Carrier Bearing Shot

[peterson1604]

Started hearing a whining noise so I brought my Ranger into the dealer. Ended up being the carrier bearing so they'll replace the entire two-piece drive shaft. Only 31,000 mi on it so under warranty. But hopefully this isn't a continuing problem. Why Ford hasn't gone to a one-piece drive shaft is beyond me!

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[AzScorpion]

Sorry to hear Scott but glad you got it fixed under warranty. I know there's a whole thread and discussion about the one piece DS and this is a good example why it should be. Hopefully you don't have any more issues with it.

 

[Highlander]

Sorry to hear Scott but glad you got it fixed under warranty. I know there's a whole thread and discussion about the one piece DS and this is a good example why it should be. Hopefully you don't have any more issues with it.

Old school, midmounted divorced transfercase. That could also end the cons of the long one piece driveshaft as well.

Frank

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Hi folks,

I avoid the POS thread on one piece driveshafts. Way too much "walk on water, From the Named D/S maker or his lacky" One piece is a good solution if not a small steel shaft, (Cheap). Aluminum or composite or Larger diameter steel ( won't package in the Ranger) get the critical speed above the driving speed Range. Otherwise it is a problem at 80 mph as I recall. Lacky challenge me on the other thread and baits me as his paycheck is from driveshaft maker. I do not endorse any non OEM parts but to get it right is not on the radar screen as I see it. 4G Rangers had an Aluminum shaft for that reason.

So the cost of Aluminum D/S vs steel with a center bearing should still pan out for Aluminum for the Ranger, but somehow the Ranger Program folks and the bean counters decided the 2 piece should be used. Likely due to F Series aluminum requirements. I am not party of why this decision was made. Does not vindicate current steel driveshaft makers that we have.... Probably because this issue of start shudder is a small proportion of Rangers.

When we raced Rangers on the Road Courses of the SCCA series, we were concerned about D/S speed. Driveshaft engineer made special driveshafts with increased wall thickness for us . Never had a failure with them... We never ran production driveshafts as they would likely not have made more than one race without replacement...

I have said my postion.... This is my opinion and my opinion only. Hand me data to show otherwise and I wlll review.... Likely never to come from a reputable source of OEM which I would embrace.

Best,
Phil

 

[D Fresh]

I avoid the POS thread on one piece driveshafts. Way too much "walk on water, From the Named D/S maker or his lacky" One piece is a good solution if not a small steel shaft, (Cheap). Aluminum or composite or Larger diameter steel ( won't package in the Ranger) get the critical speed above the driving speed Range. Otherwise it is a problem at 80 mph as I recall.

No dog in this, but IIRC critical speed for the TW one piece was calculated at 110 mph. Same as the the factory 2 piece, and likely the reason for the factory speed governor.

 

[Frenchy]

Hi folks,

I avoid the POS thread on one piece driveshafts. Way too much "walk on water, From the Named D/S maker or his lacky" One piece is a good solution if not a small steel shaft, (Cheap). Aluminum or composite or Larger diameter steel ( won't package in the Ranger) get the critical speed above the driving speed Range. Otherwise it is a problem at 80 mph as I recall. Lacky challenge me on the other thread and baits me as his paycheck is from driveshaft maker. I do not endorse any non OEM parts but to get it right is not on the radar screen as I see it. 4G Rangers had an Aluminum shaft for that reason.

So the cost of Aluminum D/S vs steel with a center bearing should still pan out for Aluminum for the Ranger, but somehow the Ranger Program folks and the bean counters decided the 2 piece should be used. Likely due to F Series aluminum requirements. I am not party of why this decision was made. Does not vindicate current steel driveshaft makers that we have.... Probably because this issue of start shudder is a small proportion of Rangers.

When we raced Rangers on the Road Courses of the SCCA series, we were concerned about D/S speed. Driveshaft engineer made special driveshafts with increased wall thickness for us . Never had a failure with them... We never ran production driveshafts as they would likely not have made more than one race without replacement...

I have said my postion.... This is my opinion and my opinion only. Hand me data to show otherwise and I wlll review.... Likely never to come from a reputable source of OEM which I would embrace.

Best,
Phil

I will agree with you on this. If anything I'm still suprised about the fact on how the driveshaft is not 100% set for the U-Joint angles. I know this was covered a long time ago and i feel Ford made a big Mistake there. Who knows, might be that oh so wonderful person in that department that your are not so fond of......

 

[Frenchy]

Started hearing a whining noise so I brought my Ranger into the dealer. Ended up being the carrier bearing so they'll replace the entire two-piece drive shaft. Only 31,000 mi on it so under warranty. But hopefully this isn't it. Continuing problem. Why Ford hasn't gone to a one-piece drive shaft is beyond me!

Good that it is veeing taken care of under warranty. I am suprised the bearing isn't available by itself.

 

[Shoran12]

Hi folks,

I avoid the POS thread on one piece driveshafts. Way too much "walk on water, From the Named D/S maker or his lacky" One piece is a good solution if not a small steel shaft, (Cheap). Aluminum or composite or Larger diameter steel ( won't package in the Ranger) get the critical speed above the driving speed Range. Otherwise it is a problem at 80 mph as I recall. Lacky challenge me on the other thread and baits me as his paycheck is from driveshaft maker. I do not endorse any non OEM parts but to get it right is not on the radar screen as I see it. 4G Rangers had an Aluminum shaft for that reason.

So the cost of Aluminum D/S vs steel with a center bearing should still pan out for Aluminum for the Ranger, but somehow the Ranger Program folks and the bean counters decided the 2 piece should be used. Likely due to F Series aluminum requirements. I am not party of why this decision was made. Does not vindicate current steel driveshaft makers that we have.... Probably because this issue of start shudder is a small proportion of Rangers.

When we raced Rangers on the Road Courses of the SCCA series, we were concerned about D/S speed. Driveshaft engineer made special driveshafts with increased wall thickness for us . Never had a failure with them... We never ran production driveshafts as they would likely not have made more than one race without replacement...

I have said my postion.... This is my opinion and my opinion only. Hand me data to show otherwise and I wlll review.... Likely never to come from a reputable source of OEM which I would embrace.

Best,
Phil

Phil, curious if you could help me wrap my head around this driveshaft shudder. I have a 22 STX with a definite takeoff shudder in 1st. It’s not as bad as others have mentioned. I plan on changing leaf springs, coilovers, and shocks in an attempt to improve what I would consider a very stiff ride over small road imperfections and a rather soft ride over larger bumps, which is why I’m not doing anything at the moment to fix the issue (I worry if I fix it now and do any upgrades after it will come back). I have only ever driven trucks (other than my wife’s Highlander, I’ve only been in cars probably 20 times in my life, probably half being taxis), so it’s while ride quality is subjective, I’m comparing trucks to trucks. Anyways, since my problem with the shudder is small, doesn’t bother me too much, I’m wondering if it’s even worth trying to fix if it remains the same through the suspension upgrade process. I’m also wondering why some trucks have it and others don’t? I’m no way qualified to comment on why this occurs so I figured I’d ask an expert such as yourself in a long winded question lol. What is changing from truck to truck to cause this? Or what causes this issue in the first place. Some have had luck with shims and others found themselves chasing their tails and going to a one piece drive shaft. One member had his shudder improve by changing over to the global leaf springs. In the future I may try to fix this myself because time at the dealership near me is a full day lost of pay. Ive been waiting for a number of months on a windshield adhesive recall so I may ask about the shudder at that point (after the changes I plan on making) or may decide to save myself any trouble and live with it.

 

[SigOris]

Hi folks,

I avoid the POS thread on one piece driveshafts. Way too much "walk on water, From the Named D/S maker or his lacky" One piece is a good solution if not a small steel shaft, (Cheap). Aluminum or composite or Larger diameter steel ( won't package in the Ranger) get the critical speed above the driving speed Range. Otherwise it is a problem at 80 mph as I recall. Lacky challenge me on the other thread and baits me as his paycheck is from driveshaft maker. I do not endorse any non OEM parts but to get it right is not on the radar screen as I see it. 4G Rangers had an Aluminum shaft for that reason.

So the cost of Aluminum D/S vs steel with a center bearing should still pan out for Aluminum for the Ranger, but somehow the Ranger Program folks and the bean counters decided the 2 piece should be used. Likely due to F Series aluminum requirements. I am not party of why this decision was made. Does not vindicate current steel driveshaft makers that we have.... Probably because this issue of start shudder is a small proportion of Rangers.

When we raced Rangers on the Road Courses of the SCCA series, we were concerned about D/S speed. Driveshaft engineer made special driveshafts with increased wall thickness for us . Never had a failure with them... We never ran production driveshafts as they would likely not have made more than one race without replacement...

I have said my postion.... This is my opinion and my opinion only. Hand me data to show otherwise and I wlll review.... Likely never to come from a reputable source of OEM which I would embrace.

Best,
Phil

writing as a fellow retired engineer, that other person carried themselves in a very professional manner in the discussion and didn’t take an adolescent path in his responses to the discussion

this is my opinion and my opinion only

John

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Phil, curious if you could help me wrap my head around this driveshaft shudder. I have a 22 STX with a definite takeoff shudder in 1st. It’s not as bad as others have mentioned. I plan on changing leaf springs, coilovers, and shocks in an attempt to improve what I would consider a very stiff ride over small road imperfections and a rather soft ride over larger bumps, which is why I’m not doing anything at the moment to fix the issue (I worry if I fix it now and do any upgrades after it will come back). I have only ever driven trucks (other than my wife’s Highlander, I’ve only been in cars probably 20 times in my life, probably half being taxis), so it’s while ride quality is subjective, I’m comparing trucks to trucks. Anyways, since my problem with the shudder is small, doesn’t bother me too much, I’m wondering if it’s even worth trying to fix if it remains the same through the suspension upgrade process. I’m also wondering why some trucks have it and others don’t? I’m no way qualified to comment on why this occurs so I figured I’d ask an expert such as yourself in a long winded question lol. What is changing from truck to truck to cause this? Or what causes this issue in the first place. Some have had luck with shims and others found themselves chasing their tails and going to a one piece drive shaft. One member had his shudder improve by changing over to the global leaf springs. In the future I may try to fix this myself because time at the dealership near me is a full day lost of pay. Ive been waiting for a number of months on a windshield adhesive recall so I may ask about the shudder at that point (after the changes I plan on making) or may decide to save myself any trouble and live with it.

Hi Shane,

Since you are changing suspension items, I would recommend that you wait until you are done to address any fix for the start up shudder. Then measure as outlined in the TSB that addresses how to shim the rear axle to the recommended angle of the pinion flange. See what happens.. hopefully it minimizes start up shudder. The multi leaf design rear springs do have more damping than the monoleaf springs and may aid in dampin the start up shudder as well. As for why some trucks have shudder and some (most?) do not. on the 5g Ranger, I can't really answer.
Some indications are categorized as assembly variation but that is just a guess and I don't necessarily agree with this completely but as development prototypes are such a small sample relative to production, it is possible this condition was not present on the prototypes. Just speculation on my part as I am not part of the program anymore.

Good Luck with your built and hopefully will find the problem minimized or gone.

best,
Phil

 

[Trigganometry]

I’m almost tempted to get a one piece driveshaft out of a Ranger like I had before this one. It had the long bed and served me well for 287K before retirement. See if I can change out yolks and give it a run!

 

[Shoran12]

Hi Shane,

Since you are changing suspension items, I would recommend that you wait until you are done to address any fix for the start up shudder. Then measure as outlined in the TSB that addresses how to shim the rear axle to the recommended angle of the pinion flange. See what happens.. hopefully it minimizes start up shudder. The multi leaf design rear springs do have more damping than the monoleaf springs and may aid in dampin the start up shudder as well. As for why some trucks have shudder and some (most?) do not. on the 5g Ranger, I can't really answer.
Some indications are categorized as assembly variation but that is just a guess and I don't necessarily agree with this completely but as development prototypes are such a small sample relative to production, it is possible this condition was not present on the prototypes. Just speculation on my part as I am not part of the program anymore.

Good Luck with your built and hopefully will find the problem minimized or gone.

best,
Phil

Appreciate it Phil, will do. Thank you for the info.

 

[peterson1604]

Sorry to hear Scott but glad you got it fixed under warranty. I know there's a whole thread and discussion about the one piece DS and this is a good example why it should be. Hopefully you don't have any more issues with it.

Thanks Dave, thankfully I picked up a Ford extended warranty at a great price from Ziegler Ford which might come in handy after the factory warranty is done.

 

[peterson1604]

Good that it is veeing taken care of under warranty. I am suprised the bearing isn't available by itself.

Me too! No wonder Ford's warranty costs are through the roof.

 

[TJC]

I am one of those "lackies" that installed an aftermarket 1 piece steel driveshaft, and after 5000 miles I could not be happier. Shudder is gone. High speed shake above 75mph is gone. And the transmission abnormalities have ceased. It is one very smooth riding truck! Both my wife and I marvel at the difference (she was insisting that I unload the truck prior to adding the new drivehshaft).

I am quite happy with my decision. My truck is now what it should have been when delivered.

In fact, I will go a step further. If anyone wants the old 2 piece driveshaft, you can have it for free. I'd feel guilty selling it. It is sitting on my garage floor taking up space. (I will not ship it.)

- T

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