Bed rail mounts with hard tonneau cover

Return Ranger

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Here's the pics I promised. I haven't gotten the rack yet, but I do have a set of Rhino crossbars (not installed). As I mentioned, it took a little trial-and-error; once you have the Truxedo rails sandwiched between the truck bed and the tonneau rails, the tolerances are much tighter. The only problem I've identified is that the 1/8" thickness of the rails creates a small gap at the tailgate seal, something I can probably solve with a little tailgate seal material (see the picture with my finger).

If the overhead rack doesn't have the capacity you need, you can just go with crossbars, and add a third crossbar if you're worried about weight capacity. In that case you'd just have to worry about how get things out of the bed...just the excuse you needed to buy a Bedslide!

Truxedo has taken down their link, but here's the link to the manual: https://truxedo.com/images/Install Guides/1118345-OWNERS-MANUAL-ELEVATE-RACK.pdf
Description on RealTruck.com: https://realtruck.com/p/elevate-rack-system/trx-1118328/

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I've done a similar install as you. I'm wondering though, is your Elevate Rail sitting pretty flush with the bed rails? On my driver side, I have a slight tilt toward the bed, which I've been able to get close to flush but not quite there.
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AutobotXJ

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Here's the pics I promised. I haven't gotten the rack yet, but I do have a set of Rhino crossbars (not installed). As I mentioned, it took a little trial-and-error; once you have the Truxedo rails sandwiched between the truck bed and the tonneau rails, the tolerances are much tighter. The only problem I've identified is that the 1/8" thickness of the rails creates a small gap at the tailgate seal, something I can probably solve with a little tailgate seal material (see the picture with my finger).



If the overhead rack doesn't have the capacity you need, you can just go with crossbars, and add a third crossbar if you're worried about weight capacity. In that case you'd just have to worry about how get things out of the bed...just the excuse you needed to buy a Bedslide!

Truxedo has taken down their link, but here's the link to the manual: https://truxedo.com/images/Install Guides/1118345-OWNERS-MANUAL-ELEVATE-RACK.pdf
Description on RealTruck.com: https://realtruck.com/p/elevate-rack-system/trx-1118328/

IMG_1176.jpg


IMG_1177.jpg


IMG_1179.jpg


IMG_1180.jpg
I've done a similar install as you. I'm wondering though, is your Elevate Rail sitting pretty flush with the bed rails? On my driver side, I have a slight tilt toward the bed, which I've been able to get close to flush but not quite there.
Were you ever able to work with the elevate rails? Were you able to get it level? Are you enjoying them?
I was able to find a used BAK Revolver- it was broken but I was able to fix it. Now, I want to see the (seemingly few) options for adding a rack with it. I really like the revolver, so I won’t be ditching it for a rack...
 

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Has anyone removed their plastic bed rail caps ?

Are the caps held on only with clips ? Or is there adhesive/tape under there ?
 
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Has anyone removed their plastic bed rail caps ?

Are the caps held on only with clips ? Or is there adhesive/tape under there ?
I haven't found anyone that has removed them on the forums but it's been since I started this thread that I've researched it. At some point when/if I decide that I can justify a rail mounted rack system project I'm planning on drilling through my rail caps down through the bed and then removing them and installing riv-nuts where the holes in the bed are. Then putting the rail caps back on and mounting a track over top of the cap. See post #5 in this thread for more detail.

As for how the caps are held on, my gut tells me that it's just plastic clips on the underside of the rail cap. The reason I think it's plastic only is because of the slight amount of wiggle and hollow feeling that the caps have. This is not characteristic of something glued/taped down. Here's a graphic I found on ford.parts.com showing what's under the cap.

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Return Ranger

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Were you ever able to work with the elevate rails? Were you able to get it level? Are you enjoying them?
I was able to find a used BAK Revolver- it was broken but I was able to fix it. Now, I want to see the (seemingly few) options for adding a rack with it. I really like the revolver, so I won’t be ditching it for a rack...
I haven't gotten them fully flush, but I also haven't had load on them. I'm using an Extang Xceed cover with the Elevate rails. Eventually, for longer trips, I'll use a couple of Rhino bars across to carry bikes, but the bars are sold out. I'm thinking that once I can put some load on the rails that I might be able to adjust the clamps to get it leveled out.

Looks good though, just haven't been able to use it.
 


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Were you ever able to work with the elevate rails? Were you able to get it level? Are you enjoying them?
I was able to find a used BAK Revolver- it was broken but I was able to fix it. Now, I want to see the (seemingly few) options for adding a rack with it. I really like the revolver, so I won’t be ditching it for a rack...
Autobot and Return Ranger, sorry I haven't been on here in awhile to respond... I did get them to sit flush, after a fair bit of trial and error. I think I uninstalled and reinstalled everything 5 or 6 times. I have a Leer HF650M hard folding tonneau. I originally thought I'd need to use the shims that came with the Elevate rails to keep everything level, but it actually worked best without the shims.

tbh I haven't ended up using the rails much yet. My plan is to use Rhino crossbars to mount a ski/snowboard rack in the wintertime, and the Elevate overhead rack (which I held off on buying and now seems to be unavailable) for camping, etc, during the summer. Eventually I'm thinking either a Bedslide or a Decked system under the tonneau so I can access stuff in the bed even if I can't flip the tonneau open because of the cross rails. But all that adds up and I've gotta spread out the purchases.

COVID and work have gotten in the way of me getting out and really using the setup, so right now they're just some nice rails with moveable tie downs...
 

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Thank you for asking this... I have the 4-fold Tonneau cover from Ford (came from dealership) and looking for a solution to this. Goals are to have a way to mount kayak/bikes and still have locking capability of tonneau cover for gear.
I'm surprised there aren't more options for this! Yakima makes an adapter, but it appears to be sold out, also may only work with sliding covers from what it looks like... https://yakima.com/products/tonneau-kit-1

The elevate option looks like the best one. Looks like I'll have to wait until summer.
 
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Ryanosaurus

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Thank you for asking this... I have the 4-fold Tonneau cover from Ford (came from dealership) and looking for a solution to this. Goals are to have a way to mount kayak/bikes and still have locking capability of tonneau cover for gear.
I'm surprised there aren't more options for this! Yakima makes an adapter, but it appears to be sold out, also may only work with sliding covers from what it looks like... https://yakima.com/products/tonneau-kit-1

The elevate option looks like the best one. Looks like I'll have to wait until summer.
Yeah, I bought a set of the Yakima adapters on Amazon to check and then returned them (yay for free returns!). The problem is that the rubber base of the Yakima t-slot adapter doesn't match the profile of the Truxedo rails. There might be a way to fabricate something with some hard rubber blocks and shop tools, but I have neither the tools nor the skills...
 

Return Ranger

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Autobot and Return Ranger, sorry I haven't been on here in awhile to respond... I did get them to sit flush, after a fair bit of trial and error. I think I uninstalled and reinstalled everything 5 or 6 times. I have a Leer HF650M hard folding tonneau. I originally thought I'd need to use the shims that came with the Elevate rails to keep everything level, but it actually worked best without the shims.
Thanks Ryanosaurus. When you installed the TS Rails, did you have any of the rubber strips between that and the rail cap? I think this may be causing me problems, but I'm not entirely sure what's causing the issue.
 

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Thanks Ryanosaurus. When you installed the TS Rails, did you have any of the rubber strips between that and the rail cap? I think this may be causing me problems, but I'm not entirely sure what's causing the issue.
I took off the strips that came on them and attached the thinner ones. To be honest, I had to mount and remove them 4-5 times to get it all to line up. It’s a good product, but takes a lot of patience to set up right. I thought I would need to use the little shims between the rail caps and the bed rails, but it actually worked best without them.
 

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Would something like this work? I've seen similar set ups around town. But for ladders and loo ong boards and such

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Return Ranger

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I took off the strips that came on them and attached the thinner ones. To be honest, I had to mount and remove them 4-5 times to get it all to line up. It’s a good product, but takes a lot of patience to set up right. I thought I would need to use the little shims between the rail caps and the bed rails, but it actually worked best without them.
Thanks. I think I need to look at this again on the weekend.

One more question. What length Rhino Rack bars did you buy? I'm looking at the 65", but I'd rather buy the 60" if they will work.
 

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Thanks. I think I need to look at this again on the weekend.

One more question. What length Rhino Rack bars did you buy? I'm looking at the 65", but I'd rather buy the 60" if they will work.
I've got the 65s but haven't mounted them yet (COVID wrecked my snowboarding plans this year). I measure the rails to be about 59" outer-edge-to-outer-edge, so you may be able to squeeze 60s on there, but it would be close. You could try get the mounting points first, then measure the width and make a call on 60s vs 65s.
 

Return Ranger

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I've got the 65s but haven't mounted them yet (COVID wrecked my snowboarding plans this year). I measure the rails to be about 59" outer-edge-to-outer-edge, so you may be able to squeeze 60s on there, but it would be close. You could try get the mounting points first, then measure the width and make a call on 60s vs 65s.
I think 65s are the best bet, just wanted to see where you had landed. I was just thinking in the long run, I might get a taller rack, but use the rails on the cab roof. 65s seem big for that, but prob just right for the bed.
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