Another Towing Question

[Harleyfever]

I think that's a pretty bold statement to make that "everyone is aware". From the discussions I've had on other forums, that is clearly NOT the case. Do I think a physical hard-wired button is preferable? Absolutely. However, there obviously is a need for this product or it wouldn't be out there.

I have to say that I was not aware of stored feature, having that is good news. It does concern me that bluetooth is required on the panic button and could possibly lose it.

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[t4thfavor]

I think that's a pretty bold statement to make that "everyone is aware". From the discussions I've had on other forums, that is clearly NOT the case. Do I think a physical hard-wired button is preferable? Absolutely. However, there obviously is a need for this product or it wouldn't be out there.

The need is derrived from one of two things, 1. being too lazy to remove some paneling and connect five physical wires, or 2. being too cheap to pay someone to do it for you.

I'm both 1 and 2, so I live without the AEB feature (I only connected 4 physical wires) since I've never had it on anything I've ever driven, I don't really miss it.

 

[TimmyB]

I have to say that I was not aware of stored feature, having that is good news. It does concern me that bluetooth is required on the panic button and could possibly lose it.

Yeah, it is a concern but for me (again), I don't put myself in those situations. I travel a lot and get passed by people pulling trailers doing 75-80. Sure, your engine can do that, but if that thing gets wiggly on you at that speed, you'll be someone's dashcam highlight reel.

I haven't looked at the reviews in over a year (since I thought I was going to get one). I would guess those would give some indication if this has proven to be a concern from the people who are actually using one.

When I put one in my Explorer to pull my other car to Florida and back, I went with the Hopkins Insight for a couple of reasons. First, the only thing visible was the digital display (which was REALLY helpful), and the fact that it was slider for manual control, rather than a push button. This means you could apply just as much braking force as you wanted, not simply on or off. It was reassuring during those harder braking moments to see that digital display number getting bigger and bigger. You would have to find the wire under the dash and hook into it, but it is a nice system. Very inexpensive, as well.

I'll probably move it over to my Ranger, but the way we're doing things now, I'm not towing anymore. Actually, it will be the Ranger getting towed!

 

[t4thfavor]

I like the Prodigy P3 that I use. It's easy to move rig to rig. I tow with other vehicles sometimes, and I just install the Prodigy pigtail from Amazon for about 12$, it's now plug and play wherever I need it. The panic button is also progressive, and it supports electric, and electric over air, and electric over hydraulic as well as a crapton of other features for up to 4 trailer axles.

 

[2020FRL]

I use the Curt Echo Bluetooth Controller. This is my second vehicle I've used it on. I pulled a very heavy converted boat trailer with my trike on it that weighed 4500#, no issues. Yes the manual button to apply the brakes is bluetooth dependent. There is an "alarm" that informs you when bluetooth is lost. For the record, I've only seen that alarm once, when I unplugged the trailer and the Bluetooth controller with the truck running.

The rest of the time, the brakes work just fine, even if you shutdown the app. Obviously you loose the "Panic" button with the app closed, but the trailer brakes still work just fine.

Having said all that, assuming you get the alarm, then accelerate going down a 7* grade ... your probably fine. If I ever got the alarm I would safely pull over and check every thing ... then get back on the road.You also get the same alarm if either plug loosens or comes out. All in all, I think this controller is pretty safe. Would I use it pulling a 7k# 26ft travel trailer, probably not but, I wouldn't pull that with a Ranger either. Just me, I've personally put "my towing limit" with the Ranger at 5K#.

 

[Harleyfever]

The need is derrived from one of two things, 1. being too lazy to remove some paneling and connect five physical wires, or 2. being too cheap to pay someone to do it for you.

I'm both 1 and 2, so I live without the AEB feature (I only connected 4 physical wires) since I've never had it on anything I've ever driven, I don't really miss it.

I am both 1 & 2

 

[Harleyfever]

I use the Curt Echo Bluetooth Controller. This is my second vehicle I've used it on. I pulled a very heavy converted boat trailer with my trike on it that weighed 4500#, no issues. Yes the manual button to apply the brakes is bluetooth dependent. There is an "alarm" that informs you when bluetooth is lost. For the record, I've only seen that alarm once, when I unplugged the trailer and the Bluetooth controller with the truck running.

The rest of the time, the brakes work just fine, even if you shutdown the app. Obviously you loose the "Panic" button with the app closed, but the trailer brakes still work just fine.

Having said all that, assuming you get the alarm, then accelerate going down a 7* grade ... your probably fine. If I ever got the alarm I would safely pull over and check every thing ... then get back on the road.You also get the same alarm if either plug loosens or comes out. All in all, I think this controller is pretty safe. Would I use it pulling a 7k# 26ft travel trailer, probably not but, I wouldn't pull that with a Ranger either. Just me, I've personally put "my towing limit" with the Ranger at 5K#.

Thanks that is reassuring. How about a 4100# 20ft trailer 25 with tongue?

 

[t4thfavor]

Thanks that is reassuring. How about a 4100# 20ft trailer 25 with tongue?

My trailer is over 33’ with tongue, drive within your abilities and you’ll be fine.

 

[2020FRL]

My trailer is over 33’ with tongue, drive within your abilities and you’ll be fine.

Basically ... What he said ... it's gonna kind of depend on where and how you drive ... around here we have lots of 10K mountains, not sure I'd pull the same trailers here that I would in say Kansas ... It also depends on how you drive ... if you like doing 100 mph with your hair on fire because you are trying to cram 7 days vacation into a 4 day box, then I wouldn't pull a trailer at all.

I'm retired, twice ... I can take two days to get to Texas or three, or four if I feel like it. I limit my pulling a trailer to between 60-65 mph ... just a comfy speed ... if something happens, I have a tad more time then if I was doing 75 or 80, to react.

When I had the "Beast" (an older F450 dually with a diesel, no creature comforts, but, it could pull a house) I would catch myself doing 80-85 ... in Utah ... the truck just really wanted to run and it didn't seem to know there was a trailer back there. I was pulling a 28' toy hauler .... weighed about 7.5K. I would have to slow back down and in an hour of so, I'd be doing 80 again. They only creature comfort that truck needed was cruise control. ... LOL.

 

[TimmyB]

...I limit my pulling a trailer to between 60-65 mph ... just a comfy speed ... if something happens, I have a tad more time then if I was doing 75 or 80, to react.

This is it, right here. Like you said, being "in a hurry" and "pulling a trailer" don't go together at all.

 

[HAMMERTIME]

My travel trailer is 21 ft, 25 BTT and 5500 lbs loaded. Using a Husky WDH. Pulls best at 60-65 on major Hwys but sweet spot is at 55 on secondary Hwys. Way more to look at as well.

 

[TechnicallyReal]

Will adding Bilstiens or other rear shocks help with the towing?

Anyone have experience with Curt's new bluetooth trailer brake system?

I put on Eibach rears specifically to help with bounce while towing. Made the truck a little better composed both with and without a trailer attached.

The Curt Echo has come up a whole bunch of times in the brake controller threads and it's controversial. I had one myself but have since switched to the RedArc controller that Ford blesses with their seal of approval (really all they did was package an additional module to use for braking indication rather than the brake pedal signal).

The Echo worked great but I switched to the RedArc because I thought I was having issues with the Echo when in fact my trailer brake wires had gotten pinched by the trailer's suspension and became intermittent. I was planning to get the RedArc eventually anyway.. the Echo was more of a temporary solution for me.

Anyway I would suggest avoiding anything other than those 2 specific options (RedArc Elite kit from Ford, or Curt Echo) because as far as I am aware, they are the only 2 brake controllers that work with Ford's AEB (automatic emergency braking) and ACC (adaptive cruise control) on this truck. I keep getting flack for saying it, but I feel that there's a real yet unnecessary risk created by installing something that doesn't work with AEB and ACC on this truck. You probably don't want to end up jackknifed on the highway just because something unexpectedly or randomly (or even falsely) triggered the truck to slam on the brakes without telling the trailer to do the same. Not to mention the safety of everyone around you on the road.

Ford should allow AEB and ACC to be turned off so that other brake controllers don't create this risk. Actually now that I'm writing this.. It probably can be turned off from the steering wheel an cluster menu system.. if it can, it's probably one of those things that's a pain in the ass to do and might need to be re-done on every start.

Related discussion here:
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...rake-controller-availability.3562/post-227718

 

[TimmyB]

The need is derrived from one of two things, 1. being too lazy to remove some paneling and connect five physical wires, or 2. being too cheap to pay someone to do it for you.

I'm both 1 and 2, so I live without the AEB feature (I only connected 4 physical wires) since I've never had it on anything I've ever driven, I don't really miss it.

I'm a bit confused. I just watched the etrailer.com install video on the RedArc controller that @TechnicallyReal mentioned above. They only showed the four wires to connect the harness. What is the fifth wire that you are referring to?

 

[t4thfavor]

I'm a bit confused. I just watched the etrailer.com install video on the RedArc controller that @TechnicallyReal mentioned above. They only showed the four wires to connect the harness. What is the fifth wire that you are referring to?

It’s the little controller box that goes in the headliner near the center brake light. It’s possible that they skip the purple/green stripe wire under the dash with those installs though.

 

[TechnicallyReal]

I'm a bit confused. I just watched the etrailer.com install video on the RedArc controller that @TechnicallyReal mentioned above. They only showed the four wires to connect the harness. What is the fifth wire that you are referring to?

The RedArc only comes with the extra module as part of Ford's kit, which stupidly wasn't available when the truck first came out. This AEB stuff only came to light after Ford finally released their Ford branded kit, catching everyone who already had a brake controller installed off guard.

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