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3d Printer Discussion

Markubis

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I've been using 3d printers since 2008. My work had a Dimension Elite that I used constantly for 10 y3ars...a workhorse. The printers nowadays have all of the features of that 30k printers and I love how far they've come.
My new company just bought a Prusa and i have been using that for the past few weeks. It has great features on it. A couple of coworkers have the Bambu and they are loving theirs as well.

One feature to look for is an enclosed print area. Printing plastic can be finicky if the Temps fluctuate. If you're in a controlled environment then it's not so bad. Printing resolution was always important to me as well. The finer, the better.
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Colo_Ranger

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IMG_3944.webp
IMG_3942.webp
IMG_3943.webp


today’s project is designing a 5mm spacer to see what I need to stop the rubbing with the new tires. I’ll use these to test fit, then have them made at SendCutSend. I will also get extended studs and longer lugs so that I’ll have full thread engagement.

I’ve made these lug and hub centric.
 
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Colo_Ranger

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Also, these are not to be added on top of the bolt on spacers, I was using those as a guide for my measurements.
 

Cmar

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Nice, it sure beats giving them a hand made wooden pattern like you would have to have made 20 years ago. You should just be able to give them the 3mf file or the sCAD file and they can just laser cut it for you.
 
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Colo_Ranger

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Nice, it sure beats giving them a hand made wooden pattern like you would have to have made 20 years ago. You should just be able to give them the 3mf file or the sCAD file and they can just laser cut it for you.

That's exactly the plan. Send Cut Send will take a variety of files and give a price right at the upload.
 


P-38Ranger

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I love my Prusa, an older MK3s+. I am a mechanical engineer, so design is easy for me. I also do FIRST robotics and have access to the Bambu's that schools are buying. Twice as fast as my older printer, but there has not been a vehicle or house hold problem that fixing it wasn't involve.
 

Cmar

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I love my Prusa, an older MK3s+. I am a mechanical engineer, so design is easy for me. I also do FIRST robotics and have access to the Bambu's that schools are buying. Twice as fast as my older printer, but there has not been a vehicle or house hold problem that fixing it wasn't involve.
Very true, printers like the Bamboo and Creality K1 series may be faster than what I have, but I don't believe that the actual print quality is much if any better. You just have to wait longer to get the finished product.
 
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Colo_Ranger

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I have really started to learn CAD. Its not intuitive for me, so its taking a lot of work. After I modified my bumper, my license plate no longer fits in the OE location. I have been working on a new design to mount it to the tailgate. There is a bolt on the bottom.

SCR-20260127-pvxe.webp


This is what I have so far. I am test printing my 3rd piece to make sure it fits. If this works, I will print the whole thing in PETG before jumping over to ASA. It will be printed at 100% infill, so it will be one solid piece.
 
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Final design. Currently printing the final test fit piece. As long as everything works, I will switch to ASA and print at 100% infill. I am really happy with how this has turned out.
 

Cmar

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Looks good. I've recently made a few things. My new caravan was a new old stock (2023) Adria and was missing a cover for the Truma gas / electric hot water / floor level heating outside flue. Where we live it's kind of necessary, as mud wasps abound this time of year and build in any empty hole. Last thing I want is the exgaust flue plugged up with rock hard mud. I found on line a file for an exact replica of the original even down to the German lettering for open / close. Fits a treat!
I also made up a two into one manifold for the twin waste outlets so I can run them into one hose drain, and a little clip to hold the AlKo big foot into a better position when you wind it down, as well as some spare cupboard strikers / plates, and a cap for the water tank that incorporates a hose snap fitting, to fill the tank without having to stand there with a hose. All out of PLA+ all seem to work well!
 

ControlNode

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SCR-20260127-sdxa.webp


Final design. Currently printing the final test fit piece. As long as everything works, I will switch to ASA and print at 100% infill. I am really happy with how this has turned out.
Will there be lights on the bumper that shine upward enough to illuminate the plate mounted on the tailgate?
 
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Colo_Ranger

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Will there be lights on the bumper that shine upward enough to illuminate the plate mounted on the tailgate?
I’m going to run a light down. I forgot about that and will need a slight addition to the design.
 
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Colo_Ranger

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I’m going to run a light down. I forgot about that and will need a slight addition to the design.
Basically, I’ll wire a LED light to the OE wiring, run it up the bottom of this so it shines from the top. More to come.
 

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I am a retired engineer and I’ve been working on mechanical designs in CAD for years. I really like a 50% fill versus 100% for the strength it gives. I have not done a lot of ASA, I prefer ABS for my external parts.
The other key thing to do is perimeters. Most perimeters are 2 by default. I find that 4 to 5 makes the parts stronger, especially the holes.
It’s hard to see why this one view but a few corner radius also make a strong
 
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Colo_Ranger

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I am a retired engineer and I’ve been working on mechanical designs in CAD for years. I really like a 50% fill versus 100% for the strength it gives. I have not done a lot of ASA, I prefer ABS for my external parts.
The other key thing to do is perimeters. Most perimeters are 2 by default. I find that 4 to 5 makes the parts stronger, especially the holes.
It’s hard to see why this one view but a few corner radius also make a strong

I appreciate the advice. I will print one with 100% and one with 50% and see what I think of them. I need to run to ACE Hardware for a bolt for the final test fit...

I definitely up the perimeters during these kinds of prints, 4-5 is my go to. Every edge on this piece has a fillet of 1mm so there will be no hard corners.
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