Installed catch can and intake, now AC blowing warm

[Sariandan]

As stated.... I got my Mishimoto intake and oil catch can installed. Now, the AC is barely cool. Any ideas on what I may have screwed up somewhere? It worked fine yesterday when I pulled it into the garage to start work.

There are no MIL at the present time.

Edited to add: I also installed a tonneau cover and the DeeZee tailgate damper. I’ll bet it’s the tailgate damper causing the issue. It installed way to easily.

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[Porpoise Hork]

Does the air temp change when switching the system to Max cool?

 

[Sariandan]

Does the air temp change when switching the system to Max cool?

It does not.

There were only three electrical connectors that are messed with during these installs. The two by the intake and then one below a coolant hose in the wheel well. The two above are connected. I wonder what the one below does and if I forgot to reconnect it. It would be something I would do. Off to Harbor Freight to get a real jack, so I don't have to use the stock jack again. Such a pain in the ass.

 

[Porpoise Hork]

Not knowing what the specific harness connection that gets unplugged during the install is I'm not 100% sure, but based on the reported issue I'd lean to it being the AC compressor solenoid power connector.

 

[Sariandan]

Not knowing what the specific harness connection that gets unplugged during the install is I'm not 100% sure, but based on the reported issue I'd lean to it being the AC compressor solenoid power connector.

I'll bet that's what it is. A quick search for that term brings up a connector that looks just like it. Just got home from getting a floor jack. About to go look. I appreciate the input. Thank you.

 

[Sariandan]

Nope… it was connected. Fuses and relays all look good.

 

[Langwilliams]

I've never installed one but I don't recall hearing of anything like this. Are any wiring plugs disconnected for the install to check? Any plugs on the a/c lines you might have bumped during the install? I might try pulling the ground cable for 15-30 minutes an seeing if it clears the system. I'm assuming you have the auto climate control.

 

[RedDakooter05]

Well, ford is good for their quick connect fetish, I would just spend a good deal of time feeling hoses and harnesses and wires, ensuring everything is connected at both ends.

And don't just look at connectors, you may have managed to pull a wire/terminal out of a connector housing just enough. My job involves building wire and cable harnesses for various manufacturers and there's been plenty of occasions terminals get pulled out of their seating but remain in the connector giving the appearance it's in there when its not.


If I had access to a ranger I could have an easier time trouble shooting with you, but at all I have are images of cramped looking engine bays.

 

[Langwilliams]

Just looked at where you live.....I wouldn't want to be without a/c for a minute there

 

[Sariandan]

Thanks y’all!

So, comparing to my wife’s Ranger, I actually saw the issue, or at least a symptom of the issue.

The front of my compressor isn’t spinning when I turn the AC on. Not sure if that’s the compressor itself, just the clutch, or no power going to the compressor/clutch.

I swapped the relay with the horn relay, same issue, and horn still works. All fuses look good and show current with a multimeter. So, it’s possible that it’s coincidental (right?) and my compressor or clutch is bad. But, it could also be like Jake said, and I’ve unseated a wire in all my blind fumbling looking for the yellow connector that isn’t there. The problem is that I can’t see up in there really well.

I may just have to bite the bullet and let Ford have it. If it’s the actual compressor or the like, warranty repair. If I jacked up a connection somewhere, I guess I’ll have to work a bit of OT.

Swapping the compressor myself isn’t something I want to do.

I’ll look for a wiring schematic when I get home from dinner.

 

[ScrappyLaptop]

Thanks y’all!

So, comparing to my wife’s Ranger, I actually saw the issue, or at least a symptom of the issue.

The front of my compressor isn’t spinning when I turn the AC on. Not sure if that’s the compressor itself, just the clutch, or no power going to the compressor/clutch.

I swapped the relay with the horn relay, same issue, and horn still works. All fuses look good and show current with a multimeter. So, it’s possible that it’s coincidental (right?) and my compressor or clutch is bad. But, it could also be like Jake said, and I’ve unseated a wire in all my blind fumbling looking for the yellow connector that isn’t there. The problem is that I can’t see up in there really well.

I may just have to bite the bullet and let Ford have it. If it’s the actual compressor or the like, warranty repair. If I jacked up a connection somewhere, I guess I’ll have to work a bit of OT.

Swapping the compressor myself isn’t something I want to do.

I’ll look for a wiring schematic when I get home from dinner.

Haven't done it for years, but the old in-place test for the compressor clutch was to feed 12v to it. Engine doesn't even need to be running. As late as 2004 I know it was possible to use jumper cables with two screwdrivers as probes for the quick-disconnect. Don't keep the a/c clutch engaged btw, just long enough to see if it energizes.

 

[Sariandan]

Haven't done it for years, but the old in-place test for the compressor clutch was to feed 12v to it. Engine doesn't even need to be running. As late as 2004 I know it was possible to use jumper cables with two screwdrivers as probes for the quick-disconnect. Don't keep the a/c clutch engaged btw, just long enough to see if it energizes.

Hmm… I’ll look and see what it would take to do that, but I’m not sure where that connection actually is. I’m assuming at the compressor.

 

[ScrappyLaptop]

Hmm… I’ll look and see what it would take to do that, but I’m not sure where that connection actually is. I’m assuming at the compressor.

Some 3G & 4G had a two-wire, foot long cord with quick disconnect that was really convenient. I *think* ours have a built-in, two-spade male connector on the top of the compressor that the female wiring harness connects directly to. Either way, that connection lets you test the electromagnetic clutch and check for voltage that should be going to the clutch when it's turned on.

 

[Sariandan]

Some 3G & 4G had a two-wire, foot long cord with quick disconnect that was really convenient. I *think* ours have a built-in, two-spade male connector on the top of the compressor that the female wiring harness connects directly to. Either way, that connection lets you test the electromagnetic clutch and check for voltage that should be going to the clutch when it's turned on.

Thanks for the info. I’ll definitely look when I get home.

 

[Sariandan]

I'll look at seeing if I can directly check the compressor clutch Sunday, after I get home from work. I'm on shift tomorrow and likely won't have time. Then, to the dealership on Monday.

I'm debating whether or not to reverse the catch can install. I don't think I can undo Mishimoto's new locking clip by feel. So, I have a feeling it will just stay on.

When I double checked just now, by feel and the little bit that I can see, all connectors in the area behind the driver's wheel look and feel good, no loose wires hanging, and I gave a bit of a push to all wires that I found into their connectors.

And, the last thing for tonight... just to be sure in case somebody is thinking it. I am not saying that anything happened because of a Mishimoto product being installed in my truck. I realize that it may sound that way, depending on how you read it. I'm just saying that I think I did something during the install that resulted in this problem. But, I'm hoping it's just coincidence and whatever it is gets taken care of under warranty. Guess we'll see. Gonna be a hot 45 minute ride to work tomorrow morning and back on Sunday morning.

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