Auto Stop-Start Steering Angle Issues

[Beach]

It does disable it and you could always black it out with some spray paint. Others have just plugged in a charging head and say that works too.

It is annoying to have to use the button, I never remember until its already killed the engine

Sponsored

 

[OGMix376]

Cheapest and easiest way to disable ASS is plug in a LED nightlight into the rear plug behind your console. It draws just enough to disable it and shuts down automatically after 15-20 minutes after turning the truck off. Save your money for important stuff like dampers and 303 products! You're welcome. ?

Hahaha my 9 year old son is afraid of the dark and goes where ever I go when he’s not with his mom. So he’d like that along as his tablet is fully charged for our long drives?… newer iPads don’t charge very well unless you have that chunky 110v adapter that the type c usb plugs in to…
Till I get brave enough to play with forscan, I have a little button to disable it and sport mode disables it too…
..
thought about it waiting for my little girl to finish her appointment. This situation the OP had, hopefully it’s just the Bad Battery. If not that, then what? Was banging around in the brain hole driving the few cells I have left crazy… steering angle sensor the problem? How hard is it to replace? Hope it’s something I don’t end up dealing with, but it’s possible.

 

[Mustang2Ranger]

I have the ASS disabler, plugs into the back of the switch harness, remove trim, plug in and forget. Also at this time I have forgotten where I ordered it

 

[OGMix376]

Hello there,

I recently bought a 2021 Wildtrak. The Stop Start has never worked properly for me. It always said 'Engine on due to vehicle charging'.
I charged up the battery a couple times and reset the BMS (Which I know you are not meant to do unless you are actually replacing the battery.) then after a short drive the stop start would function as it should. After the engine would be off overnight it would not work the next day. I read somewhere that the BMS resets after 8 hours of sleep. So maybe it realised it was being tricked and decided to disable auto stop start again. Anyway, I bought a battery tester and realised I had a bad battery.

I replaced the battery today, however now the auto stop start says 'engine on due to steering angle'. The steering wheel is straight at this time. I tried turning it multiple different ways but it still shows the message. Bare in mind I haven't taken it for a drive yet since replacing the battery today.

If anyone had any tips that would be great.

Thank you.

Not sure if this will help but I was stumbling around the web looking for a solution to this issue, since the battery is good now, the issue now is because of steering.. came across a Reddit with someone dealing with possibly the same issue.
Possible steering angle sensor need recalibration or replacement.

Might be able to check this if you have the back up camera with the guide lines that move.. if they don’t move then it could indicate the steering angle sensor and or torque sensor may be the culprit (or one of them.)

Another mention was about having out of spec play in the steering wheel as well..

Earlier I was playing around with the start stop function and the steering having impact on it.. the vehicle would still stop even if I had a quarter of a wheel rotating but i felt the wheel pulling back towards straight, I pulled against it and the truck started back up.( I forgot to check the engine on notification reason part, apologies that my miss on that.)

I learned that low battery charge (bad battery) steering angle sensor, and steering torque sensor are seemingly pretty common ASS not functioning issues. So you got one out of three knocked out.. two to go (hopefully)
Good luck brother if I stumble across anything else that might be helpful…

??

 

[Shepherd]

Thank you all for the replies.

So far most here are not looking at this from the OPs POV. He didn't complain about ASS working, he complained that it's not working, so all the post about how to disable it are not helping the OP with their concern.

After replacing the battery, some systems may require some drive time to relearn the positions of some sensors like steering, likely using something like Forscan you may be able to force learn it quickly, but if driving it will work it's worth a try. The alternative would be in the future when you replace the battery, find an alternate way to provide +12V to the system while the battery is removed so that no module gets reset, just be very careful with that +12V terminal while it's loose. With all the computers in modern cars, avoiding disconnecting the battery unless you need to do to the work you are performing requires no power to the rest of the truck is the best plan.

I haven't had a chance to take it for a drive since replacing the battery, Ive been in my work van ever since. I'm hoping to get time to take it for a drive today.

I did watch some videos before replacing the battery and I seen someone had placed a 12v trickle charger onto the terminals to keep everything alive, I was more afraid I would hit the clips off something while pulling the battery out. I wish I had done this now!

Yesterday I disconnected the battery again for 30 seconds incase something didn't start up correctly, after doing this I opened forscan trying to find if there was any angle sensor reading option to be found but I found I had a DTC which I didn't have before or after replacing the battery, it was U3003 for 'circuit voltage below threshold' for the power steering control module which I found fishy. I reset the DTC's and it's not come back the few times I've checked. I'm assuming I brought this on by disconnecting the new battery for 30 seconds.

However today I had a thought to check if the reversing camera guide lines would still turn when the steering turns and it does not! The lines stay completely in the centre nomatter what angle I turn the steering wheel to!

Is this something that hopefully self calibrates as driving and taking corners?

I never had this fault before until replacing the battery where the leads were disconnected for maybe 10 minutes?

I see a section for rebooting modules and the Power steering control module is listed, would that be worth doing?

Thanks for the replies again.

 

[Shepherd]

Not sure if this will help but I was stumbling around the web looking for a solution to this issue, since the battery is good now, the issue now is because of steering.. came across a Reddit with someone dealing with possibly the same issue.
Possible steering angle sensor need recalibration or replacement.

Might be able to check this if you have the back up camera with the guide lines that move.. if they don’t move then it could indicate the steering angle sensor and or torque sensor may be the culprit (or one of them.)

Another mention was about having out of spec play in the steering wheel as well..

Earlier I was playing around with the start stop function and the steering having impact on it.. the vehicle would still stop even if I had a quarter of a wheel rotating but i felt the wheel pulling back towards straight, I pulled against it and the truck started back up.( I forgot to check the engine on notification reason part, apologies that my miss on that.)

I learned that low battery charge (bad battery) steering angle sensor, and steering torque sensor are seemingly pretty common ASS not functioning issues. So you got one out of three knocked out.. two to go (hopefully)
Good luck brother if I stumble across anything else that might be helpful…

??

I've only seen this post since I posted myself just now. I had the realisation when I woke up today to check the reversing camera lines, funny now that you've also suggested to do so haha.

I know for a fact when I did get the auto stop start to work as I stated in my first post, when turning the steering wheel the engine would start up again and I also know the reversing camera guide lines were working right up until I replaced the battery.

So I am hoping it will self calibrate when I take it for a drive?

Thank you for the information also!

 

[OGMix376]

Thank you all for the replies.



I haven't had a chance to take it for a drive since replacing the battery, Ive been in my work van ever since. I'm hoping to get time to take it for a drive today.

I did watch some videos before replacing the battery and I seen someone had placed a 12v trickle charger onto the terminals to keep everything alive, I was more afraid I would hit the clips off something while pulling the battery out. I wish I had done this now!

Yesterday I disconnected the battery again for 30 seconds incase something didn't start up correctly, after doing this I opened forscan trying to find if there was any angle sensor reading option to be found but I found I had a DTC which I didn't have before or after replacing the battery, it was U3003 for 'circuit voltage below threshold' for the power steering control module which I found fishy. I reset the DTC's and it's not come back the few times I've checked. I'm assuming I brought this on by disconnecting the new battery for 30 seconds.

However today I had a thought to check if the reversing camera guide lines would still turn when the steering turns and it does not! The lines stay completely in the centre nomatter what angle I turn the steering wheel to!

Is this something that hopefully self calibrates as driving and taking corners?

I never had this fault before until replacing the battery where the leads were disconnected for maybe 10 minutes?

I see a section for rebooting modules and the Power steering control module is listed, would that be worth doing?

Thanks for the replies again.

Looks like I was too late to help with new information for you ? you figured out already the few things I mentioned already. I didn’t see this message till I posted my reply.
Wife is giving me the eye right now because it’s mid night and I’m farting around on the web.

 

[OGMix376]

I've only seen this post since I posted myself just now. I had the realisation when I woke up today to check the reversing camera lines, funny now that you've also suggested to do so haha.

I know for a fact when I did get the auto stop start to work as I stated in my first post, when turning the steering wheel the engine would start up again and I also know the reversing camera guide lines were working right up until I replaced the battery.

So I am hoping it will self calibrate when I take it for a drive?

Thank you for the information also!

When your ASS was working (?? I have a low threshold for humor and entertainment?)
Did you notice if the wheel had firm tension on it or did it feel kinda loose?
I think there are two steering related notifications angle and maneuvering..
Which makes me think angle sensor (obviously for angle) and steering torque sensor (steering maneuvering) it doesn’t read the input correctly from the driver and thinks it’s a yielding turning situation disabling the ASS function. (the individual I read this from was actually in a ford fusion so that may be different.. also their problem was multi faceted as the power steering system was having issues as well the torque sensor issue.)

 

[airline tech]

You are on the right track, clear the code and perform a PSCM Self-Test, the code should clear.
But you may want to check the Fuse to ensure it is secure and not blown.

Ref Item (E) - Fuse 125 Amp and the Connector - this feeds the PSCM, ensure connector is properly secured.

I should add that with these (Fuse Link) fuses sometimes it's hard to visually see that they are blown, so a meter helps or remove it and ensure you cannot pull it apart

Ref Pic Below:

 

[AzScorpion]

I have the ASS disabler, plugs into the back of the switch harness, remove trim, plug in and forget. Also at this time I have forgotten where I ordered it

Probably from 4D Tech. A good set it and forget it plug in.

https://www.4dtech.com/ford-ranger-19-23-start-stop-eliminator/

 

[Chris M]

The plug impacts ASS? So you need a night light on while driving then? ?

Well, he IS in AR now... ?

 

[Mustang2Ranger]

Probably from 4D Tech. A good set it and forget it plug in.

https://www.4dtech.com/ford-ranger-19-23-start-stop-eliminator/

I think mine is this one, but either way same thing

https://www.autostopeliminator.com/...KhZgMgnF5FJKxJDlWALgy8_vC5BqIfS4aAo3JEALw_wcB

 

[Shepherd]

Thankfully I have great news.

The solution was pretty simple... take it for a spin ?

I would like to say thank you to everyone that responded, I know if I was in bigger trouble with sorting it out I was in the right place ?

Special thanks to @OGMix376 suggesting the sensors just need to recalibrate with a drive! Bang on the money. Also to @airline tech with his information regarding where everything is even with a photo, that was very informative had I had to go to the trouble of diving into that area if the drive didn't work!

I paniced when I saw the new error after changing the battery and thought I had done damage to some component, which made me afraid to move the steering wheel at all until I had more information about it, had I just taken it for a spin after replacing the battery I would not have wasted everyones time here ?

Also my Auto Stop Start is now working as it should, I just like things to work that should work, it annoys me if they don't ?

My advice to anyone down the line that stumbles upon this topic:

1) Place a 12v supply on the tails to the battery when replacing the battery in order to keep everything alive just to save any headaches and worry!

2) If after replacing the battery your steering sensor shows a fault or your reversing camera lines dont move, just take it for a spin and take some turns and even a roundabout if possible and it should come right back, mine came back after driving for 5 minutes!

3) If all else fails, post a thread in this community, you're in safe hands ?

Thanks all again, I hope I won't be back! ?

Edit: I do have one final question, when I was originally trying to fix my auto stop start "vehicle is charging" notification when I had the BAD battery, I changed the rate of charge to 90% 14.4v and the max charge to 90%, should I now change this back to the original 75% or is it better/ok to leave it at 90? Since I have a brand new healthy battery now?

Thanks again.

 

[TJC]

My advice to anyone down the line that stumbles upon this topic:

1) Place a 12v supply on the tails to the battery when replacing the battery in order to keep everything alive just to save any headaches and worry!

I do have one final question, when I was originally trying to fix my auto stop start "vehicle is charging" notification when I had the BAD battery, I changed the rate of charge to 90% 14.4v and the max charge to 90%, should I now change this back to the original 75% or is it better/ok to leave it at 90? Since I have a brand new healthy battery now?

Thanks again.

1) This works well and eliminates the risks of shorts. Plugs into OBDII port. I own one. If you use the 9v battery you've got aboput 15 minutes to change the battery. The 110v wall wart gives you unlimited time.

OBD Connector Memory Saver AC/9v for Vehicle Battery Replacement/Disconnect Short/Long Term Memory Storage

2) There appears to be two types of people with regards to this subject. Those who adhere to the Ford design for better or worse. And those who see the Ford design as a starting point.

I know what works for me and I optimized the charging system to meet my objective. Ford designed the BMS to optimize for ASS. I personally believe that ASS is designed to increase EPA fleet requirements at the expense of battery life.

I did not attempt to optimize battery life while preserving ASS functionality, as I see the two objectives as contrary to each other. But I am confident that Ford has done this engineering work.

I have also verified that unplugging the BMS sensor at the negative terminal results in ASS being disabled, and even more important to me is that BMS defaults to the same charging patterns used in the 4G Rangers.

The question that needs answering if you choose to stay with ASS is at what SOC do you begin to adversely affect the battery life by allowing the BMS to overcharge the battery.

I know that a perpetual 75% battery charge state will allow sulfation to occur resulting in ever higher battery internal resistance as sulfur crystals coat the lead plates, leading to premature battery failure.

Overcharging will also result in shortened battery life. I don't know how intelligent the BMS is. I do know that if I charge my battery to 100%, as soon as I start my truck the BMS will allow the battery to discharge to the SOC Level of 75%.

SOC sets the minimum charge level, and 90% is far better than 75%. But is the BMS smart enough to not overcharge the battery? Remember that with BMS active you will see up to ~16V charge rate spikes while coasting or braking.

Airline Tech has done a great deal of work in this area, but I don't know if he has ASS active or not.

Whatever direction you choose to go, best of luck to you.

 

[airline tech]

Thankfully I have great news.

The solution was pretty simple... take it for a spin ?

I would like to say thank you to everyone that responded, I know if I was in bigger trouble with sorting it out I was in the right place ?

Special thanks to @OGMix376 suggesting the sensors just need to recalibrate with a drive! Bang on the money. Also to @airline tech with his information regarding where everything is even with a photo, that was very informative had I had to go to the trouble of diving into that area if the drive didn't work!

I paniced when I saw the new error after changing the battery and thought I had done damage to some component, which made me afraid to move the steering wheel at all until I had more information about it, had I just taken it for a spin after replacing the battery I would not have wasted everyones time here ?

Also my Auto Stop Start is now working as it should, I just like things to work that should work, it annoys me if they don't ?

My advice to anyone down the line that stumbles upon this topic:

1) Place a 12v supply on the tails to the battery when replacing the battery in order to keep everything alive just to save any headaches and worry!

2) If after replacing the battery your steering sensor shows a fault or your reversing camera lines dont move, just take it for a spin and take some turns and even a roundabout if possible and it should come right back, mine came back after driving for 5 minutes!

3) If all else fails, post a thread in this community, you're in safe hands ?

Thanks all again, I hope I won't be back! ?

Edit: I do have one final question, when I was originally trying to fix my auto stop start "vehicle is charging" notification when I had the BAD battery, I changed the rate of charge to 90% 14.4v and the max charge to 90%, should I now change this back to the original 75% or is it better/ok to leave it at 90? Since I have a brand new healthy battery now?

Thanks again.

You will get mixed answers on this:

Now for me I set mine to 90% and I test the battery periodically to ensure it maintains the lower IR 3.4 range.
So, for me 90% works for keeping, the factory BMS intact, I do not have ASS (deleted from the factory) so that is one factor I do not have to contend with. I have also installed the on board desulphator (I do not know or can prove that it helps or makes any difference) by the addition of that module, but it does not hurt it.

Others will push recommending the disconnect of the BMS, thus charging at a normal rate (old school)

Either way works (helps) in boosting the charge of the battery over the stock (factory 75%) this is noted by viewing my plug in voltmeter (PowerPoint). I no longer see battery voltage dropping down to 12.2 volts when sitting at a stoplight. I see no less than 13.7 or so on the meter, that is the perfect spot for me as the desulphator needs min 13.5 volts to operate.

The design of the BMS is to utilize the battery voltage as much as possible and only trigger the alternator to produce a charging voltage when needed and the lower limit is 12.2 volts @ 75% SOC, by bumping the SOC up the scale to anything above 75% you are raising the lower setpoint of the voltage before the alternator triggers a charging voltage.
By trial and testing so far 90% is the sweet spot for those who wish to keep BMS active and not disconnect.

As TJC has pointed out, no matter what you do, the Wake-Up voltage will always be around 12.1 to 12.3 volts (wake up voltage being the battery voltage reading taken by placing the key to Accy) before starting the truck.
This is from the overnight power draw from the modules on the truck, TJC has it pinpointed down to the (TCU) as possibly the root cause of the draw.
Which does make sense, since you can be in the garage, FOB inside the house and you phone on you and all of a sudden you hear the (Waste-Gate) actuator come to life, this is the Ford Pass checking in on the Health & Location of the truck. I have yet to determine how many times a day / night does it do it or if the proximity of the phone has anything to do with it.
They updated the Fordpass App and took away (1) feature that I liked and that was last updated time. So now I cannot test this as planned.

Sponsored