The car wont start,is not recognizing the key

[Cmar]

Found this for you on the Aus Ranger site, this is specific for the 3.2 diesel. May be of some help.

The owners manual says;
'After battery replacement, or in some cases after charging the battery with an external charger, the Battery Management System requires eight hours of vehicle sleep time (key off with doors closed) to relearn the new battery state of charge.
Prior to relearning the state of charge, the Battery Management System may disable electrical features (to protect the battery) earlier than normal.'


The BCM (Body Control Module) knows the age of the battery, i assume it uses that and temps and current drawn of battery and put back in and voltages to work out the battery state of charge and may alter its charging algorithm?

The battery age can be reset, by a Ford dealer OR by using software called Forscan and correct OBD2 lead (many members on here have it, i have it) OR possibly by any decent OBD2 scan tool that good workshops would have.

When i replace my battery i will reset by battery age, not sure if it will make much difference, but why would they have the age and age re-settable if it wasn't used for anything?

Sponsored

 

[airline tech]

That is the BMS circuit and will not cause the issues he is having; it will not disable all the circuits he has (Not-Working)
There is a couple of BMS reset procedures that can be done, but the BCM has to be powered for it to happen.
Either Manually - Brake Pedal procedure or via scan tool
What that reset does it resets - Time since installed (date) of the battery for use in the charging algorithm - and the system is not specific to (ROW's) it's on the US Version as well.

 

[Verimus]

OK, I am very curious as to what they find.
As, it's not Anti-Theft related, as you should be able to operate the door locks and lighting should operate even without the FOB / Keys in hand.

If all was working before the battery was removed, then all that is left is:
The BCM is internally (fried)
or
a complete power loss to the BCM (wiring)
or
The new battery is (internally shorted), showing surface voltage only, but when you add a load, it drops down to (nothing) or a very low voltage.
I know you said voltage was good, but what does it do (under a load)?

Do you have any battery - anything, just to drop in and see if that changes operation?
or
The ability to Load Test the battery that is installed?

Have you tried disconnecting and reconnecting the battery?

Somethings telling me, you simply have a bad (new) battery, and we are overlooking the obvious.
So, I would backtrack to the original item replaced when this started. I think that the surface voltage you are seeing 12.6 to 12.8 volts may be misleading.
This is why I was suggesting a jump start or jumper box or adding a charging source into the system and add another voltage source on the system.

May I ask, what was the reason for replacing the battery? - Same issues or precautionary?

Hi, in the last time appear 2-3 times on display one message " Sistem off to save battery.
please turn ignition off or start engine "
So I took the negative battery off.
To save the battery .
After 2 days i reconect it and here is the story.
After that i have tried to give power from other car with cables with new battery, with this old battery after charging, and same result , nothing.
we took the battery(identical) from other car and put on my car and nothing.
What I sow today I tried to lock /unlock the door manually and the key is not working (rotating) inside the lock.
Thx

 

[airline tech]

I would try hooking up a scanner and see if it will communicate to the truck.
Power to the OBD Port, comes off the 125-Amp fuse, so if it powers you have power on the circuit. at least.
Scan for codes and perform a BCM self-test reset and any other module reporting faults.
Record the faults before you reset anything, in case the code and module resets do not help.

You can also, check for power at the BCM connector - C2280A, pull this connector off and check for voltage - this is a direct feed from that 125-Amp fuse.

The door lock cylinder is mechanical, if it's not turning - it might just need some lube.
Now electrically it will activate - all door lock/unlock, but it's still a standard lock cylinder.

 

[airline tech]

After this post - I am out of ideas

Since this is a similar issue other have had, but yours is stuck in the mode.

Mysterious No Start - Magically Starts Issue | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

Being that it was a THEORY, on this relay (Micro).
Sometimes you forget how much the Can Busses tie in and can actually tie together separate circuits.
Such as - The door lock circuit - triggers the (Entry / Exit) headlight flash.

Now since there is NOT a detailed description on ALL circuits the BMS system can shut down / disable to save the battery. This MAY come into play and be a deeper lockout than others have experienced, and I believe it may have been triggered by the battery disconnect - With that message showing on the Sync Screen.

Other owners have experienced with - Low Battery Voltage - Issues
Not working correctly - Door Locks, Remote Starting and the Sync, ASS &
The mystery no starting issues - in the link above as well - all tied to the Wake-Circuit

So, my thought is and if this works - I have to backtrack and say I was wrong to the above poster who suggested the BMS Reset, as NOW I have a feeling that that system has the door lock circuit locked out/ disabled, the micro-relay in the BCM is not closing and the BCM is stuck in DEEP SLEEP.
I focused on a blown fuse or battery issue, but when you stated you had that message when you disconnected, made me think - Well just maybe it is the BMS killing power to all.

So, I wonder if a BMS Reset, just might cure this issue, however this will go outside the box of all service manual troubleshooting for this specific issue.

If you have a scanner / Forscan - do a BMS Reset, and this is assuming that you can communicate to the BCM.

If you do not have a scanner, then you have to do this the alternate way.

EASIEST FORD BMS reset - what to do after you change the battery, passive entry not working

Here is the written way:

How to do it without Scan Tool or Forscan:

1. Put Ignition Switch In (ASSY) & Complete Steps 2 & 3 Within (10 Seconds)
2. Flash the Hi-Beams (5) Times, ending with the Hi-Beams –(Off)
3. Press and Release the Brake Pedal (3) Times
4. The Battery Warning Light – Will Flash (3) Times to confirm the Reset is successful.

If this BMS reset works, it will be a VALUABLE piece of information and an unknown (capability) of the BMS system actually able to kill the truck from being able to start.

For Ref: This generic statement

Battery Load Shed

The BCM monitors the battery state of charge and when necessary, will shut off accessories in order to save the remaining battery charge.

Keyword: ACCESSORIES, and I think that the interior lighting is the key factor, having a tie-in effect on the door locks, and headlights as this can be the pin-point source.
and it makes me wonder (if you were to) cycle the switch on the overhead console to force power on the circuit (would it help)?

I know I have thrown out allot of different possibilities here and now that we know (YOU SHOULD) be getting power from the fuse, it points at the BCM itself, either locked out by a Stuck Relay, BMS Lockout, or locked out by a stored code. I do not think the BCM is bad (itself) it is possible though.

 

[Verimus]

After this post - I am out of ideas

Since this is a similar issue other have had, but yours is stuck in the mode.

Mysterious No Start - Magically Starts Issue | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

Being that it was a THEORY, on this relay (Micro).
Sometimes you forget how much the Can Busses tie in and can actually tie together separate circuits.
Such as - The door lock circuit - triggers the (Entry / Exit) headlight flash.

Now since there is NOT a detailed description on ALL circuits the BMS system can shut down / disable to save the battery. This MAY come into play and be a deeper lockout than others have experienced, and I believe it may have been triggered by the battery disconnect - With that message showing on the Sync Screen.

Other owners have experienced with - Low Battery Voltage - Issues
Not working correctly - Door Locks, Remote Starting and the Sync, ASS &
The mystery no starting issues - in the link above as well - all tied to the Wake-Circuit

So, my thought is and if this works - I have to backtrack and say I was wrong to the above poster who suggested the BMS Reset, as NOW I have a feeling that that system has the door lock circuit locked out/ disabled, the micro-relay in the BCM is not closing and the BCM is stuck in DEEP SLEEP.
I focused on a blown fuse or battery issue, but when you stated you had that message when you disconnected, made me think - Well just maybe it is the BMS killing power to all.

So, I wonder if a BMS Reset, just might cure this issue, however this will go outside the box of all service manual troubleshooting for this specific issue.

If you have a scanner / Forscan - do a BMS Reset, and this is assuming that you can communicate to the BCM.

If you do not have a scanner, then you have to do this the alternate way.

EASIEST FORD BMS reset - what to do after you change the battery, passive entry not working

Here is the written way:

How to do it without Scan Tool or Forscan:

1. Put Ignition Switch In (ASSY) & Complete Steps 2 & 3 Within (10 Seconds)
2. Flash the Hi-Beams (5) Times, ending with the Hi-Beams –(Off)
3. Press and Release the Brake Pedal (3) Times
4. The Battery Warning Light – Will Flash (3) Times to confirm the Reset is successful.

If this BMS reset works, it will be a VALUABLE piece of information and an unknown (capability) of the BMS system actually able to kill the truck from being able to start.

For Ref: This generic statement

Battery Load Shed

The BCM monitors the battery state of charge and when necessary, will shut off accessories in order to save the remaining battery charge.

Keyword: ACCESSORIES, and I think that the interior lighting is the key factor, having a tie-in effect on the door locks, and headlights as this can be the pin-point source.
and it makes me wonder (if you were to) cycle the switch on the overhead console to force power on the circuit (would it help)?

I know I have thrown out allot of different possibilities here and now that we know (YOU SHOULD) be getting power from the fuse, it points at the BCM itself, either locked out by a Stuck Relay, BMS Lockout, or locked out by a stored code. I do not think the BCM is bad (itself) it is possible though.

HI ,I did not move the car bcz I'm waiting for one good auto electrical engineer to coma here this days.
I dpnt have Forscan.
I have tried what you said ,step 1,2,3,4 .
And nothing happend.
What I notice is this, I put fully charged battery in morning to do what you said, and nothing.
So, like everytime display became bright and remain bright .
I left the battery there and now after 7-8 hours the battery is at 8.6 V ,
What is interesting, the display is off and mileage screen is bright what I mean ,the numbers of mileage.
And the lights from climate control, radio control and emergency button ,they light up for 8 seconds and off for 3 seconds , this is doing continuously.
I have tried to press any button with no result.
Nothing else.
Key no key ,nothing change .
Thx

 

[airline tech]

I think the issue is on the Door Ajar / Door Lock circuit.
When you open the door, triggers the power to the items you mentioned.
If you just close the door and do not start it, they power off.
If this is a constant cycle, then the truck thinks the door is constantly being opened.

This ties in (2- Power Feeds)
1. The 125-Amp - Feed to the BCM
2. The 50-Amp - Feed from the DC/DC Converter

The BCM, controls the power to the Door Ajar / Door Locks
The DC/DC Converter controls the power to the, IPC, FCIM, APIM & ACM. (All the items you see powering)

So, this can be a number of things:
In order of probability

1 Bad Door Lock actuator, stuck in Lock or Unlock Mode and shorting the circuit
2. Bad BCM - (Internal - Door Lock/ Unlock) relays stuck, or keeping the Run / Start Relay powered
via the Ground Signal (To It)
3. Bad Door Ajar Switch, stuck in the (open) position and sensing that the door is opened when it is actually closed.
4. Bad Ignition Switch - Keeping the (ISP-R) circuit active, (ISP-R) Ignition Switch Position - (Run)
5. Bad DC/DC Converter - Stuck in the (On Power) Mode and not switching off
6. Short (Wiring) - constantly trying to power the circuit and the BCM is trying to turn it off.
7. Any of the items you see IPC, FCIM, APIM & ACM that is powered by the DC/DC Converter. keeping the circuit powered.

I strongly feel the issue is in the door lock or door ajar circuit.

Note: You may try, disconnecting and reseating the DC/DC Converter (connector)

Yes, good call on getting a technician there to look at it, as this is going to take some wiring checks to locate the issue without shot gunning parts at it.


DC/DC Converter Module (Location)

You may also try opening and closing all doors and cycling all door lock switches - to see if it helps

 

[airline tech]

Just checking - Did you get the truck to start?

 

[Verimus]

Just checking - Did you get the truck to start?

Hi, for now no news.
Everyone is wondering what can be.
They are stil working to find the problem.
Said ,he wanna check every single things step by step .
Unbelievable.
Next week I wanna have discution with them, maybe is better to change everithing with new staff.

 

[ControlNode]

I know it sounds crazy, but I've seen it happen, a battery R&R can fry modules if you're not very deliberate with the disconnect and connect of the first terminal to open, or last terminal to close, the circuit. if you drag that terminal lightly around the lug while working the on/off/on/off as it closes and opens can ruin modules.

This is another reason I use aux power while doing mine, that first/last terminal on the RS being the ground on the body with a bolt makes keeping a good connection while removing and replacing that bolt harder. At least when working with a battery terminal and lug you can hold pressure on it while you loosen it, then just slide it off quickly. It was the GM side terminals, another design that it's hard to maintain a closed circuit while removing/installing, that we saw some of the initial problems with ECU/PCMs frying during battery R&R and when our shop invested in the memory retaining kit. We also had a VW get fried, but that was all on the tech, he didn't use the battery backup and then when he was connecting the battery the alarm would go off and he would disconnect the battery and reconnect it thinking maybe this time the alarm will not sound. I was at the front of the store with a customer and had to excuse myself to attempt to stop him from doing that, but by the time I got there he had done this about 8-9 times and the damage was done. But the store manager was his mother-in-law so even though him breaking customer's cars was a normal he was not going anywhere.


Hopefully they find the solution soon for your truck.

 

[Verimus]

I know it sounds crazy, but I've seen it happen, a battery R&R can fry modules if you're not very deliberate with the disconnect and connect of the first terminal to open, or last terminal to close, the circuit. if you drag that terminal lightly around the lug while working the on/off/on/off as it closes and opens can ruin modules.

This is another reason I use aux power while doing mine, that first/last terminal on the RS being the ground on the body with a bolt makes keeping a good connection while removing and replacing that bolt harder. At least when working with a battery terminal and lug you can hold pressure on it while you loosen it, then just slide it off quickly. It was the GM side terminals, another design that it's hard to maintain a closed circuit while removing/installing, that we saw some of the initial problems with ECU/PCMs frying during battery R&R and when our shop invested in the memory retaining kit. We also had a VW get fried, but that was all on the tech, he didn't use the battery backup and then when he was connecting the battery the alarm would go off and he would disconnect the battery and reconnect it thinking maybe this time the alarm will not sound. I was at the front of the store with a customer and had to excuse myself to attempt to stop him from doing that, but by the time I got there he had done this about 8-9 times and the damage was done. But the store manager was his mother-in-law so even though him breaking customer's cars was a normal he was not going anywhere.


Hopefully they find the solution soon for your truck.

HI, i called now for news and nothing for now.
No one can understand what is the problem.
Is like is sleeping and doesn't want to wake up.
Is what they said.

 

[Verimus]

Just checking - Did you get the truck to start?

Just checking - Did you get the truck to start?

Hallo, They found the problem.
The BCM it's the problem.
They have tried to rewrite the bcm but it's one component what is broken or burned ,and I must buy one ,bcz can't fix it.
Thank you very much.
You was very big support for me.

Sponsored