To warm-up or not to warm-up...

[PltFX4]

Hope @P. A. Schilke chimes in: Was reading that starting the vehicle and letting warm up VS start driving directly is bad, in the long term, for the engine. Several reliable references confirmed this. saying that parts of the engine/trans could be starved of oil, thus accelerating wear.

As it has been -10 around here lately, I use remote start so it's warmer inside when I get in... not per sa to warm the engine to get the oil flowing before a load is put on it by driving.

Given that we use 5w-30 or even 0w-30 and the idle is 1200 to 1500 rpm till the catalytic converter is warmed up, I don't see where the oil starvation would come from.

Your thoughts...

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[AzScorpion]

I always let my vehicles warm up before putting it into D. Let the high idle get down to low idle than drive away. I'd rather waste a little more gas than take a change on the engine not being warmed up and everything being lubed.

 

[RedDakooter05]

I let it warm up until the water-temp starts to move.
Unless it's like 0 degrees, I want the sumbitch half ass warm when I get in...


Anytime I don't, the ranger like all the other trucks I've had drives like shit and can't move out of it's own way.



Edit: Who the hell said the engine is starved of oil if it's idling? Oil begins to flow moment the pump starts spinning. Takes a couple minutes of running til the oil is no longer thick as molasses.

 

[MagneticRanger]

I always let my vehicles warm up before putting it into D. Let the high idle get down to low idle than drive away. I'd rather waste a little more gas than take a change on the engine not being warmed up and everything being lubed.

This sounds good. I'm not sure about all models everywhere but here in Canada my truck did come with a plug in block heater. Although I don't live wayyy up in the north or in the prairies it does get cool enough in the winter in cottage country.

I have a timer I set to activate the heater for a couple hours before I get up for work. I remote start with the app and generally speaking the coolant is now somewhat lukewarm which gets the cab heat going real quick.

As mentioned the truck will high idle but not for long as the coolant gets up to temp quick now being plugged in and will drop to low idle quickly.

My personal preference is to have the engine warmed up enough the temp gauge has moved out from C position to the start of the next segment (if that makes sense) but by no means is this a rule stated anywhere or that anyone must follow just personal preference.

Additionally the block heater really does nothing for the transmission and it's temperature. So some engine idle time helps a bit but in reality the best way to warm up the vehicle is to get it in motion (easing it if cold)

There should be no worries about starvation of oil as long as your level is right and correct viscosity is used.

 

[AzScorpion]

This sounds good. I'm not sure about all models everywhere but here in Canada my truck did come with a plug in block heater. Although I don't live wayyy up in the north or in the prairies it does get cool enough in the winter in cottage country.

I have a timer I set to activate the heater for a couple hours before I get up for work. I remote start with the app and generally speaking the coolant is now somewhat lukewarm which gets the cab heat going real quick.

As mentioned the truck will high idle but not for long as the coolant gets up to temp quick now being plugged in and will drop to low idle quickly.

My personal preference is to have the engine warmed up enough the temp gauge has moved out from C position to the start of the next segment (if that makes sense) but by no means is this a rule stated anywhere or that anyone must follow just personal preference.

Additionally the block heater really does nothing for the transmission and it's temperature. So some engine idle time helps a bit but in reality the best way to warm up the vehicle is to get it in motion (easing it if cold)

There should be no worries about starvation of oil as long as your level is right and correct viscosity is used.

IIRC I think that the block heaters are standard or standard for dealer orders up there. Definitely a nice feature to have when you're living in an area like you do.

Before living here I was in MA. We use to get some very frigid temps where single digit days and sub zero nights weren't uncommon. Plus we snowmobiled all through Northern Maine and Canada where you'd be lucky to see 0 for the high. Always started my F150's this way and never had any problems.

I still do this here even in the summer. I'll remote start my truck and let it sit for 3-5 minutes before jumping in and taking off. At 100+ degrees it doesn't help much pre cooling the cab but it's better than jumping into an oven. ?

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Hope @P. A. Schilke chimes in: Was reading that starting the vehicle and letting warm up VS start driving directly is bad, in the long term, for the engine. Several reliable references confirmed this. saying that parts of the engine/trans could be starved of oil, thus accelerating wear.

As it has been -10 around here lately, I use remote start so it's warmer inside when I get in... not per sa to warm the engine to get the oil flowing before a load is put on it by driving.

Given that we use 5w-30 or even 0w-30 and the idle is 1200 to 1500 rpm till the catalytic converter is warmed up, I don't see where the oil starvation would come from.

Your thoughts...

Hi Richard,

Your owners guide will direct you for any special instructions. The vehicle is designed to be started, Drive, reverse or 1st or reverse gear selected and start moving. There is no "warm up" on the EPA emission test cycle and idling for warm up impacts fuel economy so is not considered. Start up and go...This is what we do and how we test and develop. Warm up is for the driver/passenger, not the vehicle.

I once an old Mercedes diesel that advised on cold days to drain the coolant, warm it up on the stove and then pour it back into the car to start the engine... Early 1960s... Hello??? NFW...

best,
Phil

 

[Dr_Strangelove]

I have heard this before and it was not so much "oil starvation" as much as the oil is washed away by the extra fuel caused by the rich environment the SAI / emissions system creates when the car first starts - in order to get the cats hot as fast as possible.

Cars I am familiar with (mostly classic sports cars but I'm intimately familiar with the M96 in the Porsche 996 a I've rebuilt several...) have issues with this 15+ years down the line and the issues - at least with the Porsche 996 - stem primarily from the bore cylinder coating used from the factory. It is called Alusil. The solution is to replace with Nikasil bore linings and then scoring is no longer a concern.

I think the big question is how bad is idling for our engine specifically? That I cannot answer. It is DFI so could well have different rules as it is a different fueling environment than a traditional fuel injection vehicle. My WAG is warming your car up is not going to cause issues for well over a decade if there are any to cause at all...

 

[MountainGoat]

Hmm seems odd that warming up the engine would cause damage but taking short trips where the engine doesn't get to warm up also causes damage.

 

[Trigganometry]

As Phil said they test at cold turn and go. For me the transmission shifts hard in low gears and feels sluggish. If I warm up 5 minutes when it’s cold it seems way better.

For me machinery with different metals and mass in it has a certain amount of time before equilibrium for all materials to stabilize. Just how it works.

 

[PltFX4]

As I was trying to find the exact article I was viewing, which sited Motor Trend, and a couple other notable sources (that the warm-up was a thing of the past; this was based on oil flow and that carburetors needed to warm-up to run right) I found some others articles where by state law (in NH), you are not allowed to have a car sit and idle more than 5 minutes in 60 minute (there are a couple exemptions).

So this is a bigger can of worms than I thought.

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Hmm seems odd that warming up the engine would cause damage but taking short trips where the engine doesn't get to warm up also causes damage.

Hi MG,

The deal is get the motor under load and working...not loafing at idle with no loading.

If you live where it is crazy cold and you remote start it....so be it. It is for you, not the motor and as far as I can go inside the company now, thanks to Jim D of Engine Engineering. There is no testing to assess wear and tear after warm up vs Cold start and go...

So Deal with it Don... (quote from Don's wife on our bike and barge trip down the Danube many years ago...anal guy worried about missing the boat).

RVs like my 40 ft motorhome with a CAT diesel. CAT says...start, drive and load up the motor for 50 miles....if you don't the motor can be damaged....so do not start otherwise.

Best,
Phil

 

[Bravohook]

Hope @P. A. Schilke chimes in: Was reading that starting the vehicle and letting warm up VS start driving directly is bad, in the long term, for the engine. Several reliable references confirmed this. saying that parts of the engine/trans could be starved of oil, thus accelerating wear.

As it has been -10 around here lately, I use remote start so it's warmer inside when I get in... not per sa to warm the engine to get the oil flowing before a load is put on it by driving.

Given that we use 5w-30 or even 0w-30 and the idle is 1200 to 1500 rpm till the catalytic converter is warmed up, I don't see where the oil starvation would come from.

Your thoughts...

My Ranger has the block heater. I always plugged my diesel in when it got below 10. My Ranger I plug in when it gets close to zero. Still remote start it for a few while I grab my coffee and head off to work and by the time I unplug get in and go the water temp is at about 1/4 of the way.

 

[PltFX4]

Hi Richard,

Your owners guide will direct you for any special instructions. The vehicle is designed to be started, Drive, reverse or 1st or reverse gear selected and start moving. There is no "warm up" on the EPA emission test cycle and idling for warm up impacts fuel economy so is not considered. Start up and go...This is what we do and how we test and develop. Warm up is for the driver/passenger, not the vehicle.

I once an old Mercedes diesel that advised on cold days to drain the coolant, warm it up on the stove and then pour it back into the car to start the engine... Early 1960s... Hello??? NFW...

best,
Phil

I understand the manual statements, which are based more on emissions issue, which is fine. But the real question is: from a wear and tear on the engine (bearings, rings, cam lobes, lifters etc.) is it the best mechanical advise?? An if yes, it is worse on wear, then how much are we talking?? for sake of argument, say life expectancy of an engine is 200K with warm-up. Is it 175K without?? or 125k?? or far less... only 1%??

 

[MountainGoat]

Hi MG,

The deal is get the motor under load and working...not loafing at idle with no loading.

If you live where it is crazy cold and you remote start it....so be it. It is for you, not the motor and as far as I can go inside the company now, thanks to Jim D of Engine Engineering. There is no testing to assess wear and tear after warm up vs Cold start and go...

So Deal with it Don... (quote from Don's wife on our bike and barge trip down the Danube many years ago...anal guy worried about missing the boat).

RVs like my 40 ft motorhome with a CAT diesel. CAT says...start, drive and load up the motor for 50 miles....if you don't the motor can be damaged....so do not start otherwise.

Best,
Phil

Maybe I am treating objects like people. Most need to warm up and have some coffee first. And missing the boat can be a big deal!

View attachment 164354

As I was trying to find the exact article I was viewing, which sited Motor Trend, and a couple other notable sources (that the warm-up was a thing of the past; this was based on oil flow and that carburetors needed to warm-up to run right) I found some others articles where by state law (in NH), you are not allowed to have a car sit and idle more than 5 minutes in 60 minute (there are a couple exemptions).

So this is a bigger can of worms than I thought.

Ah! The story behind the story.

 

[PltFX4]

My Ranger has the block heater. I always plugged my diesel in when it got below 10. My Ranger I plug in when it gets close to zero. Still remote start it for a few while I grab my coffee and head off to work and by the time I unplug get in and go the water temp is at about 1/4 of the way.

LOL... Yes I opted for the block heater in every car I've had in the last 30 years... it's a Minnesota thing.
With the 2019 Ranger, I also got a battery warmer. They do help.

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