Level Kit finally Installed

[Kodiacnb]

Finally got the 2" level kit installed and new tires on. I also swapped out my lug nuts for black, and painted my center hubs.

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[Hickesy]

Looks great, which level kit did you use and are the tires bigger or same?

 

[Kodiacnb]

Looks great, which level kit did you use and are the tires bigger or same?

Thanks... It's a 2" Ready Lift kit. The tires are 265/65/17 from 255"s . I was going to go to 265/ 70's but changed my mind... didn't want to have to worry about changing the spare etc. Only a 5% difference in the sidewall. It's great on the road.

 

[Jbrubakerjr]

Looks good. Gives me an idea what my shadow black will look like when I level it. Of course that is also after I get it. I have been trying to decide om the lift like this or the level with Bilstein 5100’s. I am only planning on keepin it until i trade it on my Lightning. They way things are going that could be 2024…

 

[JohnnyO]

I'm going to make a second attempt to install mine this weekend.
Is it easily possible to turn the strut a little so the spacer lines up?
I didn't get quite that far last week as we couldn't get the tie rod end off. I bought a pickle fork today.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Checker ça - c’est right beau!

 

[YaBoiNewton]

Finally got the 2" level kit installed and new tires on. I also swapped out my lug nuts for black, and painted my center hubs.

My wife made jokes about the truck being a whole 2" taller up front when I installed my leveling kit. She just doesn't get it. 2" is a big deal!

 

[YaBoiNewton]

I'm going to make a second attempt to install mine this weekend.
Is it easily possible to turn the strut a little so the spacer lines up?
I didn't get quite that far last week as we couldn't get the tie rod end off. I bought a pickle fork today.

Yeah there's no way people actually get the tie rods out with a hammer. Pitman arm puller made me feel dumb for trying without it.

Also do yourself a solid when you start again and remove the brakes, knock the axle free from the wheel hub with a mallet, and completely unbolt the sway bar from the frame. It's so much easier once you don't have to fight the sway bar.

 

[JohnnyO]

Yeah there's no way people actually get the tie rods out with a hammer. Pitman arm puller made me feel dumb for trying without it.

Also do yourself a solid when you start again and remove the brakes, knock the axle free from the wheel hub with a mallet, and completely unbolt the sway bar from the frame. It's so much easier once you don't have to fight the sway bar.

We had everything apart except for the tie rod. We did unbolt the sway bar from the frame and I think that leaving it attached to the knuckle was keeping the knuckle from pulling out the axle shaft. Did not take the brake caliper off. Have an alignment appointment next Wednesday but the more I think about it the more I'm afraid to try it myself again. My bud is not available to help me this weekend. May wait a few weeks to gather up some more money and pay the shop to do it, estimate $350 plus the alignment for $100 that I need anyway. I dunno. Level kit is 1.5" so I shouldn't need to pull stuff apart as much.

 

[Synfulz]

So I was thinking my truck seems pretty level. So I just went and measured it. So the front wheel well is 3" lower than the rear. I assume it is correct to measure in this location? Just did not seem that un-level.

 

[YaBoiNewton]

We had everything apart except for the tie rod. We did unbolt the sway bar from the frame and I think that leaving it attached to the knuckle was keeping the knuckle from pulling out the axle shaft. Did not take the brake caliper off. Have an alignment appointment next Wednesday but the more I think about it the more I'm afraid to try it myself again. My bud is not available to help me this weekend. May wait a few weeks to gather up some more money and pay the shop to do it, estimate $350 plus the alignment for $100 that I need anyway. I dunno. Level kit is 1.5" so I shouldn't need to pull stuff apart as much.

Sounds like you got pretty far to give up now! Take some time to regroup and try again once your buddy is available.

Follow along with this video and you're golden:

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Yeah there's no way people actually get the tie rods out with a hammer. Pitman arm puller made me feel dumb for trying without it.

Also do yourself a solid when you start again and remove the brakes, knock the axle free from the wheel hub with a mallet, and completely unbolt the sway bar from the frame. It's so much easier once you don't have to fight the sway bar.

With the aluminum knuckles, it should be a simple matter of loosening the nut and tap tap with a soft hammer or mallet. ? Cast iron knuckles, not so much.

You get full marks for suggesting @JohnnyO knock the axle in and remove the calliper and rotor. Their extra weight is just too much to wrestle with when re-connecting the upper ball joint. ??

 

[JohnnyO]

With the aluminum knuckles, it should be a simple matter of loosening the nut and tap tap with a soft hammer or mallet. ? Cast iron knuckles, not so much.

Yeah, mine are cast iron. We got the ball joint off with a few whacks but the tie rod end wasn't coming off.

 

[jflogerzi]

Sounds like you got pretty far to give up now! Take some time to regroup and try again once your buddy is available.

Follow along with this video and you're golden:

Thanks for sharing. I have a 2WD truck. Will this video work or are there any steps I can omit.

 

[JohnnyO]

Thanks for sharing. I have a 2WD truck. Will this video work or are there any steps I can omit.

2wd is the same setup plus you don't have to worry about accidentally pulling out the axle shaft.
I got mine from Truxxx. They have 1.5", 2.5", and 3.5". I used theirs on the Sport Trac I had before, it's a quality product.

www.truxxx.com

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