Noise from the drivers side front wheel hub assembly

[ChiefQM]

In the last day or so, I have noticed a noise that I believe is coming from my left front wheel. It sounds like a wheel bearing is going. I did a search on this forum for threads dealing with this issue. It appears that the hub must be replaced. I did not find any YouTube videos dealing with this issue on the 5G Ranger, but I did find Front Wheel Bearing Assembly for sale at Auto Zone for $267, fortunately for me it is still under warranty. Has anybody else faced this issue?

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[Msfitoy]

How many miles on your truck? Hub bearing typically can last well over 100K miles...

Have you verified it's the bearing by jacking up that side and rotating the wheel?

 

[ChiefQM]

How many miles on your truck? Hub bearing typically can last well over 100K miles...

Have you verified it's the bearing by jacking up that side and rotating the wheel?

43300 miles. I will do that tomorrow. I hear it when I turn more so than going forward; it is not the popping sounds of a bad CV joint but a rythemic rasping sound. I presume I can check it like I would do a 2wd wheel bearing, jacking the wheel up and checking for play side to side and up and down, then spinning the tire with the wheel straight ahead as well as turned right and left. Suggestions are welcome.

 

[Msfitoy]

43300 miles. I will do that tomorrow. I hear it when I turn more so than going forward; it is not the popping sounds of a bad CV joint but a rythemic rasping sound. I presume I can check it like I would do a 2wd wheel bearing, jacking the wheel up and checking for play side to side and up and down, then spinning the tire with the wheel straight ahead as well as turned right and left. Suggestions are welcome.

hmmmm...let's hope it's just a worn brake pad...

 

[ChiefQM]

hmmmm...let's hope it's just a worn brake pad...

Yeah, I will check that too. I checked them about 10K ago and they had lots of life left, though. Hopefully it will be the pads...

 

[Frenchy]

Not a.bad idea to take it into a local shop you trust to make sure. At the low of miles I would be a little suspicious

 

[airline tech]

A bad hub bearing will be more of a roaring noise and be noted in straight ahead driving.
A slightly bent, backing plate aka disc shield is most likely the noise - Rotor rubbing against it in a turn. (By your description - rythemic rasping sound) is the thin plate echoing the noise of the rubbing rotor and it is most likely the outer edge of the plate rubbing along the top edge of the rotor.
Just slightly bend it away from the rotor and also check for a small piece of gravel possibly wedged in between the backing plate and rotor.

If you inspect closely, you will see a spot of clean metal on the backing plate.

This is the part I am referring:

 

[Cmar]

At that mileage should be within warranty. Unfortunately a press is required to replace the bearing as it is a press fit in the knuckle. If you are out of warranty and don't have the required tools then a replacement knuckle might be the way to go and then send the other to a machine shop to repair as a spare.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

I’ve had hub bearings become worn in a couple of earlier Rangers but only at much higher mileage. Like @airline tech says, hub bearing failure is more of a roar - like a jet engine - or like the fan in our Rangers when we first start them cold.

One easy way to test for hub bearing failure can be done while driving. Enter a long curve to the right and if it is the driver side hub bearing, the roar should increase (noticeably) with the centrifugal force and decrease as you exit the curve. Try a curve to the left and there should be no real difference in the sound - maybe a slight decrease or it might even disappear until you straighten out. If there is an S-curve nearby, that would be perfect.

It’s a distinctive roar or howl - not the rhythmic rasping you describe. I had a sticky rear brake shoe on an older Ranger and that’s exactly how I would have described that sound. However, what you hear, is what YOU hear and could be different from what others hear.

If the S-curve test indicates hub assembly, let the service advisor know how it behaved in the curve - they may even do the same road test. I’m sure they will anyway, but still have them check the pads or backing plate for issues.

Good luck with this.

 

[MarioCart]

When I had a wheel bearing fail on my 89 Ranger, it gave me initial indications as a rumble.
It deteriorated fairly fast and would lock up the wheel in slippery conditions. Not fun on an icy highway.
The side effect as it broke down was the anti lock brake sensor grinding away at the ring and it added other noises obviously.
Immediately the shop denied warranty for "4x4 in deep water" when in fact I had never been off road with it.
you can do some sleuthing fairly easy in your driveway as some have mentioned. Do that before you go to a dealer. They might not be fair on their assessment

 

[ChiefQM]

I just jacked up the left front wheel. After inspecting behind the wheel and tire for any damage (none visible) and no signs of any liquid anywhere it shouldn't be, I gently spun the wheel forward and backward. I could feel a definite rumble and did not hear any scraping, rasping or screeching (metal on metal) noises. I am still thinking bearing failure. I will contact the dealer (it's still under warranty, as it was a certified pre-owned vehicle) to have them check it. I will drive it later today and listen carefully in a curved section of roadway.

 

[kendive]

This is a pretty good thread with lots of good info.

I remember from the F150 days if there was noise in the hub it's either the wheel hub or the IWE's

We don't have IWE's thank goodness...




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[JohnnyO]

If you get a new wheel bearing, insist that the dealer torque the hub nut to the proper spec.
I went through 9 of them on my old Sport Trac in the first 100,000 miles, all replaced on warranty or extended warranty. Traced the early failures to the dealer tightening the hub nut with an impact wrench to save time instead of torquing it to the proper spec.
Had one go out when I was in Florida and had both replaced by a dealer there who did it correctly, drove it for another 60k after that until I traded it in and no more problems with the wheel bearings.

 

[ChiefQM]

If you get a new wheel bearing, insist that the dealer torque the hub nut to the proper spec.
I went through 9 of them on my old Sport Trac in the first 100,000 miles, all replaced on warranty or extended warranty. Traced the early failures to the dealer tightening the hub nut with an impact wrench to save time instead of torquing it to the proper spec.
Had one go out when I was in Florida and had both replaced by a dealer there who did it correctly, drove it for another 60k after that until I traded it in and no more problems with the wheel bearings.

I have learned to check the torque specs myself. Thanks

 

[Justin says...]

It's your front driveshaft. Just had the dealer replace mine. Noise I heard was a "swish swish swish" - 1x per wheel revolution - at low speeds with the driver's window down.

Does it happen with the engine off? (you'll have to test by rolling down a hill)

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