2019 Ranger Lariat stuck in limp mode

[Hamburglar]

Hello;

I have been spending a lot of time reading as many threads in this forum as possible to help with my issue. I am finally at wits end for the moment and looking for some guidance.

2019 Ford Ranger Lariat at 138k miles. I have been in the process of back and forth drives between Michigan and Nevada to finish my relocation to Michigan. During the last drive to Nevada a solid check engine light came on with a P0301 without any symptoms. Because I was in the middle of a trip across country with just a gig bag of tools I pulled the plugs and checked them, everything looked good. I swapped 1 & 3 COPs just to see if I had a week COP and there was no issue. Still had P0301, solid CEL, but no running symptoms. I had a tight schedule to get back for work, so I drop with the CEL to finish the trip to NV, spent a week in NV driving around without issue other than the CEL, and then on the trip back to MI, at highway speeds the truck started bucking and I had a flashing CEL. Stopping in Wyoming I found that I now had a P0301, P0302, and P0300. Again, checking all of the plugs and swapping the COPs on the side of the road everything looked fine and swapping the COPs around net no changes. I was stuck having to get home so I drove with the truck bucking at low speeds, but at higher speeds it seemed to smooth out. Just shy of getting home the truck went into limp mode and I barely made it home.

I am stuck without my OTC Gensys and most of my tools where I am at now so I have had to do most with basic hand tools and a cheap OBD2 scanner that at most will grab freeze frame data, so I have no live data for checking.

All COPs and spark plugs have been replaced.
All the plugs that came out looked to have normal markings with nothing glaring.
1 & 2 did smell strong of fuel from not firing.
No signs of water in the plug valleys or any rust/corrosion

Noticed that the fan clutch had broken its position tube and two wires had worn through and grounded out.
Replaced the fan clutch and rebuilt the wire harness

Replaced the fuel in tank lifter pump assembly

At this point now I received a code P2282 for air leak between throttle body and Intake Valve; and when just moving the truck forward and back I lost brake assist as though there was a vacuum loss.

No external sucking leaks heard and checked the normal areas with some starting fluid with no RPM change showing anything being sucked in.

Replaced the Throttle Body and the P2282 code is gone but I am still getting P0301, P0302, and P0300.

Really looking for some guidance. Currently life has me unable to afford just running it down to a shop, any warranty is long past gone, and I am really limited on diagnostic equipment at the moment.

What are areas that I should be focusing on
What next steps does any have as recommendation

I have combed this site and have checked about as much as I can based on other peoples issues.

Attached are screenshots of the freeze frame data.

Thanks for anything at this point.

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[RangerBill]

Hello;

I have been spending a lot of time reading as many threads in this forum as possible to help with my issue. I am finally at wits end for the moment and looking for some guidance.

2019 Ford Ranger Lariat at 138k miles. I have been in the process of back and forth drives between Michigan and Nevada to finish my relocation to Michigan. During the last drive to Nevada a solid check engine light came on with a P0301 without any symptoms. Because I was in the middle of a trip across country with just a gig bag of tools I pulled the plugs and checked them, everything looked good. I swapped 1 & 3 COPs just to see if I had a week COP and there was no issue. Still had P0301, solid CEL, but no running symptoms. I had a tight schedule to get back for work, so I drop with the CEL to finish the trip to NV, spent a week in NV driving around without issue other than the CEL, and then on the trip back to MI, at highway speeds the truck started bucking and I had a flashing CEL. Stopping in Wyoming I found that I now had a P0301, P0302, and P0300. Again, checking all of the plugs and swapping the COPs on the side of the road everything looked fine and swapping the COPs around net no changes. I was stuck having to get home so I drove with the truck bucking at low speeds, but at higher speeds it seemed to smooth out. Just shy of getting home the truck went into limp mode and I barely made it home.

I am stuck without my OTC Gensys and most of my tools where I am at now so I have had to do most with basic hand tools and a cheap OBD2 scanner that at most will grab freeze frame data, so I have no live data for checking.

All COPs and spark plugs have been replaced.
All the plugs that came out looked to have normal markings with nothing glaring.
1 & 2 did smell strong of fuel from not firing.
No signs of water in the plug valleys or any rust/corrosion

Noticed that the fan clutch had broken its position tube and two wires had worn through and grounded out.
Replaced the fan clutch and rebuilt the wire harness

Replaced the fuel in tank lifter pump assembly

At this point now I received a code P2282 for air leak between throttle body and Intake Valve; and when just moving the truck forward and back I lost brake assist as though there was a vacuum loss.

No external sucking leaks heard and checked the normal areas with some starting fluid with no RPM change showing anything being sucked in.

Replaced the Throttle Body and the P2282 code is gone but I am still getting P0301, P0302, and P0300.

Really looking for some guidance. Currently life has me unable to afford just running it down to a shop, any warranty is long past gone, and I am really limited on diagnostic equipment at the moment.

What are areas that I should be focusing on
What next steps does any have as recommendation

I have combed this site and have checked about as much as I can based on other peoples issues.

Attached are screenshots of the freeze frame data.

Thanks for anything at this point.

Since you have replaced the spark plugs and the coil over plugs, I would look to make sure that the fuel injectors for cylinders 1 and 2 are working. You may want to check the connector to the PCM to make sure there is no corrosion or partially disconnected pins in the connector.

 

[airline tech]

Ref: Posted PID's
The ones that stand out
Note: These were taken after (5-Seconds) of engine run time
Was this a - True Cold Engine?
As some PID's stand out

ECT = 100 Deg - after only 5 seconds of running while all others
IAT11=37, IAT12 = 43 and Ambient = 36, so either the engine was still slightly warm or the ECT is not reporting correct temp.
On a true cold engine all sensors should match within a few degrees.
Not shown is the CHT on your PIDs

Engine RPM - 1203 RPM is rather high, need to see what it is when the engine is warm, a higher RPM than normal can be a sign of bad injector and PCM compensating for it, same goes for a vacuum leak.
But this was taken only 5 seconds after start-up, and you are still in (open loop)
Normal Idle RPM - Engine @ Op Temp = around 900RPM


It needs a Relative Compression & Power Balance Test to check Fuel Injectors
This test will disable each injector, and you note the Fuel Press Drop and RPM Drop
The Firing Order = 1-3-4-2
I suspect either Cyl is bleeding over to the other generating both cylinder misfires.
If this was circuit related you would have injector circuit codes, but however the scan tool you have may not pick up the enhanced code

Relative Compression Test - Will show if you have a compression loss issue in the cylinder it uses starter current draw as a measurement while cranking, if a cylinder has low compression it will display as a (% Difference)

Power Balance Test - Wil show a injector issue as you disable the injector for each cylinder you note how much (initial=RPM) drop you see, the cylinder with a low RPM drop indicates a possible bad injector.

So, if the Relative Compression test good, and you have replaced the plugs and cops
(Including the BOOTS?)
Then all that is left is the injector itself or control circuit wiring for the Coils or Injectors.

To test the Injectors (Ohm Test) Internal - Pin to Pin should be between 11-18 Ohms and should be fairly equal between the 4.

There is 1ea (Inline) connector between the PCM and the injectors and that is C1019
You may try disconnecting - inspect & clean and reseat.

It is a 16 Cavity connector, and it is near the HP Fuel Pump on the driver's side of the engine.

Due to limited access to the actual injector connectors as I would actually have to physically check - I believe they are buried so to Ohm them out it would be easier to use the C1019 connector that is accessible.

Male Side of the Connector - Feeds the Injectors
Female Side feeds the PCM

To Ohm the injectors: Ohms Scale & Pin to Pin (Male Side)

#1: Pin # 1 (Green/Blue) & Pin# 9 (Yellow/Blue)

#2: Pin# 4 (Grey/Yellow) & Pin # 12 (Blue/Orange)

#3: Pin # 5 (Violet/Grey) & Pin # 13 (Green/Violet)

#4: Pin # 6 (Yellow/Orange) & Pin # 14 (Blue)

If you measure out of spec resistance its either the injector or the injector connector, again without looking I do not know what kind of access there is to those.

Hope this helps pinpoint it down.
FYI the OTC Gen was my first professional level scan tool - Loved It, but they stopped update support, so I sold it.

This truly needs a Live Data look to see what is actually happening, but it APPEARS to be injector related or that ECT sensor (if this engine was COLD)

 

[xplorre]

airline tech, you're the best. Thanks for all the effort you put into not only keeping this community going, but equipping us to get the job done well, to learn what the heck we're actually doing (or supposed to be doing), and just making us smarter!

Thanks again

 

[Hamburglar]

Ref: Posted PID's
The ones that stand out
Note: These were taken after (5-Seconds) of engine run time
Was this a - True Cold Engine?
As some PID's stand out

ECT = 100 Deg - after only 5 seconds of running while all others
IAT11=37, IAT12 = 43 and Ambient = 36, so either the engine was still slightly warm or the ECT is not reporting correct temp.
On a true cold engine all sensors should match within a few degrees.
Not shown is the CHT on your PIDs

Engine RPM - 1203 RPM is rather high, need to see what it is when the engine is warm, a higher RPM than normal can be a sign of bad injector and PCM compensating for it, same goes for a vacuum leak.
But this was taken only 5 seconds after start-up, and you are still in (open loop)
Normal Idle RPM - Engine @ Op Temp = around 900RPM


It needs a Relative Compression & Power Balance Test to check Fuel Injectors
This test will disable each injector, and you note the Fuel Press Drop and RPM Drop
The Firing Order = 1-3-4-2
I suspect either Cyl is bleeding over to the other generating both cylinder misfires.
If this was circuit related you would have injector circuit codes, but however the scan tool you have may not pick up the enhanced code

Relative Compression Test - Will show if you have a compression loss issue in the cylinder it uses starter current draw as a measurement while cranking, if a cylinder has low compression it will display as a (% Difference)

Power Balance Test - Wil show a injector issue as you disable the injector for each cylinder you note how much (initial=RPM) drop you see, the cylinder with a low RPM drop indicates a possible bad injector.

So, if the Relative Compression test good, and you have replaced the plugs and cops
(Including the BOOTS?)
Then all that is left is the injector itself or control circuit wiring for the Coils or Injectors.

To test the Injectors (Ohm Test) Internal - Pin to Pin should be between 11-18 Ohms and should be fairly equal between the 4.

There is 1ea (Inline) connector between the PCM and the injectors and that is C1019
You may try disconnecting - inspect & clean and reseat.

It is a 16 Cavity connector, and it is near the HP Fuel Pump on the driver's side of the engine.

Due to limited access to the actual injector connectors as I would actually have to physically check - I believe they are buried so to Ohm them out it would be easier to use the C1019 connector that is accessible.

Male Side of the Connector - Feeds the Injectors
Female Side feeds the PCM

To Ohm the injectors: Ohms Scale & Pin to Pin (Male Side)

#1: Pin # 1 (Green/Blue) & Pin# 9 (Yellow/Blue)

#2: Pin# 4 (Grey/Yellow) & Pin # 12 (Blue/Orange)

#3: Pin # 5 (Violet/Grey) & Pin # 13 (Green/Violet)

#4: Pin # 6 (Yellow/Orange) & Pin # 14 (Blue)

If you measure out of spec resistance its either the injector or the injector connector, again without looking I do not know what kind of access there is to those.

Hope this helps pinpoint it down.
FYI the OTC Gen was my first professional level scan tool - Loved It, but they stopped update support, so I sold it.

This truly needs a Live Data look to see what is actually happening, but it APPEARS to be injector related or that ECT sensor (if this engine was COLD)

Thanks for all of this information.

The ECT should be good. At the time of the freeze frame I had been back and forth with the engine running and not, so it grabbed on initial after it had sat a few minutes from the last run.

RPM is generally good as well. Sits around 1100-1200 for cold start and drops around 950 once warmed up.

Ended up using a BT Dongle that my neighbor had to get a bit more information beyond the lacking OBD scanner I was using. Along with the P0300, P0301, and P0302 it is also showing a P0316 for misfire within the first 1,000 revolutions. It also seems that once up to temp the P2282 code is coming back as pending, but never confirms.

I have a friend back from my previous home getting into my storage container to mail me my compression testing kit and his OTC Touch to actually see live data. The dongle that I borrowed does show some select PIDs, but of course not really much that helps. I have been able to at least verify FRP is looking good.

Not sure what is considered bank 1 and bank 2 for the STFT and LTFT, but bank 2 for both did show -95%. 1 & 2 spark plugs are showing slight wetting with fuel smell, and when running raw fuel can be smelled as well. The 1 & 2 COPs both have hot and ground, but I am not getting a flicker for the signal wire to collapse coil field, like I do for 3 & 4, which has had me chasing trying to find what could be causing the PCM to limit those two coils.

Due to waiting on tools, today will be physical checking the PCM connections as RangerBill recommended and resistance checks on the fuel injectors as you recommend in this post. I am hoping this week I can actually compression test and balance test if nothing else is found.

Thank you for all of the help so far.

 

[shovelhd]

When was the last time you replaced the DPFE sensor? If it's really messed up, I could see it causing random misfires, especially since yours are at low rpm's.

 

[Hamburglar]

When was the last time you replaced the DPFE sensor? If it's really messed up, I could see it causing random misfires, especially since yours are at low rpm's.

That is a really good recommendation that I hadn't thought of. At about 110k miles I had to pull the EGR cooler and run it through a sonic cleaner because I had been getting rough idle and take off due to restriction in the EGR cooler. Cleaning it resolved the problem at the time, but thinking about it now if the EGR cooler was that sooted up I wouldn't be surprised if the DPFE sensor could be just as bad.

I rounded up a compression tester and I am about to test the cylinders now to make sure there isn't internal damage and I'm chasing my tail. So if compression looks the DPFE is on the short list of items to really look at.

Thanks for that recommendation.

 

[Hamburglar]

Well.... compression came back at 0psi on 1 & 2 so I can at least stop chasing electrical. Now I have to start looking at cost of swaps I suppose.

Thank you for those that chimed in with recommendations. It was much appreciated.

 

[Grandaccess]

airline tech, you're the best. Thanks for all the effort you put into not only keeping this community going, but equipping us to get the job done well, to learn what the heck we're actually doing (or supposed to be doing), and just making us smarter!

Thanks again

Its almost scary sometimes, like he was on the engineering team that built this truck LOL
MVP for sure, we have to make sure there is always a Ranger parked in his driveway even if we have to chip in for it! so he feels compelled to stay on the forum

 

[Techcargt]

Well.... compression came back at 0psi on 1 & 2 so I can at least stop chasing electrical. Now I have to start looking at cost of swaps I suppose.

Thank you for those that chimed in with recommendations. It was much appreciated.

I think at this point I would pull the valve cover off and check the cam and cam followers.

 

[seasprite]

Can you do a cylinder leak down test to see where the compression is going? Or a bore scope

 

[airline tech]

I think with the code P2282 & taking a second look at the posted PID's, I am thinking a major vacuum leak. Most likely in the intake manifold or gasket between Cly's #1 & #2. This can throw off compression readings.

The PCV system can also tie in, but I suspect that would affect all cylinders.
As far as a PCV valve stuck open - issue

Ref: MAP PID: 19 in HG - Converted to PSI = 9.33 PSI
Granted this was @ 5-Seconds after start, might want to doublecheck that PID @ hot-idle.
Normal MAP @ hot-idle should be about 4.93 PSI

Ref: Crank Press PID: Not posted - should read about 3.3-4.3 V or close to (-0.2) PSI @ hot idle
this would possibly show a stuck open PCV valve or damaged hose.

A Intake leak (noted by P2282) will cause a high MAP reading

I would check for these things before I lock in a Head Gasket or Internal Engine issue, sometimes Compression Test will mislead, and I think the P2282 code just may be trying to tell you something.

 

[got3fords]

All the time, money and effort you are spending on this would make me lean toward finding a local reputable dealer.

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