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I too did this, have a done a lot of trails and no sign of them loosening or coming out of spec.

I wonder if Ford will address this for folks having this issue? TSB?

That's an idea too! I am leaning towards steel as I can purchase plate and bend it, cut out a slot to make the light positions adjustable... But we shall see.

That's cool! same concept, but DIY allows you to save $100 from buying a prefab bracket. I plan to redo mine with angle iron (aluminum won't cut it long term). I like the idea of adjustability in the bracket.

While I appreciate your concern, this is a DIY thread for folks who may be interested in this route. There are plenty of DOT approved fogs that can be used with this method. But in case you're wondering, I do not use these when in traffic, they're much too bright.

Hi all, Weighing options for LED fog lights to replace the existing OEM, I was disappointed in how expensive a simple bracket was to mount an LED in place of the OEM fog light. Upon taking out the fog light housing, I realized that the other DIY LED pod method meant sandwiching the light...

Wanted to revive this thread! Looking to do this myself. Anyone care to share their experience so far? Any issues? As the LED pods sit in between plastic pieces, could there be trouble with melting or deformation when the LEDs get hot?

Can anyone elaborate on this? I too found that disabling the 'Auto Start Stop' in the IPC module did not work. It only turns off the confirmation in the dash.

As the skid rests flush on the bottom of the differential, yes you can.

Also important to note this was not designed for the Ranger, so you have to take instructions with a grain of salt. The bracket is distorting because it isn't made for our axle, and the JL most likely has a slightly different height (shorter) than our housing. I found with spacers or a stack of...

In that particular area, yes. But, if I am heading over a rock and the clearance is that tight, I'd rather drag a 1/4" skid over it instead rather my differential. Also, it protects the driveshaft and u-joints as well.

I don't have exact measurements, I would say somewhere between .5''-1''.

Yes. It comes with 4 longer bolts and washers for mounting the skid on the rear of the axle. Link is in the first post.

The skid matches perfect and rests flush on the bottom of the axle. No leaks , and the bolts go through the diff cover and into the axle housing (they're all through bolts. I wouldn't worry as jeep guys have been using these for years without issue.

The differential is 'unsprung weight' therefore your ride height will not be effected. Personally, I saw zero difference in ride quality or notice anything different.

The 6112's are the same length as OEM (when holding them up side-by-side). I don't think I gained any travel downward (droop). What I wanted to make sure was at the highest setting, the UCA ball joints wouldn't bind up through the suspension cycle sitting a few inches higher than stock. The...

Install completed. Went 6112's on the top notch, gave around 2.5-2.75'' of front end lift. It will probably settle to 2.5''. Coming from a Toyota background, the install process was a little different. a few install notes: -Undoing the 34mm UCA nut is a MUST! I couldn't imagine not having...

What notch did everyone use? With the anticipation of a winch/bumper, I'm thinking of setting mine at the top (location #7).

Right on! Post photos when you mount it up. I would recommend the metal spacer / stack of washers for the bracket (as seen on the third photo).