Ford licensed TBC Install Instructions

[Stevedbvik1]

Update on this. Dealer checked the wiring, everything is connected correctly. The Redarc ECU will not power up. Emailed Lumen again to see if they will help.

This has been such a pain, I just want to tow my trailer.

Had mine back to the dealer 4 times. First 3 times they said everything was wired correctly. The 4th time they found that it was wired incorrectly. ?‍

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[RangerBill]

Update on this. Dealer checked the wiring, everything is connected correctly. The Redarc ECU will not power up. Emailed Lumen again to see if they will help.

This has been such a pain, I just want to tow my trailer.

I think that you should try to get warranty from Ford, as they supplied the parts for the kit. As was mentioned, the Lumen module is unlikely to cause the Redarc unit to not power on.

 

[maxbottomtime]

I tore down the inline module that comes with the Ford version of the kit. I put my notes below from a post i made on FB...

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Trailer Brake Controller Kit (Official) info --

For those interested, I got one of the ford official RedArc kits. I already have one, but they don't sell the "brake light interface" part of it standalone. Luckily my dad needed a brake controller for his 2014 Pilot, so I'll give him mine, and install the full official kit in the Ranger this weekend.

Otherwise, I figured I'd take a detailed look at it since I was curious as to how they built the inline brake light interface. Honestly the whole system seems needlessly complicated, but at the same time, the only option since someone at Ford obviously forgot to figure this out before production.

Essentially what the kit does, is instead of taking the BRAKE signal directly from the pedal (which is what the current "Red Wire" out of the 4 does) it pulls the "Brake Activation" signal directly from the rear HRMBL (high rear mount brake light).

Why does it pull from that one? Well, it appears that it is the easiest way to get that signal, without going outside the cabin, and without spending more $$$ on building a CANBUS interface to read the activation.

What's inside the little box that connects between the brake light harness and the brake controller?
I figured it woudl either be a simple Opto Isolator or transitor setup for the signal. But it turns out it's a bit more complicated than I thought. They are using a "Digital Switch" N-Channel Mosfet chip and another Power Driver chip to basically read the signal from the light, and switch the "brake" input into the RedArc. So with this setup, the original "Brake Input" wire under the dash is not used, as that only took its signal from the brake pedal directly, and thus wouldn't know whne the vehicle automatically aplied the brakes.

The harness literally goes in-line with the rear brake light, just to get the signal.

Hi Ethan,

appreciate all you've done for the community (and I'm still rocking your bed outlet). Is there anything between the BCM CHMSL and the rear light? i.e. would you tap here and save ripping up your interior? https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/chmsl-3rd-brake-light-strobe-module.13282/

 

[djsilver]

I bought the full setup with both controllers. My Brother and I spent a good part of a day installing it and it was a "pain in the ass" for two old farts old enough to collect social security! That said, I wouldn't want to be towing a trailer and have the AEB system not engage the trailer brakes. I've never been passed by my own trailer and don't want to start now!

 

[Geoff]

I bought the full setup with both controllers. My Brother and I spent a good part of a day installing it and it was a "pain in the ass" for two old farts old enough to collect social security! That said, I wouldn't want to be towing a trailer and have the AEB system not engage the trailer brakes. I've never been passed by my own trailer and don't want to start now!

I read earlier posts on how to find the CHMSL signal behind the fuse panel. Seems like it would be easier to tap into that rather than run the wires back to the light. But The Lumen module is evidently filtering the CHMSL signal so I'll do the full Ford Install....ugh...not looking forward to it....
Any tips for this old fart also collecting SS?

 

[Geoff]

Just to follow up I completed the Ford Brake Controller install. I took my time and broke up the install into 3 parts. First part was installing the Control switch which I mounted near the shifter. I spent the better part of the next afternoon routing the wire to the CHMSL. Instructions are very lean and definitely not clear when it comes to inserting the pins into the grey or black connector shells. They fail to mention if you install pins or sockets in which connector. I examined the vehicle connectors to determine which pins go in which connector shells. On the 3rd day I mounted the boxes and completed the wiring. This was the only day I disconnected the battery.
That said, I again found the instructions somewhat lacking with regard to mounting the Redac controller. To get it to fit snugly, and securely, I sawed off the mounting flange on one side of the unit. This allowed it to fit the space shown in the drawings much more securely. Only broke one clip in the process.....! It's now ready for towing!

 

[Stevedbvik1]

Just an observation. Had our controller installed by dealer. All kinds of drama and 4 trips to them to get it right. Initially towed a Surveyor 19BHLE . Worked “ok” but had random times of the lights on the knob not displaying correctly when hooked up. And a few times when it didn’t seem like it was performing its assigned duties. Traded the Surveyor for a Gulf Stream 24RLS. Hooked it up the first time and it worked flawlessly. Hasn’t missed a beat in three trips now. Now I’m wondering what was up with the Surveyor.

 

[Geoff]

Just an observation. Had our controller installed by dealer. All kinds of drama and 4 trips to them to get it right. Initially towed a Surveyor 19BHLE . Worked “ok” but had random times of the lights on the knob not displaying correctly when hooked up. And a few times when it didn’t seem like it was performing its assigned duties. Traded the Surveyor for a Gulf Stream 24RLS. Hooked it up the first time and it worked flawlessly. Hasn’t missed a beat in three trips now. Now I’m wondering what was up with the Surveyor.

I'm still looking for a travel trailer but I wanted to get my truck ready.
I think the issue you had with the Surveyor might be addressed on the Redarc site (I seem to recall they had a resistor fix for something like that - it's dependent of the type of brake system the trailer uses.

I tested mine with an old 1157 lamp I had sitting around. I left it connected and went for a short drive and the Redarc calibrated within a short time. It seems to work fine but I had access to a dump trailer w/brakes so I connected to it. I could then make mode changes and within a short period my truck popped up the trailer connected message. All seems fine. ?

 

[omgtdibbq]

I had the authorized Ford Tow Pro Elite/Lumens installed a couple of week ago by my local dealership. With Fordpass points and discount coupon it cost me less than $300 installed. So far so good., but without a trailer, I had no way to test it. I believe I was either the first or second customer to ever have it installed at this dealership....

The next week I rented a pop-up camper (about 2,500 lbs) and took the family on a camping trip to Southern Utah. After I got underway, I noticed my trailer brakes weren't working. The little knob just flashed blue and green - no red. I found that I could get the trailer brakes to work if I pushed the manual over-ride. This is how I managed to brake the trailer for the nearly 600 mile round trip. Scary, but manageable.

Having read several post about people having similar issues, I checked to see if the CHMSL light was working - it was. All the trailer brakes, turn signals, etc. were working as well.

I took it back to the dealership when I returned. After about a hour and half, the service tech tells me that they checked all the wiring and the controller should be working. I asked had they used a trailer brake tester or an actual trailer to test it? No, but that's a great idea they said.

They hooked it up to a trailer and sure enough no brakes - but not to worry, they fixed it. The service tech told me they had to reprogram it, and once they did it no longer flashed blue and green, and that it turned red when applying the brakes, and that the trailer brakes were working.

Now I didn't see any of what the service tech described, and have no trailer to test with. Before I rent another trailer (most likely a larger one), has anyone else had this problem? if so, what "programming" should I have to do in the future should it not work?

Thanks

Resurrecting this old post because it's one of few I can find that has the exact same symptoms I'm experiencing. The RedArc + Lumen TBC I've had installed on my 2019 won't calibrate and doesn't send brake power under braking. Manual override does, though.

@MagneticRed, Did your TBC end up working just after a recalibration?

 

[MagneticRed]

Resurrecting this old post because it's one of few I can find that has the exact same symptoms I'm experiencing. The RedArc + Lumen TBC I've had installed on my 2019 won't calibrate and doesn't send brake power under braking. Manual override does, though.

@MagneticRed, Did your TBC end up working just after a recalibration?

Wow, I had forgotten how aggravating that was. In short, yes the recalibration or re-programming did the trick. I have since logged a few thousand miles pulling a Jayco 21QBW (about 5000 pounds if I recall) and my trailer brakes have worked flawlessly.

 

[Big Blue]

When the Redarc controller it is flashing green/blue it is calibrating the internal enertia sensors to the modules orientation in the vehicle. It needs to do this on initial power up, or if the module gets moved. I've had mine to it after a battery disconnect. I usually takes a couple miles of driving with several stops to complete. The module needs to know what direction the front of the vehicle is to judge braking force. The the light will be solid green and red/purple when brakes applied. And yes you must have a trailer plugged in to activate the controller. It tests for a load on the brake wire to bring the controller out of sleep mode, so you will not get a steady green light without a trailer plugged in.

I just have the basic Redarc controller, as Ford did not have their kit out when I bought my truck and needed a controller. They still work the same just Ford triggers it from the CMHSL instead of the brake pedal switch.

 

[omgtdibbq]

Wow, I had forgotten how aggravating that was. In short, yes the recalibration or re-programming did the trick. I have since logged a few thousand miles pulling a Jayco 21QBW (about 5000 pounds if I recall) and my trailer brakes have worked flawlessly.

Replying here with an update in case anyone else has as similar issue. The dealer did some sort of reprogramming (not calibrating) of the TBC and also the TRM in the truck which did not solve the issue for me. TRM shows no codes. TBC shows no faults. They re-checked all wiring and connections including those related to other known issues (e.g. corrosion in the 7-pin connectors). They engaged Ford corporate who have decided the TBC itself must be faulty and are covering a return under the part warranty, and I'll update again here if that solves the problem. I asked the dealer what it would take to replace the TRM if the TBC replacement doesn't work, and this is a very labor-intensive job requiring taking apart much of the dash, pulling down the headliner, and more.

 

[Big Blue]

Replying here with an update in case anyone else has as similar issue. The dealer did some sort of reprogramming (not calibrating) of the TBC and also the TRM in the truck which did not solve the issue for me. TRM shows no codes. TBC shows no faults. They re-checked all wiring and connections including those related to other known issues (e.g. corrosion in the 7-pin connectors). They engaged Ford corporate who have decided the TBC itself must be faulty and are covering a return under the part warranty, and I'll update again here if that solves the problem. I asked the dealer what it would take to replace the TRM if the TBC replacement doesn't work, and this is a very labor-intensive job requiring taking apart much of the dash, pulling down the headliner, and more.

Your dealer needs to brush up on the Ranger. The TRM is mounted in the passenger side footwear behind the TCU (Telemetric Control Unit) to the right of the glove box. No tearing apart of the dash or headliner required.

 

[Stevedbvik1]

Replying here with an update in case anyone else has as similar issue. The dealer did some sort of reprogramming (not calibrating) of the TBC and also the TRM in the truck which did not solve the issue for me. TRM shows no codes. TBC shows no faults. They re-checked all wiring and connections including those related to other known issues (e.g. corrosion in the 7-pin connectors). They engaged Ford corporate who have decided the TBC itself must be faulty and are covering a return under the part warranty, and I'll update again here if that solves the problem. I asked the dealer what it would take to replace the TRM if the TBC replacement doesn't work, and this is a very labor-intensive job requiring taking apart much of the dash, pulling down the headliner, and more.

You should contact Lumen and have them speak with the tech that’s working on your truck. They know the Ranger inside and out. They helped my dealer get it straightened out and have helped several others on this forum also.

 

[Kinad]

Has anyone installed this licensed TBC by tappinng into CHMSL under the dash?

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