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Taillight melted

Capt Jon

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While the fuse cannot measure current, it should blow when the current through it exceeds its rating. The problem is the wiring after the fuse may not be rated for the same current the fuse on the circuit is. Take for example a 20A fuse to 5 4A loads, the wiring to a single load on the circuit may only be rated for 5A (still 25% over the device's intended load) for its given gauge and length. But should that part malfunction in a way that it's drawing 15A, it will burn up the wire and still not blow the fuse.
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Capt Jon

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True. Most electronics like the sensing components in the tail light are most likely not able to handle larger current loads that would not be enough to trip the fuse. Looking at where the damage is without being able to inspect the light I would suspect an internal component failure, not the lamp itself.
 
OP
OP
Stephen Abbene

Stephen Abbene

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Dropped it off today. I put my bike rack on it to drive it over because it has turn signals and brake lights and I didn't want to drive around with signals. The first thing they did was call me and try to blame the bike rack, that is plugged into the stock 4pin trailer plug. I do not have high confidence in this going well.
 

JimG_AZ

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Dropped it off today. I put my bike rack on it to drive it over because it has turn signals and brake lights and I didn't want to drive around with signals. The first thing they did was call me and try to blame the bike rack, that is plugged into the stock 4pin trailer plug. I do not have high confidence in this going well.
Wow! Good luck!
 

SigOris

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Why I always run one way diodes when tapping factory systems.

Nothing is full proof, but that one step drops the probability a lot.
There’s a two way diode?????
 


Max Crafter

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Dropped it off today. I put my bike rack on it to drive it over because it has turn signals and brake lights and I didn't want to drive around with signals. The first thing they did was call me and try to blame the bike rack, that is plugged into the stock 4pin trailer plug. I do not have high confidence in this going well.
Its part of Fords customer service training, to seek, identify, and blame anything a customer has done that might get them out of paying warranty.
 

SigOris

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I guess the technical term is diode blocker.
A diode can serve many purposes: rectifier, detector, isolator…..

an oversimplification is that a diode is to electricity what a check valve is to fluids

standing by to get flame sprayed by the EXACTOS
 

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Any signs of a mouse getting in there and chewing the wires?
 

got3fords

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A diode can serve many purposes: rectifier, detector, isolator…..

an oversimplification is that a diode is to electricity what a check valve is to fluids

standing by to get flame sprayed by the EXACTOS
Well there are anti-parallel diodes, but it incorporates two 'one-way' diodes.
1686672991371.webp
 

Chris M

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That's all well and good, but do we yet know what actually happened here?
 

OFC Ranger

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A diode can serve many purposes: rectifier, detector, isolator…..

an oversimplification is that a diode is to electricity what a check valve is to fluids

standing by to get flame sprayed by the EXACTOS

Bro all I know is I put the dikfer thing on that doo-dad and it stops the zap zap from going dis way and dat.
 

DaveT

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That's all well and good, but do we yet know what actually happened here?
Exactly my question. We have dozens of people speculating and discussing the complex nature of this circuit (at least complex for most people) -- and we have still not heard what the dealer will or has done about fixing it. I seriously doubt that the OP will be able to fix it himself, (I certainly couldn't) or even understand half of the speculations here. Let's hear results from the dealer!
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