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Alpharex PRO Review

Superdannyboy

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Just got my bulbs yesterday & installed them - my light output doesnt seem to be anywhere near what OP mentioned. I used these bulbs:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096TZM9QD?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

They've got good ratings, and it only took a slight modification of the dust cover to get them installed. I'm 90% sure they're all seated properly, but will be checking that tonight. With projector housings are they still supposed to be oriented at 9 & 3? or at 12 & 6? I've seen a bit of a mixed review on that part, everything else there seems to be a consensus on.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I honestly think most of the mixed reviews comes from confusing what part of the bulb faces the 9 &3 orientation.
I put the alpharex pros on the f150 and the cutoff line is as sharp as a blade.
Put them on my ranger and it's not at sharp, probably need to spin them around.
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theanswer3

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I honestly think most of the mixed reviews comes from confusing what part of the bulb faces the 9 &3 orientation.
I put the alpharex pros on the f150 and the cutoff line is as sharp as a blade.
Put them on my ranger and it's not at sharp, probably need to spin them around.
The pros have the exact same lenses as the luxx, so the cutoff should be similar. My pros have a very good cutoff line.
 

Deleted member 1634

So I didn't read through all 6.5 pages of this thread to know if anyone else has discovered this, but figured I'd throw it out there anyways. I have a 2019 XLT that I recently (this weekend) swapped out for the Pro's. Today is my first time driving it and when I got out to see if my DRL settings were working correctly I noticed it looked like this. Ambers across the board. I haven't decided if I like this or the standard white look or not, but all ambers is kind of what I wanted anyways. Matches up with all the other amber lights I have on the front.

IMG_20220523_062619860_HDR.jpg


Must be the way I have things setup in Forscan from the previous/stock headlights. The white bars do come on as normal with the parking lights, but that apparently gets overwritten once I put it in gear and the DRL setting is activated. And the turn signals do still work as designed, sequential and everything. Pretty interesting stuff!

Here's the other basic shots though. Low beams on with white fogs and then with yellow fogs.

IMG_20220523_061313058.jpg

IMG_20220523_061333102.jpg
 

Truthofval

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With these alpha rex pros, I just ordered a set of the exact same for some reason the black ones were way cheaper at the moment, I cannot find the exact lights you used online what's the biggest leds I can use in these and would you mind providing links or if you can link the lights you bought thank you for your time man!
 

MagneticRanger

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I am taking my truck into a shop next week to install a pair of these alpharex pros.

While I have the assemblies here at home I have removed the provided Halogen H7 bulbs and swapped in sets of Auxito H7 GF series LED bulbs...Im not sure they will be much to write about but have to start somewhere...may regret not looking at the GFM series....maybe a bit more powerful.

After reading through this thread I'm just wondering a few different things.

Did we ever get a consensus regarding DRL setup? I have the provided DRL harness that can be wired up...but is it needed if the DRL setting is turned off within the trucks own menu setting as shown in a previous response on this thread?

Does anyone have any further tips or regarding removal and reinstallation of the H7 bulbs on these assemblies when they are installed on the truck? Those spring clips are just a real treat.

Anyone that is using LED bulbs any tricks for making sure the bulb is installed at 9 and 3? I feel like I'm going blind but I cant really see the bulb orientation through the lense of the projector when installed inside the assembly.

Also I have not noticed anyone mention the instance of flickering ....did anyone have a need to also connect a resistor/decoder to help if that issue was present?
 


AvockAdoo

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I am taking my truck into a shop next week to install a pair of these alpharex pros.

While I have the assemblies here at home I have removed the provided Halogen H7 bulbs and swapped in sets of Auxito H7 GF series LED bulbs...Im not sure they will be much to write about but have to start somewhere...may regret not looking at the GFM series....maybe a bit more powerful.

After reading through this thread I'm just wondering a few different things.

Did we ever get a consensus regarding DRL setup? I have the provided DRL harness that can be wired up...but is it needed if the DRL setting is turned off within the trucks own menu setting as shown in a previous response on this thread?

Does anyone have any further tips or regarding removal and reinstallation of the H7 bulbs on these assemblies when they are installed on the truck? Those spring clips are just a real treat.

Anyone that is using LED bulbs any tricks for making sure the bulb is installed at 9 and 3? I feel like I'm going blind but I cant really see the bulb orientation through the lense of the projector when installed inside the assembly.

Also I have not noticed anyone mention the instance of flickering ....did anyone have a need to also connect a resistor/decoder to help if that issue was present?
I didnt have any flickering, but didnt have them installed long enough to see long term.

Also, depending on what they're charging you, it might be worth the DIY effort. I've swapped mine 5 times (long story with multiple failed Morimoto's) and ended with Lariats, but can do the full swap in about an hour now - 1st time took maybe 3 hours.

There is a detailed youtube video on everything - its time consuming, but there arent any steps that are "hard" just multiple screws.

Here's the video if interested, install starts around 8 minutes in and is exactly the same for the Alpharex's and the Morimotos (and any other brand you'd want to install for that matter).

(66) Morimoto XB LED Headlights THE BRIGHTEST Options Available for the 2019+ Ford Ranger - YouTube
 

MagneticRanger

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I didnt have any flickering, but didnt have them installed long enough to see long term.

Also, depending on what they're charging you, it might be worth the DIY effort. I've swapped mine 5 times (long story with multiple failed Morimoto's) and ended with Lariats, but can do the full swap in about an hour now - 1st time took maybe 3 hours.

There is a detailed youtube video on everything - its time consuming, but there arent any steps that are "hard" just multiple screws.

Here's the video if interested, install starts around 8 minutes in and is exactly the same for the Alpharex's and the Morimotos (and any other brand you'd want to install for that matter).

(66) Morimoto XB LED Headlights THE BRIGHTEST Options Available for the 2019+ Ford Ranger - YouTube

Hey thanks for the reply,

I've definitely checked out that video ...it's just a task that without shelter and the right tools to complete is something I'm not really into diy'ing myself.

But I do hear you....I had done this already last year with a set of GTR carbide assemblies that just didn't work out once installed and I got rinsed in labor going back and forth...well aware this could be happen yet again sadly.

Best I could find on information is that the bulbs I chose register in at 32 watts and just wasn't sure if that may be too low and trigger something with this truck...I will have to wait and see.

I wish I could of gone with the Lariats...but they are not available around here and the ones I have sourced seem to be in the $2k to $3k range for the pair....but definitely the smart play.
 

AvockAdoo

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Hey thanks for the reply,

I've definitely checked out that video ...it's just a task that without shelter and the right tools to complete is something I'm not really into diy'ing myself.

But I do hear you....I had done this already last year with a set of GTR carbide assemblies that just didn't work out once installed and I got rinsed in labor going back and forth...well aware this could be happen yet again sadly.

Best I could find on information is that the bulbs I chose register in at 32 watts and just wasn't sure if that may be too low and trigger something with this truck...I will have to wait and see.

I wish I could of gone with the Lariats...but they are not available around here and the ones I have sourced seem to be in the $2k to $3k range for the pair....but definitely the smart play.
It took me a while, but I ended up trading my brand new Morimoto's with somebody's 60k miles Lariats from the forum here. We both ended up happy, but financially I think he came out ahead a bit.

They can be had from eBay too (I'm sure you've looked) but again, they can be pretty hard to come by in good shape for a reasonable price. They're a pain to swap, but its actually a security feature too. I wish the taillights were at least half as hard as the headlights to swap out, then we'd have fewer members walking out to their trucks with the $2000 assemblies missing....

Good luck with the Alpharex's - they're a great looking light, I just couldnt get them to work exactly how I wanted, and the seal ended up failing & letting moisture in.
 

codestp202

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Question for you all-
I ran drop in LED's in my halogen housings and realized I was being a dick. I put back in halogens and am now shopping an upgrade.

I'm looking at the Luxx or the Pro's, not a fan of the Luxx startup sequence so I'm reading this thread about the Pro's.
It seems like you are all buying the Pro's then dropping in an H7 LED similar to the H11 Auxito's I was running in my halogen housings.

Can someone explain why this is acceptable to drop in LED's into these housings? Is it because they are LED housings same as the Luxx's but with a Halogen bulb versus dropping an LED into a reflector housing like I was doing? I don't want to go back to making the same mistake and running an LED bulb in a housing not designed for it.
Thanks!
 

Superdannyboy

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Question for you all-
I ran drop in LED's in my halogen housings and realized I was being a dick. I put back in halogens and am now shopping an upgrade.

I'm looking at the Luxx or the Pro's, not a fan of the Luxx startup sequence so I'm reading this thread about the Pro's.
It seems like you are all buying the Pro's then dropping in an H7 LED similar to the H11 Auxito's I was running in my halogen housings.

Can someone explain why this is acceptable to drop in LED's into these housings? Is it because they are LED housings same as the Luxx's but with a Halogen bulb versus dropping an LED into a reflector housing like I was doing? I don't want to go back to making the same mistake and running an LED bulb in a housing not designed for it.
Thanks!
It's because they are projector housings, which have a cutoff line. The OEM housing area reflector housings, which shine light everywhere.

The reason why is considered being a dick is because the light is thrown too high and in people's eyes, so projector housings can be aimed low enough to cut off light before it gets high enough to blind people. The higher your vehicle the more easier it is to blind people.
 

codestp202

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It's because they are projector housings, which have a cutoff line. The OEM housing area reflector housings, which shine light everywhere.

The reason why is considered being a dick is because the light is thrown too high and in people's eyes, so projector housings can be aimed low enough to cut off light before it gets high enough to blind people. The higher your vehicle the more easier it is to blind people.
Roger that, that's what I was hoping for. Thanks!
 

AvockAdoo

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Question for you all-
I ran drop in LED's in my halogen housings and realized I was being a dick. I put back in halogens and am now shopping an upgrade.

I'm looking at the Luxx or the Pro's, not a fan of the Luxx startup sequence so I'm reading this thread about the Pro's.
It seems like you are all buying the Pro's then dropping in an H7 LED similar to the H11 Auxito's I was running in my halogen housings.

Can someone explain why this is acceptable to drop in LED's into these housings? Is it because they are LED housings same as the Luxx's but with a Halogen bulb versus dropping an LED into a reflector housing like I was doing? I don't want to go back to making the same mistake and running an LED bulb in a housing not designed for it.
Thanks!
Technically speaking, they're still not compatible. The Pro's are still using halogen specific reflectors. Yes, they do have a projector and a cutoff line (which makes it so you're not blinding other drivers), but from a performance standpoint they dont benefit from drop in LEDs over a high-powered halogen bulb. The physics of how an LED specific housing bounces light and how a halogen one does are fundamentally different. There are only 2 or 3 LED drop in bulbs that outperform stock halogen bulbs, and there are NONE that outperform the highest output halogen bulbs, in terms of Lux thrown down the road. There's a thread on the enemy's website that explains all of this. Posts 1 & 2 cover it pretty in depth. For me, you just cant beat science.

That all being said, I am running drop in LED's in my (inferior) tacoma. I have the hikari ultra "eyes of megatron" that they talk about in the above link. Those ones mimic the actual size (and most importantly for focus, the thickness) of a halogen filament. From a scientific standpoint the focal point for a halogen reflector is infinitely small. The smaller (while maintaining brightness) the filament or light source is, the more focussed it will be, and the further down the road it will shine. I know that the high end halogen bulb would technically perform better than my drop ins, but I have a projector in the low beam so I'm not blinding others, and its still a big improvement over stock performance. And to be completely frank, I wanted my headlight color to match the LED strip on the side of my lights.

TL:DR; they're not compatible. The performance is still somewhat downgraded vs. running a bulb with a filament, but may still be better than stock.
 

AvockAdoo

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Question for you all-
I ran drop in LED's in my halogen housings and realized I was being a dick. I put back in halogens and am now shopping an upgrade.

I'm looking at the Luxx or the Pro's, not a fan of the Luxx startup sequence so I'm reading this thread about the Pro's.
It seems like you are all buying the Pro's then dropping in an H7 LED similar to the H11 Auxito's I was running in my halogen housings.

Can someone explain why this is acceptable to drop in LED's into these housings? Is it because they are LED housings same as the Luxx's but with a Halogen bulb versus dropping an LED into a reflector housing like I was doing? I don't want to go back to making the same mistake and running an LED bulb in a housing not designed for it.
Thanks!
I also want to add, thank you for stopping being a dick. So many forum members (and other a-holes with reflector only housings) run drop ins and blind others. The funniest part about it is that their down-road lighting is actually worse than when they were running halogens, and the uplight is limiting them from seeing further down the road.

Again, you cant beat science.
 

Superdannyboy

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Technically speaking, they're still not compatible. The Pro's are still using halogen specific reflectors. Yes, they do have a projector and a cutoff line (which makes it so you're not blinding other drivers), but from a performance standpoint they dont benefit from drop in LEDs over a high-powered halogen bulb. The physics of how an LED specific housing bounces light and how a halogen one does are fundamentally different. There are only 2 or 3 LED drop in bulbs that outperform stock halogen bulbs, and there are NONE that outperform the highest output halogen bulbs, in terms of Lux thrown down the road. There's a thread on the enemy's website that explains all of this. Posts 1 & 2 cover it pretty in depth. For me, you just cant beat science.

That all being said, I am running drop in LED's in my (inferior) tacoma. I have the hikari ultra "eyes of megatron" that they talk about in the above link. Those ones mimic the actual size (and most importantly for focus, the thickness) of a halogen filament. From a scientific standpoint the focal point for a halogen reflector is infinitely small. The smaller (while maintaining brightness) the filament or light source is, the more focussed it will be, and the further down the road it will shine. I know that the high end halogen bulb would technically perform better than my drop ins, but I have a projector in the low beam so I'm not blinding others, and its still a big improvement over stock performance. And to be completely frank, I wanted my headlight color to match the LED strip on the side of my lights.

TL:DR; they're not compatible. The performance is still somewhat downgraded vs. running a bulb with a filament, but may still be better than stock.
For most of us the pro's projector housings with LED bulbs is 10x better than halogens whether they are halogens in a reflector or projector housing.

And I also have the pro's in my f150 and put the eyes of Megatron bulbs which didn't last long and I replaced with much cheaper bulbs and I don't see a difference in "lumens" and they've lasted way longer.

Dropping in LEDs into the pro's is a very sweet upgrade for a few hundred bucks.
 

AvockAdoo

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For most of us the pro's projector housings with LED bulbs is 10x better than halogens whether they are halogens in a reflector or projector housing.

And I also have the pro's in my f150 and put the eyes of Megatron bulbs which didn't last long and I replaced with much cheaper bulbs and I don't see a difference in "lumens" and they've lasted way longer.

Dropping in LEDs into the pro's is a very sweet upgrade for a few hundred bucks.
Again, I'll say - anecdotal evidence of what you "feel" like is a moot point. It doesn't matter. Data is the only thing that can actually stand on its own two legs with this argument, and data doesn't lie. It might feel like they're brighter because the light reflected right down in front of your truck is brighter, but 40' out (where it really matters) most bulbs are BAD, and for brights its even worse.

Data doesn't lie, and I'm one to respect the results of controlled experiments done by experts - I'm not a lighting expert, so I trust the expertise of someone who is rather than a few random forum members who say "its brighter" with nothing to back it up other than how they feel.
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