors are within specs before resurfacing. Just measure them now and calculate how much you will take off and you are good to go.

Keep the rubber side down.

New rotors. Always in my case. I spent 16 years behind an imports only parts counter and unless it's an emergency have always replaced the rotors. They don't "warp" but get a build-up of cementite on them which is a BIG cause of pedal pulse. The other big cause is knuckleheads with air impacts tightening lug nuts and bolts. That'll cause all kinds of problems with pedal pulse and steering wheel shimmy under braking....

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