Ranger Starting issue - Not the fuel pump

[Jason B]

There should be a Shrader valve (like on a tire) on the fuel rail. Remove the cap and depress the pin. If the pump was working, fuel should spray. But chances are the pump is bad. I have had replacement aftermarket pumps on 3 different vehicles that died within 2 years of installation.

Here's a link to older Ranger forums: Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource
That may of more help to you.

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[airline tech]

I would have to check if the 94 has the Schrader or not, but yes as I posted above earlier you will have to crank engine to bleed if the pump, if testing consecutively- key cycles

 

[TJC]

So in my case if the trucks been sitting a while it will start first crank. But if I've been driving and stop for say 30 mins and try to restart I have to key it 2 or 3 times.

When my pump failed, the symptoms were gradual, and ended up requiring me to cycle the ignition 3 times to get the truck to start. It simply would not prime fully on the first start. Now no matter the time, it starts immediately...no waiting for the 3 second prime to end.

Your experience sounds like vapor lock or a fuel pump perhaps over heating and failing.

If an injector or fuel regulator were leaking you'd see the fuel pressure drop with a consistent pattern. The check valve on the pump can be ruled out as well. It fails much like the injectors or regulators.

 

[9zero1790]

When my pump failed, the symptoms were gradual, and ended up requiring me to cycle the ignition 3 times to get the truck to start. It simply would not prime fully on the first start. Now no matter the time, it starts immediately...no waiting for the 3 second prime to end.

Your experience sounds like vapor lock or a fuel pump perhaps over heating and failing.

If an injector or fuel regulator were leaking you'd see the fuel pressure drop with a consistent pattern. The check valve on the pump can be ruled out as well. It fails much like the injectors or regulators.

thanks tony! it could vapor lock or a pump. Im almost afraid to mess with it at this point. its near 150k and has always done it... my luck it will work till im in a bad area on a super hot day.

 

[TJC]

Your best bet is to check your pump pressure. You can always pull the pressure side of the fuel filter and temporarily attach a fuel pressure gauge (~$25) with a small piece of fuel line (an inexpensive kit will include the line), then watch the pump when you turn the key to on. You should see a rapid rise then constant pressure and it should stay high when the pump stops. This should all happen in that 3 seconds. If the pressure does not rise or immediately falls, it is the pump assy.

You can test it when the truck is hot. Drive the truck until it exhibits the symptoms. Then attach the gauge and turn the key on to begin the test. The fuel filter in my 2005 Ranger is located in the fuel line below the back of the driver's door. It has a single output, and two fuel lines on the input side. The smaller line is the return line (leave it attached) Disconnect the larger diameter line and attached the fuel line with the gauge.

If your Ranger is different, and has no return line simply attach to the line that feeds the filter.

Best of luck,

T

 

[9zero1790]

Your best bet is to check your pump pressure. You can always pull the pressure side of the fuel filter and temporarily attach a fuel pressure gauge (~$25) with a small piece of fuel line (an inexpensive kit will include the line), then watch the pump when you turn the key to on. You should see a rapid rise then constant pressure and it should stay high when the pump stops. This should all happen in that 3 seconds. If the pressure does not rise or immediately falls, it is the pump assy.

You can test it when the truck is hot. Drive the truck until it exhibits the symptoms. Then attach the gauge and turn the key on to begin the test. The fuel filter in my 2005 Ranger is located in the fuel line below the back of the driver's door. It has a single output, and two fuel lines on the input side. The smaller line is the return line (leave it attached) Disconnect the larger diameter line and attached the fuel line with the gauge.

If your Ranger is different, and has no return line simply attach to the line that feeds the filter.

Best of luck,

T

Thank you tony! mine is the same fuel setup and filter with 2 lines and one. I will give it a try this summer.

 

[TJC]

thanks tony! it could vapor lock or a pump. Im almost afraid to mess with it at this point. its near 150k and has always done it... my luck it will work till im in a bad area on a super hot day.

BTW, my 2005 Ranger fuel pump started exhibiting signs that it was beginning to fail at 140K, and kept getting weaker until I changed it out at 155K, when it took 3 turns of the key to get pressure up enough to start. Since replacing the engine runs much smoother. I think the low pressure was having an effect on the injectors as well.

 

[9zero1790]

BTW, my 2005 Ranger fuel pump started exhibiting signs that it was beginning to fail at 140K, and kept getting weaker until I changed it out at 155K, when it took 3 turns of the key to get pressure up enough to start. Since replacing the engine runs much smoother. I think the low pressure was having an effect on the injectors as well.

i think you nailed it! mine has occasional slightly rough idle and ive always blamed fuel or filter. I bet it it is the pump.

 

[Jason B]

Also have a friend help. Open the gas cap and listen for a hum or whine while your friend turns the key to on.

 

[Digbird1]

That's possible, I don't hear anything, but the mechanic that came over didn't hear it prime after determining the motor wasn't getting gas. I'm not really sure what you mean by "Already under pressure"

 

[TJC]

i think you nailed it! mine has occasional slightly rough idle and ive always blamed fuel or filter. I bet it it is the pump.

I replaced 2 filters and cleaned the injectors prior to replacing the pump with a Ford pump, and my pump never stopped running completely. It just could not produce the pressure needed. So hearing it run means it is running and not electrical, it does not eliminate a weak pump or a bad check valve in the pump assembly.

 

[TJC]

i think you nailed it! mine has occasional slightly rough idle and ive always blamed fuel or filter. I bet it it is the pump.

The injectors start acting wacky when the pressure is too low. I had an uneven exhaust sound when throttling the engine except it sounded like an exhaust leak at the manifold. Cruising was fine, but any strain and the exhaust note would pulse or thump... hard to explain until you hear it.

 

[airline tech]

That's possible, I don't hear anything, but the mechanic that came over didn't hear it prime after determining the motor wasn't getting gas. I'm not really sure what you mean by "Already under pressure"

Think of it as a garden hose - sprayer nozzle, fuel pressure up to the fuel pressure regulator.
Pressure is held until - engine crank or pressure bleeds off, if you cycle key in quick succession the pressure will still be built up, unless you are cranking it.

 

[TJC]

And if the check valve in the fuel pump assembly has failed, as soon as the 3 second run on the pump stops (when you turn the key on), the pressure will go to 0.

I tested my 2005 Ranger before and after installing the new pump. Fuel pressure dropped immediately on the original faulty pump. Pressure stays high on the new pump indefinitely. I can let it sit 2 weeks and it fires right up.

No need to wait even 3 seconds to start any longer. I get in, turn the key, and it starts immediately. Doesn't even make a full revolution.

Changing the pump assembly will put less wear on your starter and battery as well.

 

[9zero1790]

And if the check valve in the fuel pump assembly has failed, as soon as the 3 second run on the pump stops (when you turn the key on), the pressure will go to 0.

I tested my 2005 Ranger before and after installing the new pump. Fuel pressure dropped immediately on the original faulty pump. Pressure stays high on the new pump indefinitely. I can let it sit 2 weeks and it fires right up.

No need to wait even 3 seconds to start any longer. I get in, turn the key, and it starts immediately. Doesn't even make a full revolution.

Changing the pump assembly will put less wear on your starter and battery as well.

hmm this would be part of the reason i kill a battery in two years instead of four lol.

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