The car wont start,is not recognizing the key

[Verimus]

Hello, I have this problem with my ford ranger 2017 3.2 diesel.I left the car with no battery for 2 days and I changed it with new one.I cant start the car.The only thing what is doing is the display becoming enlighted.But nothing else.The battery is new and full charged.Is like it is not recognizing te key .Zero work with the key.The battery of the key is ok.
Someone can explain me what can be?
And I saw now that ,here is only about the ranger 2019+ .Sorry for this but i dont know what to do,no one can explain me what is it.
And i dont wanna go to spend money before I understand the problem.
Thank you .

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[RangerBill]

Do you have any DTC codes with a code reader?

 

[airline tech]

Yes- Scan for codes and perform a Code Reset, as it appears the (KAM) has possibly been wiped.
I cannot think of the exact code, but it has to do with internal timer (counter) communication between the PCM and the BCM (not matching) as a POSSIBLE

Start there, but there are other possibilities as well, Blown Fuse (BCM) this fuse is buried under the BJB (Engine Bay -Fuse Box) or the power (feed) cables running down to it.
Ensure ALL connections to the (Positive) Post are secure and that you have the (little) wedge on the positive post (correctly oriented) like this.

May also need a new FOB Programming, are you getting any messages - No Key Detected?

Basically, we need to determine the cause, Blown Fuse (accidental or caused by the battery R&R) as these fuses are temperamental (vibration), PATs locked out due to Key Fob (data loss)

Unsecured battery cable connections (check all cables you touched in the R&R), most important is the orientation of that small little wedge block beside the Pos battery post, if that is not correct the battery post will not be tight enough for a (full connection)

Pull the codes and post them - if you find any.

 

[Verimus]

Yes- Scan for codes and perform a Code Reset, as it appears the (KAM) has possibly been wiped.
I cannot think of the exact code, but it has to do with internal timer (counter) communication between the PCM and the BCM (not matching) as a POSSIBLE

Start there, but there are other possibilities as well, Blown Fuse (BCM) this fuse is buried under the BJB (Engine Bay -Fuse Box) or the power (feed) cables running down to it.
Ensure ALL connections to the (Positive) Post are secure and that you have the (little) wedge on the positive post (correctly oriented) like this.

May also need a new FOB Programming, are you getting any messages - No Key Detected?

Basically, we need to determine the cause, Blown Fuse (accidental or caused by the battery R&R) as these fuses are temperamental (vibration), PATs locked out due to Key Fob (data loss)

Unsecured battery cable connections (check all cables you touched in the R&R), most important is the orientation of that small little wedge block beside the Pos battery post, if that is not correct the battery post will not be tight enough for a (full connection)

Pull the codes and post them - if you find any.

Yes- Scan for codes and perform a Code Reset, as it appears the (KAM) has possibly been wiped.
I cannot think of the exact code, but it has to do with internal timer (counter) communication between the PCM and the BCM (not matching) as a POSSIBLE

Start there, but there are other possibilities as well, Blown Fuse (BCM) this fuse is buried under the BJB (Engine Bay -Fuse Box) or the power (feed) cables running down to it.
Ensure ALL connections to the (Positive) Post are secure and that you have the (little) wedge on the positive post (correctly oriented) like this.

May also need a new FOB Programming, are you getting any messages - No Key Detected?

Basically, we need to determine the cause, Blown Fuse (accidental or caused by the battery R&R) as these fuses are temperamental (vibration), PATs locked out due to Key Fob (data loss)

Unsecured battery cable connections (check all cables you touched in the R&R), most important is the orientation of that small little wedge block beside the Pos battery post, if that is not correct the battery post will not be tight enough for a (full connection)

Pull the codes and post them - if you

Yes- Scan for codes and perform a Code Reset, as it appears the (KAM) has possibly been wiped.
I cannot think of the exact code, but it has to do with internal timer (counter) communication between the PCM and the BCM (not matching) as a POSSIBLE

Start there, but there are other possibilities as well, Blown Fuse (BCM) this fuse is buried under the BJB (Engine Bay -Fuse Box) or the power (feed) cables running down to it.
Ensure ALL connections to the (Positive) Post are secure and that you have the (little) wedge on the positive post (correctly oriented) like this.

May also need a new FOB Programming, are you getting any messages - No Key Detected?

Basically, we need to determine the cause, Blown Fuse (accidental or caused by the battery R&R) as these fuses are temperamental (vibration), PATs locked out due to Key Fob (data loss)

Unsecured battery cable connections (check all cables you touched in the R&R), most important is the orientation of that small little wedge block beside the Pos battery post, if that is not correct the battery post will not be tight enough for a (full connection)

Pull the codes and post them - if you find any.

The fuse are ok, all connections are ok .
I found 2 codes ,one under the battery and one under the fuse box.
I changed the key battery with new one.
I uset the second key what I have and nothyng.

 

[RangerBill]

I found 2 codes ,one under the battery and one under the fuse box.

I am not sure what you mean by this. What are the DTC numbers?

 

[airline tech]

Yes- We need to know what the specific codes are - when you hook a scanner up and scan for current fault codes.

Plus: Be very specific on what power you have and do not have
IPC Powering up when door is opened?
Are the dome (interior lights powering on?
What Happens when you try to start?
Are you getting any - Headlights, Radio Etc ?
If Radio works - are all the presets still there?
Is it Clicking (Starter) when attempting to start?
Do you have PB Start or Keyed?

Outside the box - Thinking

Try starting in - Neutral or play with the shifter (rock it back and forth)

Try adding in a (Jump Start) and or a battery charger (another power source) to the battery
This will do 2 things - add in another 12-volt source (voltage) and create a current flow to possibly force whatever module to wake up.

We need to determine is it a power issue or the Anti-Theft key programing that has you locked out.
2 days without a battery hooked up, might have dumped all module memory

 

[airline tech]

Trying to Pinpoint down - Power Loss,
If the Headlights Work - Do you only have (One Side Working - Left Side?)
And the Right Side (Not Working)?

If this is correct, then you have a blown fuse

Now, understand that we cannot see the (ROW) Ranger wiring diagrams, but I assume that your truck is similar in wiring and fuse locations may be different.

Now I am only going with the current info you have given, and you only have the (IPC) powering up and nothing else.
I suspect the PCM Power Relay is not powering and would hold true if you only have (Left Side) Headlights.

This ties to the trucks Wake Circuit and could be Fuse #67 in the Battery Junction Box (Engine Bay Fuse Box)
Now if this box is like out Ranger (US) you have to remove the box and flip it over to get access to the bottom side of the box (more fuses-in the bottom side)

Fuse #67, Feeds the RH Side (Exterior Lights) plus it also powers:
1. Interior Lights (Dome)
2. Panel / Switch - Backlighting
3. BSI - Brake Switch Interlock - This allows the shifter to be shifted out of park, when pressing the brake pedal - plus this input is required with a PB Start
4. Demand LP (Batt Save) - This is the circuit that powers off the interior lighting when the door is closed.

Now, since the fuse location may be different it should be labeled:
Body Control Module (BCM) - Fuse #67 (50-Amp) Fuse

Fuse 67 (Circled)
Fuse 62 is the fuse for the LH Exterior Lighting as a Ref

Note: These are the only (2) 50-Amp fuses (on this fuse box)

Again - this is just a hunch by the information you have provided thus far and has the highest probability of your fault location.

 

[Verimus]

Yes- We need to know what the specific codes are - when you hook a scanner up and scan for current fault codes.

Plus: Be very specific on what power you have and do not have
IPC Powering up when door is opened?
Are the dome (interior lights powering on?
What Happens when you try to start?
Are you getting any - Headlights, Radio Etc ?
If Radio works - are all the presets still there?
Is it Clicking (Starter) when attempting to start?
Do you have PB Start or Keyed?

Outside the box - Thinking

Try starting in - Neutral or play with the shifter (rock it back and forth)

Try adding in a (Jump Start) and or a battery charger (another power source) to the battery
This will do 2 things - add in another 12-volt source (voltage) and create a current flow to possibly force whatever module to wake up.

We need to determine is it a power issue or the Anti-Theft key programing that has you locked out.
2 days without a battery hooked up, might have dumped all module memory

Ok,I will do.
I'm in the same situation.
I can not attach pictures, I have tried more times.
For now what i know :
When door open nothing happen, no light, no headlight,no position light.
No lights outside, no lights inside.
Only display becomes bright and remain bright all the time,but nothing else.
When i turn the key nothing happen, no noise, nothing appear on display.
Only thing what the key is doing is to unlock the steering wheel.
The radio is working ,I will check for preset if still there.
The driver seat has power to set the position.
Thank you very much.
P.S.
I spoke with chief mechanic at Ford here in my country and he said never had this situation.

My problem is because i'm up in the hills (very high altitude)with a forest road acces and no one wanna come here.
And i cant move the car from here.
Maybe I will try to move it with forestry machine.
Thx.

 

[airline tech]

Ok, you defiantly have a blown fuse, and I think it's a fuse for the BCM, as it appears the BCM is not getting power

Feeding the BCM

You have 4 Sources (Power Feed) Into the BCM

Fuse #62 & Fuse #67 (Mentioned Above)

Just below the (BJB) - since you have to remove the box to get access to Fuse 62 & 67

Take a step further and below that box is - The High Current Junction Box
This has the 125-Amp BCM Fuse and the DC/DC - Power Feed into the BCM

Check ALL of these fuses with importance to the 125-Amp Fuse

Note: Fuse 5 location = Upfitter Switches (If installed)
Note: Location #4 - this is the positive cable connection coming from the positive battery post.
Labeled: Location (C) on the pic below, if that connection is not secure or the cable is corroded or damaged it will not allow power down to the High Current Fuse Box.

Did you - DISCONNECT - Locations C & D?

I SUSPECT you may have the connections (REVERSED) as a possibility

Now if these were disconnected:

The 225- Amp connection (D) - should route down towards the alternator

The BJB Connection should route back towards the BJB

If unsure (visibly) routing, with the battery end disconnected and the High Current Fuse Box, accessible (Meter (Ohm) that cable to verify you are on the right cable.
Do NOT just swap them (blindly)

Again, either you have blown a fuse (for the BCM) or the BJB Cable is swapped with the Alternator or the BJB cable is not secure.

 

[airline tech]

Ok, Had time for more in-depth wiring checks

The DC/DC Power (High Current Fuse Box 50-Amp) is Good, as you have IPC & Radio Power

If you do not have working (Power Door Locks)
The Lock & Unlock Relays - Power Off the 125-Amp BCM Fuse
Then this fuse is Blown.
If they are working - The Fuse is Good.

If your door locks are working, then I suspect:

Fuse: Fuse 67 - 50-AMP (Bottom of BJB) This is the RH side of Exterior Lights
This fuse also powers:
Dash Panel (Backlighting) - Interior Lights (Dome) and the PCM (Wake Circuit)
When the Driver's Door Opens the BCM sends the command to the PCM (internally) to Ground the PCM Power Relay (Coil Side)
This Ground signal - is not being commanded (sent) and the reason for (No-Start) as this circuit is not powered.

I have a strong feeling - this is the fuse that is blown.

Note: This fuse is hard to see visually if blown (so Ohm check it) or replace it, since you have to do some labor to get to it.

If the above fuses are Good.
Then Try (Remove & Reinstall) the PCM Power Relay
or swap it with the Blower Motor Relay

If still (No-Start)
Do the same with the Run/Start Relay - Swap with the Blower Motor Relay

 

[Verimus]

Ok, Had time for more in-depth wiring checks

The DC/DC Power (High Current Fuse Box 50-Amp) is Good, as you have IPC & Radio Power

If you do not have working (Power Door Locks)
The Lock & Unlock Relays - Power Off the 125-Amp BCM Fuse
Then this fuse is Blown.
If they are working - The Fuse is Good.

If your door locks are working, then I suspect:

Fuse: Fuse 67 - 50-AMP (Bottom of BJB) This is the RH side of Exterior Lights
This fuse also powers:
Dash Panel (Backlighting) - Interior Lights (Dome) and the PCM (Wake Circuit)
When the Driver's Door Opens the BCM sends the command to the PCM (internally) to Ground the PCM Power Relay (Coil Side)
This Ground signal - is not being commanded (sent) and the reason for (No-Start) as this circuit is not powered.

I have a strong feeling - this is the fuse that is blown.

Note: This fuse is hard to see visually if blown (so Ohm check it) or replace it, since you have to do some labor to get to it.

If the above fuses are Good.
Then Try (Remove & Reinstall) the PCM Power Relay
or swap it with the Blower Motor Relay

If still (No-Start)
Do the same with the Run/Start Relay - Swap with the Blower Motor Relay

Hi, I did all today.
I checked all the fuses one by one and all good.
BJB above and below and all fuses ok.
BJB fuses ok.
I swapped all similar relay more times and nothing.
I checked all conections ,pozitive and negative and is ok.
No lock/unlock doors, no windows, no mirors movement, no lights, any lights.
No memory preset on the radio.
When I turn on the key the last position to start the engine,the radio stops.
Tomorow I will take the car to the service.
Thank you for now and all my respect !!!

 

[airline tech]

OK, I am very curious as to what they find.
As, it's not Anti-Theft related, as you should be able to operate the door locks and lighting should operate even without the FOB / Keys in hand.

If all was working before the battery was removed, then all that is left is:
The BCM is internally (fried)
or
a complete power loss to the BCM (wiring)
or
The new battery is (internally shorted), showing surface voltage only, but when you add a load, it drops down to (nothing) or a very low voltage.
I know you said voltage was good, but what does it do (under a load)?

Do you have any battery - anything, just to drop in and see if that changes operation?
or
The ability to Load Test the battery that is installed?

Have you tried disconnecting and reconnecting the battery?

Somethings telling me, you simply have a bad (new) battery, and we are overlooking the obvious.
So, I would backtrack to the original item replaced when this started. I think that the surface voltage you are seeing 12.6 to 12.8 volts may be misleading.
This is why I was suggesting a jump start or jumper box or adding a charging source into the system and add another voltage source on the system.

May I ask, what was the reason for replacing the battery? - Same issues or precautionary?

 

[RangerBill]

I wonder if all the red leads were reconnected to the battery positive terminal bus when the battery was replaced.

 

[airline tech]

I wonder if all the red leads were reconnected to the battery positive terminal bus when the battery was replaced.

The red lead feeding down to the High Current Box is connected, as he has partial power, coming out of the DC/DC convertor. (IPC & Radio) working.
That lead feeds the whole (High Current Box) so the BCM fuse is also getting power, just unknown if getting past the fuse and into the BCM.
Thats the only power source that appears to be working. (DC/DC Convertor)

The only way to really tell is to get on the BCM connector and see if you have 12 volts.

 

[airline tech]

Sorry, forgot to add, he also has a working seat control - coming off of the BJB.
The cable (BMFL) runs down to the High Current Junction Box to feed the (Fuse Link)
A separate cable runs from that back up to the BJB.
This cable is connected as he is getting - Seat Power, so the circuit Before the PCM Power Relay is also good.

It takes BCM power to get the PCM Power Relay to close, the BCM for some reason is not powering.
Does he have a true (Full 12 Volts) under a load - is the question - now as there may be enough in the battery to power the seat but not the BCM - direct feed from the BJB and always hot although it may be moving slowly.

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