Back again with another problem **SHOCKER**

[Ed Kennedy]

Getting a coolant system not warming up enough check engine light. Just replaced the sensor a couple months ago, but my ignorant @$$ used an aftermarket sensor so I'm guessing I need a Ford sensor. Temp looks fine and heat works fine. Will probably change the thermostat anyway. Ford sucks for making everything be a required Ford part. And based on the legislation about this, every company is about to do the same, putting your neighborhood parts store out of business.

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[21rangerCactus]

It doesn't require a ford part. Just requires a part that works. I went through 3 crank position sensors from auto zone before one finally worked on a 2006 civic.

I'm pretty sure whoever makes the part for Ford also makes it for aftermarket companies.

 

[airline tech]

ok the code is more of a time-based rationality code - how quickly it reaches operating temperature via Cold Start Monitor - if it picks up (taking longer than normal) the P0128 code sets -and or P0125 sets most common reason - sticking open T-Stat.

Which sensor did you replace CHT or ECT?

 

[OCL]

It doesn't require a ford part. Just requires a part that works. I went through 3 crank position sensors from auto zone before one finally worked on a 2006 civic.

I'm pretty sure whoever makes the part for Ford also makes it for aftermarket companies.

This is true. Not always though.

I bought an "aftermarket" EGR sensor/valve that I bought from Amazon. It is EXACTLY the Ford OEM part with the Ford markings blocked off. I could scratch off the markings to reveal the "Ford" logo. Made in the same factory in Thailand I believe.

I have an older Ford Van that I've been buying parts for and most parts are available aftermarket from Doorman, Pioneer, Duralast (Autozone), or Motorcraft. The Motorcraft are always the priciest ones of course.

 

[Stevedbvik1]

Getting a coolant system not warming up enough check engine light. Just replaced the sensor a couple months ago, but my ignorant @$$ used an aftermarket sensor so I'm guessing I need a Ford sensor. Temp looks fine and heat works fine. Will probably change the thermostat anyway. Ford sucks for making everything be a required Ford part. And based on the legislation about this, every company is about to do the same, putting your neighborhood parts store out of business.

Neighborhood parts stores should go out of business if the parts they’re selling don’t work.How is that Ford’s fault?

 

[Ed Kennedy]

Design patents prevent stores from being able to provide parts. OEM parts are the only ones you'd get for more things.

 

[Ed Kennedy]

Whichever one is at the back of the engine and hard to get to. If fixed it last time but I also bought a Thermostat then just in case, so I'll throw it on and see what happens.

 

[ScarzRanger21(2.0)]

Design patents prevent stores from being able to provide parts. OEM parts are the only ones you'd get for more things.

While I do agree that some aftermarket parts (cheap Chinese knockoffs) aren’t as good as OEM products, that’s generally not the case. As another user stated, if auto stores sold faulty parts all the time, they wouldn’t be in business. The only thing patents do is restrict manufacturers from creating a product that’s an exact replica of a genuine Ford part. Reputable manufacturers often use the same production lines, though the final product may look slightly different do to design patents.

Two things I would suggest. 1) If you’re buying an aftermarket part and it seems WAY too cheap, that’s your first red flag. 2) Check for CAPA certification stamps, UL listings, ect. on whatever product you’re buying. These parts have been tested and verified to meet or exceed OEM quality and they usually come with warranties.

Ford doesn’t “require” that everything be a genuine Ford part, there’s hundreds of aftermarket products that are available. You just need to know what you’re buying and do some research to verify the seller and their quality. I’ve been in the same boat that you’re in, I didn’t blame Ford for that. I blamed myself for not doing my homework and buying a cheap knockoff part that ended up failing a month later.

 

[Stevedbvik1]

My response to customers when they found crazy cheap aftermarket parts was to tell them that they should have bought 2 ( or 3 ).

 

[airline tech]

Whichever one is at the back of the engine and hard to get to. If fixed it last time but I also bought a Thermostat then just in case, so I'll throw it on and see what happens.

I will post the location pics when I get some time but if this was upper near the head then it was the CHT and is not the correct sensor- the ECT drives the code as well as the temp indicator on the IPC - if we are only looking at primary signal ford makes it confusing in the manuals , but the CHT is only a rationality sensor, a back up fail safe to the ECT and mainly is the monitor for an event of coolant loss - as the CHT is a dry bay sensor vs liquid touch sensor of the ECT, once I dug deep into it - I determined this to be the correct operation vs the manual vague description and leads you to believe that the CHT drives the temp display- this is incorrect information- the ECT is located in the RH wheel well - if I recall correctly

 

[Ed Kennedy]

Had to go through the wheel well and it was in a location that required me to buy a special rachet to get it out. It was a booger until I got the tool.

 

[Ed Kennedy]

I changed out the thermostat today and it seems to be fixed. I noticed the temp gauge would drop just a hair and once I changed the thermostat (which is also in a stupid location) temp came up a hair and held. We'll see what light comes on next. It's like a disco ball with this thing.

 

[Glocker]

I'm going to echo what other's have said - you don't have to have the Ford parts, you just need a properly manufactured part. The ECU and BCM only read voltages/amps and don't know a Ford part from any other. If a sensor doesn't output the correct voltage and amps, or is broken to begin with, it won't work. Ford parts don't have some magic electronic key that other parts companies don't have, that the truck can read to allow the part to work.

 

[Ed Kennedy]

I'm going to echo what other's have said - you don't have to have the Ford parts, you just need a properly manufactured part. The ECU and BCM only read voltages/amps and don't know a Ford part from any other. If a sensor doesn't output the correct voltage and amps, or is broken to begin with, it won't work. Ford parts don't have some magic electronic key that other parts companies don't have, that the truck can read to allow the part to work.

I'll give examples, I tried multiple aftermarket speed sensors and none worked, only the Ford would. Also, on a Lincoln (Ford product) I tried multiple aftermarket wheel bearing hubs, only the Ford worked. I don't buy stuff off the internet that's cheapest ever, learned that lesson years ago. But Standard, Duralast, Napa, etc aren't working on things. Now, a thermostat or something like that, they work. Tail light assembly worked. So it depends on what the part is. I've had one other sensor that only Ford worked but can't remember the exact one. Got a Ford mechanic friend who said it's more and more each model change.

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