NotBudule2
Well-Known Member
Still curious as to what the dealerships do or would do if they saw this on routine maintenance, does the mechanic really want to replace the whole damn clutch or does he just replace the hose ?
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?Basics the swap would need.
Using the 24 Ranger 2.3 (Wiring Diagram) for Cooling Fan Control
1. A dual fan assembly and a way to mount the assembly
2. (2ea) relays added and wired in to power the fans with 80-Amp fused power, so the addition of a fuse block and a relay center.
3. A separate fuse for (Relay Coil) Power 20-Amp
4. Reprogram the PCM to change it from pulsing ground to the clutch (fan) to the dual fan set-up.
The fans would have to have a controller incorporated into them.
5. The (Various Inputs) - Engine Temp, AC Clutch etc would already be in the PCM
Reprograming the PCM would be the biggest hurdle with this.
As both fans would always be HOT and running, but the PCM & Fan Controller would be controlling the speed they are turning
Being that Ford does not produce the hose separately they MUST replace the assembly as that is the only way for them to get it and plus there is NO PROCEDURE in the manuals for them to only replace the support tube/hose.Still curious as to what the dealerships do or would do if they saw this on routine maintenance, does the mechanic really want to replace the whole damn clutch or does he just replace the hose ?
Ford has several key areas that have other "ridiculous garbage designs." The 5G Ranger had such promise, but Ford chose to cut corners in key areas.What a ridiculous design Ford used for this, garbage actually.
good to know. Since I did buy my truck used. Are there any other areas I should be looking at to check for wear or age? The truck has 51k miles and was owned in Arizona, so not much rust or road salt issues. I’ve been a Ford owner all my life and not afraid to get my hand dirty with maintenance.Ford has several key areas that have other "ridiculous garbage designs." The 5G Ranger had such promise, but Ford chose to cut corners in key areas.
It may be just the angle of the pic (as taken) but it appears the hose is rather short (In the first pic) The hose should be longer than the (OE) that had the molded shape.Just spotted the issue on my 2020. I’ve only have the truck for a little over a week but still, during a peek under the hood it was spotted, busted the write up on this thread to make the fix.
What a ridiculous design Ford used for this, garbage actually.
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thanks! I bought a 10 pack of hose clamps, so I’ll swap another one where the spring clamp is. Appreciate the help.I'd change the clamps around as well. There is a pull on the engine end of the hose that does not exist on the clutch sensor end. In fact. I'd ditch the spring clamp. (it was previously on the clutch end of the hose from the factory)
Thank you. I ended up making my hose about an inch longer than the OEM broken one I removed. I did but about 2 feet of hose though, should I cut a longer piece and refit it? I had my wife start the truck while I watched this replacement setup and it doesn’t move much. Don’t know if that’s a good thing though.It may be just the angle of the pic (as taken) but it appears the hose is rather short (In the first pic) The hose should be longer than the (OE) that had the molded shape.
So, a longer hose will pull it (UP) away from the pully.
That module will flex some and as viewed (as you are standing) in front of the truck - rotates C/W, so if the pic (is accurate) the hose could easily pull down on the pully.
Just wanted to point this out
Example: