I bought mine for around $289 from the dealership. Installed it the other weekend. Definitely wasn't fun pulling all the trim panels off to get to the 3rd brake light wires but I got the job done. Haven't towed anything yet.
I admire you and your ability to install that controller. I thought it’d be a plug and play situation since I had a tow package. Not for me!
I'm interested in a similar TT to what you're describing. Specifically, we're researching if the Ranger would be adequate to tow around the Keystone Bullet Crossfire 2200bh. It's a 21' box and 25' from tongue to bumper. UVW is 4126lbs, GVWR is 6,300lbs, and a dry hitch weight of 425lbs.
It’s a 170a alternator, should be fine for what gauge wire goes to the back as long as you’re not driving around with a dc fridge direct wired to the battery.
I’ve looked up here in Canada for an upgraded alternator and I was told it was “complicated” by an alternator shop because of the trucks systems? Has anyone found one? Wish it was higher too.
When you say direct wired to the battery are you talking about the truck or TT battery? The fridge on the unit I am buying is DC only with a 55 watt solar panel on the roof. Thanks.
I mean direct line to the truck battery. how many amps does the fridge pull? It should be in the documents for the TT.
If you are referring to the Curt Echo break controller I have a little bit of experience. Long story short, it was unusable in my experience due to how Ford sends the 12v power to the trailer. On previous vehicles the 12v output was always active. On the Ranger it’s not active till it recognizes a trailer. Yes, you can plug your trailer into the Echo and Echo into the trailer and finally get power. However, unless you’re one of the lucky ones...it’ll be hooked up in the reverse fashion and will not be set up properly. According to Curt, it’s got to be hooked and paired with the tow vehicle 1st, then the trailer to operate correctly. If hooked up trailer 1st then tow vehicle, it’s literally sending the signal the wrong way and will not control the trailers breaks. With many exhaustive phone calles to Curt to figure out this issue, it tuned out to be non compatible for me. You will know it’s paired wrong when on the application it always shows breaks, never shows breaks, or the break pressure never moves with applied pressure. I ended up giving in and wiring the Ford Redarc controller into the vehicle. I feel much better having a manual controller now and the ability to operate a the breaks manually without having to keep my phone open and the application up.
No, once it is installed it will self calibrate while you drive. You just need to set the brake bias once you hook up your trailer.
Got it! Ford wants to charge me 150, but it looks plug and play.
It's not plug and play at all. If it's the Ford one with the emergency brake module, it is quite involved.
Not quite plug and play. There is quite a bit of work involved to install. Involves removing several internal panels to route wiring to the center high mounted stop light at the back of the cab. Assembling connectors to said stop light. Installing two modules under dash and the control knob. The last of which requires drilling a hole in your selected location.
