talked with my dealers service manager today about the direct injection

MTB-BRUH

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Logically.. that made sense for carburetor motors. Was the guy that told you this older than 30?

For a turbo motor, does this makes sense? Keeping your foot in the throttle means turbo boost, which results in blow by, which creates gunk that ends up in the pcv system, which exaggerates carbon issues.
I was thinking the same thing
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Hi Phil,
It answers a lot, thanks. The fresh-eyes procedure you have for dealing with cost overruns sounds pretty creative. I know from past experience that those issues can be difficult to resolve.
There have been threads here that the oil benefits intake valve recession.
That's an interesting suggestion. My first thought was that I hope the designers aren't depending on oil in the crankcase gasses as a defense against valve and valve seat seat wear. I assume they probably are not and have designed the valves and seats to be robust on their own, but even so, any benefit of this type would have to be substantiated by Ford after tearing down engines run with and without oil in the returned gasses, otherwise it's just as much of a guess as statements about catch cans helping.

Overall, I agree with you on mods. The catch can is actually the only mod I have done or am planning to do other than a few purely aesthetic things. I have added air bags to the rear suspension, but I don't really consider that a "mod" as they are only used to level the truck and return the ride back to normal when we have our 1000-lb. camper on the back. They are deflated when the camper is off the truck.
 
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he was in fact telling me it was good for the turbo itself to get your foot into it .(I think he was about 45 lol ) I was not like having a fact finding investigation. just talking, guy seemed cool .I plan on talking with him for 3/36 so again. Just passing it along. seems to me there's a shit load of Eco boost on the road. he must know more than most working on them all day!!
 
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So, how is not "driving like a granny" going to help with keeping the backs of the intake valves cleaner? It's direct injection, so you are not getting fuel detergents passing across the backs of the intake valves. Also, driving it more aggressively is not going to make the PCV valve and baffle plate somehow magically more efficient. Many people have experienced some type of PCV valve failure in an ecoboost engine (and I am one of those people), and harder driving will result in more pressure, more frequently, and the leaky PCV valve will not improve under those conditions. Moreover, blow-by, resulting in vaporized oil entering the combustion chamber along with the air-fuel mixture, reduces the fuel's capacity to resist detonation under compression. That is why you read about blow-by oil reducing the fuel's octane rating. The ECU can correct for some pre-ignition, but it can only predict and prevent so much.

Unless I am missing something, his answer shows a lack of knowledge and experience with a direct injection engine with forced induction. Due to my recent PCV failure and resultant catastrophic engine damage, I will be replacing my PCV valve and baffle plate with upgraded components from Radium Engineering. I do not (currently) plan to install a catch can.

I am a bit reluctant to trust the word of unknown people at a dealership. On one visit, you can talk to a tech that seems super knowledgeable, and feel lucky to have them work on your car. But, on a subsequent visit, you can talk to another tech at the same shop, and you can hear him mention things that you know are absolutely false. It's like any other profession -- you have about 20 percent of the people who are actually good at their jobs, and the remaining 80 percent of people are just "waiting for the bus" by putting their time in so that they can get paid. The unknown, and luck of the draw, always makes me nervous. Vehicles are expensive, and we need them to function reliably and on a daily basis.

Disclaimer: I am not trying to start any arguments, and I am not even remotely claiming or implying that I am an expert. If any of you have more knowledge and experience than I have, then cool! Let's discuss it and I'll learn better for next time. I have a blunt way of typing out my thoughts, so if any of it reads as argumentative, I didn't intend it to be that way.
 

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Edit: The catastrophic engine failure was in my 2015 Focus ST. I was leaving work and a detonation cracked the piston in cylinder #2. That engine still made it 34 miles home! I'm definitely going to miss that car, but I still love my Ranger.
 


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Edit: The catastrophic engine failure was in my 2015 Focus ST. I was leaving work and a detonation cracked the piston in cylinder #2. That engine still made it 34 miles home! I'm definitely going to miss that car, but I still love my Ranger.
dam dude, you bought another ford with a 2.3 you have more guts than I !! I traded a Tacoma because the way it shifted never mind blowing pistons!! I enjoy this truck. hoping for the best!!
 

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Quick question.... I have put catch cans on many of my vehicles but have been hesitant to put one on this Ranger. First EcoBoost and have no idea of reliability so I don't want to void the warranty. I am still learning this engine....

I promise, I am NOT trying to start a religious argument about the benefits of a catch can. But I am curious about this part on the engine -- this is indicated as a separator, comes from the factory and am wondering what it does differently than a catch can.

Separator
K2GZ-6A785-A


Please -- I am not trying to argue for or against a catch can. I'm just wondering what this part is and what it does DIFFERENTLY than a catch can.

Thanks guys!
 

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That's the baffle plate that works in conjunction with the PCV valve. Your ranger already has it.
 

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Thanks Steve... stupid question, but what does the baffle plate do?
 

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Told you it was stupid question -- got this off another website:

"Engines create oil vapor from the crankcase and cylinder head that is usually recycled back through the air intake system. This vapor can create a buildup of carbon deposits on the intake valve that can reduce engine performance.

Additionally, the oil vapor can accumulate on the intake hoses, turbocharger, intercooler, and intake tract over a period of time slowing airflow thereby reducing performance. For optimized engine performance, the oil should be removed from the vapor before it reaches the engine’s intake system.

The baffle surface area allows more crankcase vent vapor to be trapped and remain in the crankcase where it belongs. Additionally the route the oil vapor takes on its way to the intake manifold is significantly increased through the baffles resulting in an increase of deflection areas. At each deflection point, additional oil is removed from the vapor. This part is a must for high boost, high performance applications."


Then I watched some YouTube videos and it definitely captures oil and puts it back into the crankcase. It seems to act as an initial catch can. So installing another catch can is double protection.

Again, Steve, thanks for the answer!
 

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Also note, as I said earlier in the thread, that the vaporized oil will make the air-fuel mixture more susceptible to detonation under compression, so that increases the risk of knocking or even LSPI. That's one thing that the article (that you quoted) is missing.
 

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So, how is not "driving like a granny" going to help with keeping the backs of the intake valves cleaner?
Hi Steve,
I have wondered about this myself. All I can say is that from what I've read (just random reading, not anything Ford has published), there's a temperature range which is more conducive to formation of deposits. If the valves run hot enough, then the deposits don't form as fast. OTOH, running the engine at very high output will generate a lot more crankcase gasses, which goes in the wrong direction. There's probably an optimum point where the valves are running hot enough to slow deposit formation but where you're not pushing the engine so hard that you're cancelling out that advantage with extra blow-by. The worst case seems to be stop-and-go driving where you get periodic bursts of turbo activity when most of the time the valves are running cooler. Note: this is just what I've seen reading various things, none of which are from actual engine designers, to take it all with a few grains of salt ;)
 

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It seems to act as an initial catch can. So installing another catch can is double protection.
True, but it's more than just double protection, it's more effective for a few additional reasons. (NOTE: I'm also not trying to extend the religious argument, this is just technical stuff about how the cans work, not whether they solve a long-term problem or not in the specific case of the Ranger.)

The first reason they are more effective is that the better ones contain much more surface area for aerosolized oil to come in contact with and coalesce onto. In fact, in some other industries, what we call "catch cans" are often called coalescing filters. Some have a fibrous mesh filter, some have a microporous bronze filter, and some have fine metal screens. Those are all designed to provide a much larger effective surface area for aerosol oil droplets to coalesce onto than a simple baffle.

The second reason they will catch more oil is that they can be placed in a location which is cooler than the engine block where the baffle is located. This also helps with coalescing the aerosolized oil.

So the baffle is a good first step, and may well be one of the reasons why the stock 2.3L EB seems to have fewer problems than older DI VWs and BMWs, but it definitely doesn't capture all of the oil out of the crankcase gasses.
 
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When I had my 2011 F-150 3.5 Ecobeast on an open road after every fill up I would put the pedal to the floor for about 5 seconds.

I think it helped to keep the engine cleaner if you went by the big cloud of smoke it would belch. This motor doesn't seem to do the same thing.
 

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The Radium baffle plate and PCV valve are being delivered tomorrow. I'm not sure if I'll install it when it arrives, or if I'll wait until the weekend, but it's going on there ASAP. I'm going to take a ton of pictures, partly because Radium hasn't had an opportunity to install it on one of our trucks, but I will also post all of that stuff here for everybody else to check out.

Do any of you have opinions on doing a PCV and possibly EGR delete?
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