Auto Folding Mirror Mod Install Instructions - Pictures/Video

rangerdanger

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Think I am understanding it correctly but wanna double check.

The add-a-fuse should have the original 30a AND the added 10a fuse. Correct?
Yes, the 10A protects the accessory and the 30A blows before damaging the truck.
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CoastieN70

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Factory works the way option 1 does. I don't see the need to unfold everytime you unlock.
I had this feature on both my 2015 and 2017 Explorers. Being an "Old Guy" it was the way I would visually check to see if I had locked the vehicle. Folded = Locked; Unfolded = Unlocked. It was the one feature I truly missed by switching to My Ranger, so I intend to fold and unfold with the locks.
I'll let you know how it works out for me... :)
 

CoastieN70

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Well Ranger (Sports) Fans, it's the bottom of the 9th and I have everything hooked up and working as per this threads instructions BUT unfold on Unlock. Other than anxiety because I am a mechanic with some electrical skills and this is a BRAND NEW VEHICLE(!) everything so far went as advertised EXECPT the Grey/Brown Wire on my truck could be mistaken for Grey/Black, this caused about 10 minutes of apprehension but I remembered I am a man and men get it done (read that as I called upon my balls to kick in :) ). I'm taking a small break to get out of the heat and hydrate so I will update Y'all shortly.
 

CoastieN70

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Game Over! The winning close wire is Purple/Green! Just like the Euro directions said, but being a distrusting Red Blooded American Boy I probed the wire before committing to it!
Now just like the American Fords that come with feature my mirrors Fold on Lock (with either the Fob, Thumb detent on the door or the lock switch inside the cab) and Unfold on unlock ( with either the Fob, inside of the door handle or the unlock button in the cab)
Additionally if you are in the cab and lock the doors before engaging the ignition the mirrors will Fold. You can Unfold them with any of the afore mentioned methods or they will Unfold with a Key turn or Start Button push which ever you have.
This is exactly how everything worked on my two previous Explorers.
I am Happy... :)
 

CoastieN70

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All done. I soldered and heat-shrinked the the power wire. Not really necessary, but I always do.

A couple tips:

I've got fat fingers and crappy eyesight, so if there's any way to make a job easier, I'll figure it out.

  • I'm not sure if it is mentioned here, but definitely disconnect the massive plug going into the side of the fusebox to make it easier get to that gray/brown wire.
  • It comes right out. Just push in on black tab and pull up on the white handle and it pops out and gives you a few extra inches of wire to play with. That gray/brown wire (right next to the gray/blue wire) is your target.

push-pull-plug-2.png


  • Keep extra taps on hand. It wasn't until the third tap that I got it to actually connect good enough to the wire where I was happy and not worried it would be a permanent fitting. Even with pulling the plug out, its a somewhat tight fit holding the tap closed and getting a pair of pliers on it.

  • Double check ALL your connections. I had everything connected and could not figure out why not only the auto-folding wasn't working, but even the manual folding wasn't working either. Turns out I completely forgot to plug in the little black module. Duh.
Disconnecting this plug to install the wire spices is definitely the way to go with this install. I tugged at the Gray/Brown wire and thought "This is gonna suck" but after I disconnected the plug it was a "piece of cake." And don't even think about getting to the Purple/Green wire (for unfold on unlock) with the Plug Connected...
 


Pluto

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How the h*ll is everyone getting the passenger compartment fuse panel removed without breaking anything??

I went to wire in some pod lights I installed on the front bumper today and found a suitable 7.5 amp fuse (I believe it’s in spot 2), but when I tried to pull the panel from under the steering wheel, there is some sort of a fastener impeding removal toward the very bottom, about 3” to the right of the OBD2 port location.

I don’t want to break any clips. Any advice here? :headbang:
 

YouknowwhatImean

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Got the module today; installed the module today ~30 minutes.

Good advice earlier about removing the trim from the display side: stuck a trim removal tool inbetween the panels; twist and voila! Came right off.
 

YouknowwhatImean

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How the h*ll is everyone getting the passenger compartment fuse panel removed without breaking anything??

I don’t want to break any clips. Any advice here? :headbang:

You mean the driver's side panel, right? Grab and yanked; came right off. Nothing was impeding mine.
 

CoastieN70

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Got the module today; installed the module today ~30 minutes.

Good advice earlier about removing the trim from the display side: stuck a trim removal tool inbetween the panels; twist and voila! Came right off.
If you are referring to the cover/panel that protects and hides the fuse panel, there's a 3/4 finger detent that serves as a grab handle; s strong yank and this panel hinges down providing good access to the fuse panel.
 

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If you are referring to the cover/panel that protects and hides the fuse panel, there's a 3/4 finger detent that serves as a grab handle; s strong yank and this panel hinges down providing good access to the fuse panel.
The first time I opened mine it was awfully stiff and hard to open. It is always difficult - you don't want to break a plastic clip, but it did require a fair amount of effort before it opened. I think it gets easier the more you open it.
 

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The first time I opened mine it was awfully stiff and hard to open. It is always difficult - you don't want to break a plastic clip, but it did require a fair amount of effort before it opened. I think it gets easier the more you open it.
Exactly, It took me a couple tries the first time. It is really stuck in there from the factory. Just pull and it will come out.
 

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If you are referring to the cover/panel that protects and hides the fuse panel, there's a 3/4 finger detent that serves as a grab handle; s strong yank and this panel hinges down providing good access to the fuse panel.
Thank you! It’s a hinge. I thought the whole panel was supposed to pull straight off. I’ll pull out the clipped portions on the left and right sides and let it hinge down. I can’t believe I couldn’t figure that out -_-

Thanks a ton, CoastieN70!! :like:

Now I can work on wiring in my LED pods up front and Whelen hide-aways into the third brake light housing :sunglasses:
 

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I spent 3 hours today trying to get the module to work, and finally gave up.
I was going with the Option 2 install, using only the Red and Blue wires, and was unable to get the mirrors to fold when the truck was locked. In fact, when I turned on the truck the first time, the mirrors closed and then never re-opened, and the button no longer functioned. I even went an extra step and forwent the taps, electing to directly tie the tapped wires together and still had no luck. Is there a way to test to see if I received a faulty module?
 
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I spent 3 hours today trying to get the module to work, and finally gave up.
I was going with the Option 2 install, using only the Red and Blue wires, and was unable to get the mirrors to fold when the truck was locked. In fact, when I turned on the truck the first time, the mirrors closed and then never re-opened, and the button no longer functioned. I even went an extra step and forwent the taps, electing to directly tie the tapped wires together and still had no luck. Is there a way to test to see if I received a faulty module?
Make sure the red goes to constant 12v. Make sure you see a signal when you hit lock to the blue wire. You do not hook up the green wire for ignition unfold. Make sure everything is plugged in tight. If the button is pushed it will not auto fold. Check all sources with a test light or volt meter. You may have hooked the blue to the unlock wire on the harness. Using the test light on the stock harness, hit lock and it the should flash. If it flashes when you hit unlock now you got the wrong wire. If you want to test it, make sure red is constant, then touch thre blue to a 12v source momentarily. That should make it fold. Touch the green to a 12v and it should open.
 

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I'm not to automotive savvy especially with circuitry. Actually another person who is, will be hooking this module up for me. He told me to get everything needed so I have a few parts questions:

Regarding the end of the fuse tap wire that plugs into the fuse box -
1. Are there one or two fuses pushed into the fuse tap? And is/are the fuse/fuses 10 amp.

The reason I'm asking is that the mini fuses at the auto parts store that are light blue colored like what is pictured in the instructions are 15 amp. Red colored are 10 amp. I bought the light blue, 15 amp but the spades seem too wide apart to push into the fuse tap. Also, what about the fuse thats in the module? Does the wire tap still need to be fused?
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