It happened - 78k miles - CEL flashing and BAD shudder under load

[db_tanker]

With the MBI from Geico...I AM HOPING that they understand that the fault occurred before the scheduled maintenance period AND was also causing drivability and code/fault level issues therefore do not fall under normal wear and tear items - coupled with the mfg not installing the engine cover.

Lastly I am not expecting them to cover all of it? If they cover say half I'll be happy as a clam.

We shall see.



Edit to add/ask - the engine cover will help but is there anything out there I can do when I get it back that can help to keep this from happening in the future?

D

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[airline tech]

With the MBI from Geico...I AM HOPING that they understand that the fault occurred before the scheduled maintenance period AND was also causing drivability and code/fault level issues therefore do not fall under normal wear and tear items - coupled with the mfg not installing the engine cover.

Lastly I am not expecting them to cover all of it? If they cover say half I'll be happy as a clam.

We shall see.



Edit to add/ask - the engine cover will help but is there anything out there I can do when I get it back that can help to keep this from happening in the future?

D

1st - Ask the dealer if they will or can apply Anti-Seize to the plug threads, this is outside of the service manuals for install.
If it is a (No)- then this will help, in keeping the threads from seizing for the next plug change and you can DIY

Since the cover is only a partial fix, it does not address the spot/area where the water collects and drips off of the cowl panel - down to the top of the engine - directly above #4 plug
Depending on (Truck Angle- Parking)
It can run down the intake valley and pool at the #1 plug
The pooled water - seeps under the COP boot and down into the plug well

You could add some RTV at this spot to help in keeping the water from seeping down the well, but you will still have the water pooling.

if you reference, the water in the spark plug wells thread.
You will find a few ideas for a water reroute or block (for the drip)
As of now, all we have is ideas to resolve the issue that appear to work and we do not have a definitive (100%) guide/ steps for a (100%) guaranteed fix

 

[Jason B]

Except their own manual says the plugs are good to 150k miles.

Again, if it's galvanized itself in there and needs a new head, or that's even potentially the solution... tell me. Wisdom as you mentioned.

If you decide to proceed and bust something that then requires $3k worth of parts and labor don't come to me with your hand out after the fact expecting me to pay for the mistake.

I expect the option to say nope, stop there I'll take it to somebody else I trust to do this right if I'm looking at a potential big money solution to what should be a $30 set of plugs.

Think about how stupid that sounds. I asked for a $30 set of plugs and now I'm on the hook for $3k in parts and labor (guess) for a new head/labor and nobody took a minute to warn me? Are you kidding? Talk to the manager, talk to Ford, talk to whomever you want, that's so wildly inappropriate I'd be calling an attorney and I freaking HATE attorneys.

The only reason we're even mildly tolerant of any of it is we're hip to the issue from this forum ??‍?‍?

This goes along the lines of the 2 piece plugs that were on the Triton engines. They were very susceptible on braking when trying to replace them, sometimes with part of the plug falling into the cylinder. You'd have to fight Ford tooth and nail to cover the cost of head removal to retrieve the broken plug. It was part of the reason some dealerships had a fee of $1300 for plug replacement. Some independent shops wouldn't even touch the job.

 

[db_tanker]

So a small update - after talking to Geico and the dealer the MBI will actually cover the labor as well as parts (at least one plug and COP) and since the tune up will be going forward with the noted issue IF there are other broken plugs and noted issues they will cover that as well. Will it be something off the bill? Sure. At this point anything and everything helps.

Fingers crossed my big fears don't become realized.

Sadly this was the day I planned to service my transmission, replace the pan, filter, etc. lol

D

 

[db_tanker]

So got my truck back (yay now I can install the Mish trans pan and dipstick tube )

Geico MBI actually covered all but 700 dollars of the repair and for that I am VERY happy as I wasn't expecting much from it. I give them a bit thumbs up on helping me out on that.

One observation - the engine cover they installed...its not a blow-molded or injection molded plastic. It feels more like a foam? Is this right?

And about that - the service writer told me that the TSB for the engine cover is no longer active. IS this true or is there a replacement TSB? Did the TSB stop being active due to the Gen 6 Ranger being built now?


Also - here is pics of the culprit for my woes and plate of crow

 

[LawnMM]

Glad it's home and running again ?

 

[Crow_of_judgement]

So got my truck back (yay now I can install the Mish trans pan and dipstick tube )

Geico MBI actually covered all but 700 dollars of the repair and for that I am VERY happy as I wasn't expecting much from it. I give them a bit thumbs up on helping me out on that.

One observation - the engine cover they installed...its not a blow-molded or injection molded plastic. It feels more like a foam? Is this right?

And about that - the service writer told me that the TSB for the engine cover is no longer active. IS this true or is there a replacement TSB? Did the TSB stop being active due to the Gen 6 Ranger being built now?


Also - here is pics of the culprit for my woes and plate of crow

 

[Loweredon33s]

So got my truck back (yay now I can install the Mish trans pan and dipstick tube )

Geico MBI actually covered all but 700 dollars of the repair and for that I am VERY happy as I wasn't expecting much from it. I give them a bit thumbs up on helping me out on that.

One observation - the engine cover they installed...its not a blow-molded or injection molded plastic. It feels more like a foam? Is this right?

And about that - the service writer told me that the TSB for the engine cover is no longer active. IS this true or is there a replacement TSB? Did the TSB stop being active due to the Gen 6 Ranger being built now?


Also - here is pics of the culprit for my woes and plate of crow

Glad it all worked out. Yes the cover is foam. It also is way less effective than everyone wants to believe. Just look at it and you’ll understand. I have had mine on and off over the years and I don’t have any water problems either way. My 2016 Explorer has a 2.3 transversely mounted and has a huge molded plastic cover and it has the water problem….. I honestly think it’s a lifestyle thing, it seems like it has to do with how it’s driven, the duration of the drive and frequency of driving. My truck is daily driven and thoroughly heat cycled whereas my Explorer is more a random short trip vehicle.

 

[mtsoxfan]

I'm sure if I read the 15k plus replies on the multiple threads on the spark plug issues, It'd tell me. What is the correct method for getting spark plugs out without breaking? I'm at 43k now, and would prefer to avoid issues later given that ESP may or may not cover damage. Is there a preferred brand of anti seize, or are they all the same?

 

[Fx4ranger2019Larait]

Is there a preferred brand of anti seize, or are they all the same?

I believe they’re all the same or similar and will do the job. I recently changed my plugs at 62k miles had a cover the whole time no plugs broke off. Thank god!! I used this just to be safe and have used it for years on previous vehicles.

As a side note be careful with anti seize if you get it on any plastic trim it’s almost impossible to remove.

 

[airline tech]

I'm sure if I read the 15k plus replies on the multiple threads on the spark plug issues, It'd tell me. What is the correct method for getting spark plugs out without breaking? I'm at 43k now, and would prefer to avoid issues later given that ESP may or may not cover damage. Is there a preferred brand of anti seize, or are they all the same?

There is really no EXACT - 100% Effective Procedure, if you have Corroded Plugs
But some experience steps can possibly help.

1. Blow out any water in the well and follow up with some brake cleaner, let it sit for a while to help break up the debris / corrosion and blow out the well again.

2. Soak the well with penetrating oil- I prefer KROIL, has a good seep quality, depending on how bad it looks let it soak for a few hours to overnight.

3. Blow out the well again, to remove the penetrating oil and put the COP back on.

4. Start the engine and let it run for about 10 minutes, you only want to get the engine warm not hot, feel by hand touch on the intake.

5. Remove the COP and spray some more penetrating oil in the well, not too much, you want this oil to assist in removal.

6. Depending on the severity of the corrosion, this is where it takes PAITENCE.
Turn plug - CCW about a 1/4 Turn and then go back CW 1/4 Turn
Turn Plug - CCW about 1/2 Turn and then go back CW 1/4 Turn
Continue this process of baby stepping the plug out.
You are using the penetrating oil as a lubricant on the threads to help soften the corrosion, when you do the CCW / CW procedures you are letting the penetrating oil coat further down the threads (CCW) and cleaning the threads (CW)

If you were to continue CCW (ONLY) then the corrosion on the threads builds up to a point of needing extra removal torque (Seized) and the plug ends up breaking

Once the plug breaks, you have to use an easy out and pray it works, if it does not then it requires pulling the head.

Once out use a good used plug soaked with penetrating oil and install and remove a few times to help clean the threads in the head (remaining corrosion)

 

[Kemtooler]

76,675 miles and mine did this today. What was the end result at the dealer? Mine showed no codes and the MIL was gone after several seconds and APPEARS to run ok, but I'm not confident that it's just gone and "fixed" itself.

 

[db_tanker]

End result was stress, fresh set of plugs and one replacement boot.

I wish they or some third party would come up with a redesigned COP boot that seals better?

D

 

[Jason B]

End result was stress, fresh set of plugs and one replacement boot.

I wish they or some third party would come up with a redesigned COP boot that seals better?

D

A better sealing COP boot wouldn't stop the plug from rusting in the head. The ultimate fix is to prevent water from getting in the engine in the first place.

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