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Ac problem

Shadowace

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Not very happy with this truck. My ac only blows cold air on drivers side but it don't even feel as cool as it should be. Seems like it does start of cool but then goes away. Been doing some research and found out about actuators etc . But it is usually the drivers side that remains warm . I'm not getting any clicking or anything so the one video I watched shows how the tracking inside the actuator fails , which make since. Except it causes drivers side to fail .Any suggestions would be appreciated. It's 2019 and I have no warranty left so I would like to repair myself I just want to make sure I'm diagnosing properly.
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airline tech

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There have been a few complaints on AC performance on here and getting the AC recharged has fixed the issue.

Now if you reference my thread below and have a scanner that can read the actuator PIDs, you can see the travel from 0-100%.

If you were to switch to manual mode and drive the temp to LO, does it make a difference? Both Sides

I think what is possibly happening is that the Freon is low, the Evap is freezing over and when in Auto Mode - the system is using the temp sensors and gives the driver’s side primary air in an attempt to satisfy the Humidity Temp Sensor (feedback)

HVAC / Climate Control- Issues - Operation - T-Shoot and Breakdown | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com
 

Jason B

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Try switching to MAX AC. When set to AC or Auto, there is always hot coolant in the heater core, even when in AC mode, so that the system can 'blend' hot and cold air to achieve set temp. MAX AC should cut off coolant flow to the heater core.
 


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Shadowace

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Already tried that.
 

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Try switching to MAX AC. When set to AC or Auto, there is always hot coolant in the heater core, even when in AC mode, so that the system can 'blend' hot and cold air to achieve set temp. MAX AC should cut off coolant flow to the heater core.
Your first sentence is Correct
There is always coolant flow through the heater core. (Always)

Max AC:
The Air Inlet Door (Closes) - (Recirculation-Mode) - The Blower Motor speed is automatically commanded to HIGH, but can be manually adj to a lower setting and still remain in Max AC Mode. The Temperature is automatically set to full LO (Cold)

So, all Max AC is just a (1) button selection to drive the temps to LO and blower to (HI) and it also closes the Air Inlet door. It does not stop flow through the heater core.

As someone mentioned - get a thermometer in the vent or a digital type and ref this:

AC:
In Manual Mode - Drive the Temp (LO) and you should see a low Panel temperature reading, the actual reading will vary due to the ambient temp and humidity.
Some basic temp outputs for Ref:
70 Deg Day - Output Temp 35-40 Deg
80 Deg Day - Output Temp 45-50 Deg
100 Deg Day - Output Temp 55-60 Deg
The basic average is 35 to 40 Deg lower than the Ambient (Outside Temp)

If this is not what your readings are (approx)
1. Then the temp door is not driving to (100%) - LO
2. Clogged Cabin Filter
3. Clogged Condensate Drain
4. Clogged Condenser (leaves between the condenser & radiator)
5. Faulty Temp Sensor or Humidity Temp Sensor (feedback of temp)
6. Items 2, 3 and 4 - can cause the Evap Core to Ice Over along with low freon level.

Unless you hook up a scanner that can see the actuator PID's movement as well as the temp of the evap core it's hard to see what is actually happening but since you are not getting any clicking from the actuators, I would focus on getting the Freon Charge level checked first and then dig deeper if that is good.
But you can also do the visual on the condenser and cabin filter, the condensate drain is a pain to access on the ranger and its drip point (on top of the bell housing) makes it difficult to note (is it draining)
 
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Shadowace

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I have seen water dripping down as you would on a humid day with the ac on .I will check cabin filter later.
 
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Shadowace

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Checked the cabin filter . It was bad but still only has ac on drivers side . I also checked and when I change temp. It goes from cold to hot which makes me believe it's not the blend door actuator .
It's booked in Friday to have the AC.recharged .I'm opening that's all it needs .
 

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One other thing you can do is get the truck in a quiet spot , and select the AC button off then on, do you hear the AC clutch engage when turned on?
Within 1 second your should hear the clutch engage (click)
 
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Shadowace

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They just put a new compressor in it about 8 months ago.
 

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As soon as I read it's a 2019 I knew it was the blend door. Had mine (2019) replaced in June as a 'warranty' service. I believe there is a TSB to address this. It's related to the blend door failing in the heat/AC system.
 
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Shadowace

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I'm not sure it is the blend door now . It does blend the heat / Ac it does change the temp. Also what I've read always talks about the drivers side not blowing cold but mines the opposite. Sometimes I think the old 80 s system would be better. Less complicated less to go wrong . Just have to get used to passenger and driver having the same temp.
 

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Are both driver and passenger side temperatures set the same? Are they both at Low?
 
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Shadowace

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