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Are the aux switch relays big enough for accessories that have in line relays?

Mrtull4

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I installed a new bumper on my 2023 Lariat, and I want to power rear flood cube lights from Aux Switch 6. The set is labelled for 60W so I'm at the 5A max on the line.

I'm using Rough Country 2" cube lights, and they have an inline relay on the included wiring. Since the aux switch fuse box has relays in it, do I cut off the inline relay and wire directly to the lights, or would it be better to wire from the switch fuse box to the original wiring? A buddy of mine said stacking relays won't hurt anything but is unnecessary. I'm torn because if it won't hurt anything, why cut up the included wiring?

Thanks in advance.
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A buddy of mine said stacking relays won't hurt anything but is unnecessary. I'm torn because if it won't hurt anything, why cut up the included wiring?

Thanks in advance.

Stacking relays is fine, but a lot of extra headache. Since you have the tremor switches, I wouldn't add more relays. I believe two of the switches have 25a rating, so you don't want to waste the high amp rating on 5a lights.
 
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Mrtull4

Mrtull4

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Stacking relays is fine, but a lot of extra headache. Since you have the tremor switches, I wouldn't add more relays. I believe two of the switches have 25a rating, so you don't want to waste the high amp rating on 5a lights.
Aux 4 - 6 are the 5 A switches and I was going to go to 6. Lights on the bumper..... The end of the switch row... Seemed appropriate. ?.

I just wasn't sure if I wanted to cut the included cord to remove the inline relay and I'm taking from your response I should. Thanks for the responses.
 

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Aux 3 - would be a better choice - as it appears it's a 10-amp rating, give yourself some cushion vs keeping the fuse at its max rating of 5 amps.
 


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Aux 3 - would be a better choice - as it appears it's a 10-amp rating, give yourself some cushion vs keeping the fuse at its max rating of 5 amps.
That's what I originally thought, but each cube is 30W, and this is where my knowledge of writing is limited. Each cube has its own independent wiring. If I only plug in one cube, it's 2.5A. But if I connect them in parallel, shouldn't the draw still be 2.5 A?

Edit: I looked this up and I can't believe how wrong this is! I should have known better. Voltage is the same, but total current is the sum across each branch in parallel. So 5A; maybe switch 3 would be better.
 
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Let's assume it isn't big enough And it's the only one you have available. I would get another relay that that switch can control that would turn power on to those lights. That should make things easy enough
 

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Stacking relays is fine, but a lot of extra headache. Since you have the tremor switches, I wouldn't add more relays. I believe two of the switches have 25a rating, so you don't want to waste the high amp rating on 5a lights.
25,15,10,5,5,5
 

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Connected in Series or Parallel - It does not matter - The (Total) current draw is factored for the fuse size. No matter what you still have a Total of 60 Watts on that circuit. 2ea pods @ 30 Watts each. (So, I am guessing each pod has 4 lights - each light is 7.5 watts x 4 = 30 Watts) x 2 light pods for a total of 60 Watts.

I suspect the included harness that you are referring has a (Relay & a 10 Amp) fuse installed in the fuse holder.
So, as mentioned above - use #6 switch to trigger the relay, then wire direct to the battery with that (inline) fuse would be an option - if you are intent on using #6 switch.

I do not have a Tremor, so unsure if it is physically possible to swap switch positions (in the switch box) this way (Physically Connect) to switch #3 and then move its location over to #6 position would be an option if (there is enough wire) in the switch housing.
But - If it comes time to sell or trade - Please swap it back as to not create issues for the next owner as they would be looking at switch #3 for a 10-amp fuse that is now 5 amp.
 

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It should also be noted that inside the (Relay Box)


Fuse #3 - 25-Amp - Direct Feed to Relay #1 (Switch #1)

Fuse #5 - 15-Amp - Direct Feed to Relay #2 (Switch #2)

Fuse #1 - 25-Amp - Feeds
Fuse 11a - 10-amp fuse for Relay #3 (Switch #3)
Fuse 11b - 5-amp fuse for Relay #4 (Switch #4)
So, fuse # 1 - gives 10-amp cushion for both switch circuits

Fuse 2 - 20-Amp - Feeds
Fuse 12b - 5-amp fuse for Relay #5 (Switch #5)
Fuse 12a - 5-amp fuse for Relay #6 (Switch #6)
So, Fuse #2 - gives a 10-Amp cushion for both switch circuits
 
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Mrtull4

Mrtull4

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It should also be noted that inside the (Relay Box)
Fuse 2 - 20-Amp - Feeds
Fuse 12b - 5-amp fuse for Relay #5 (Switch #5)
Fuse 12a - 5-amp fuse for Relay #6 (Switch #6)
So, Fuse #2 - gives a 10-Amp cushion for both switch circuits
So what you are saying is that even if I plug a 5 A light to #6, the fuse in the box is actually 5+cushion? That is comforting.
 

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The 5-Amp will still blow before the feeding 20 Amp
run
The unknown is - what wire size (if this is an old school box with actual wires) is routed between the fuse and pin #3 of the relay and are all the relays the same part number.

And the wire size (short) run for the relay output (Customer Access) connection point to add your wire harness or is it a Busbar connection

I can only see the switch wiring which splits at connector C146 - 20g coming off the relay box and then drops down to 22g at that connector feeding back into the cab.

Basically, in a nutshell, IDK if Ford has the relay set up (fused) circuits for the mere convenience of presets or is all the wiring internal to the box all the same wire gauge.
Is the circuit for Switch #6 - Truly LIMITED to only 5-amps?
If this is not a PCB like the BJB is, you can view the wire feeds and note (are they different gauged wires)
If this is a PCB style relay box - then it is defiantly limited, and you want to adhere to the 5-amp rating.


Relay Box.jpg
 

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So, if one really wanted to do it, they could rewire the box anyway they wanted as long as they conform to the amperage total of the Mega 100 Amp Fuse rating
So, 85 Amps Fuse Total (In the Box) with 15-amp buffer (cushion)

Each fuse is spliced off of that main feed - feeding each fuse (appears wire gauge) changes depending on the fuse.

or simply (instead of moving switches) in the switch box, de-pin the fuse locations and relocate and then move the fuse along with it.

Just throwing out - OPTIONS




1739690541776-z0.webp
 
 








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