James, I posted a thread on these and the link is in there where you can buy them.
Thank you very much for all this. Super nice. When did this get taken out of the Rangers ?Since Ford discontinued this option in later models and the topic comes up frequently, I figured I would take a look at what it would take to add lighting and if it was a relatively easy task.
I would wait to do this mod until a better LED strip solution is available. I'm going to order some varying LED strips from Oznium that I think will be a much better fit. The strip I had handy that just happens to fit perfectly, also happens to have poorly spaced LED's where a few ultra thin options from Oznium shouldn't produce hot spots as you will see below.
You will need the following tools.
Small flathead screwdriver.
Panel removal tool (angled is best).
7mm socket.
Start by lowering the glove box by compressing in the sides.
Remove the lower panel between the glove box and instrument panel. Start near the instrument panel in the top corner and work your way down the inside edge. Then the same from the outside edge and pull forward. These tabs are soft so take your time to avoid breaking and bending them. If the white retainer clips come off replace them back on the panel as needed.
Lower the drivers side panel under the steering wheel. This is hinged at the bottom. If the white retainer clips come off replace them back on the panel as needed.
Remove the lower panel between the the panel you just lowered and the instrument panel. Follow the same method as the other side.
Remove the two (7mm) screws holding the 12vdc lower panel to the dash. Using your panel removal tool start from the top edge and release each side. There is a center retaining clip that will release as you gently pull outwards. Remove the wiring from the two sockets and set the panel aside.
Using the panel removal tool gently pry up on the cover for the front center console. Start between the cup holder and panel. Work your way towards the front of the vehicle on each side. You do not need to remove this entirely. From the back gently push out the USB port assembly. You can tap into the ambient lighting for the USB port.
The cover for the gear selector (black) is held to the housing by (6) clips. Starting on the drivers side under the "P" gently separate the two by gently pressing in the white tab while lifting on the black cover. I used a small flathead. You have to be gentle here since these white tabs can snap off easily. Work your way around counter clockwise to release all (6) tabs. You will not have to do the last two in front. You will just be able to lift up and wiggle the top off.
There is a recessed rectangular channel under the lettering where an LED strip can be placed. I'm assuming due to the layout this was originally a light pipe and the lower center cutout was for a wiring connector. You can use this center cutout to run your wiring. I did look throughout the parts at Ford and could not find a part in any schematic. If this could be located and available, obviously the OEM light would be best.
For testing I used a 101.6 x 14.70 x 7.95 LED strip. Standard 4" LED strip from Amazon. The spacing of the LED's is a poor solution that results in hot spots. Smaller LED's with tighter spacing would be much better. I'll order some next week and test them.
Run your wiring through the center slot and forward towards the USB ports. This was the hardest part. Getting the wiring from here to cutout for the USB ports.
I cannot stress how much I really hate these "T" connectors. I will eventually put down some protection and solder in a pigtail here, but I showed these connectors since this is what most folks would go ahead and use anyways. You may want to test but for my connection the Y/W wire was the positive (wire furthest from the retaining clip).
You can notice the hotspots. These strips are clearly not the best solution. Strips like these would be a much better solution due to the tighter spacing of LED's.
I didn't get a good photo. But when you run your wiring, run them along the drivers side. You can zip tie you're wiring to the existing wiring to keep away from any moving parts or from rattling.
If you ever want to run cup holder lighting or the console lighting it would be a good idea to leave an accessible pigtail under here where you don't have to remove all the paneling again.
Regards,
Honestly, why does anyone need these lights? I never look at the dash or the console, when I put it in gear, because if you "feel" where the clicks, you should know what position it's in?
NOW....
Man, that T shifter really brings back memories. My first car was a '71 Mustang with that shifter. Dangerously hot during Texas summers, but I love that car!This thread brings back the memories. My first car was a '66 Fairlane 2 Door Sedan (post), C-code 289 with a C4 Column shift. Remember plenty of GTA Fairlanes, Galaxies and Mercurys with the full consoles. P-R-N-D-2-1 were individually lit (console) as I recall.
Can't wait to have my own view like thisThis is my clusters visibility
Diggin the diecastin the tray 
Remember the old FORD Thunderbirds had a similar set up. Ahhhh...I can smell that old car musty smell from hereThis thread brings back the memories. My first car was a '66 Fairlane 2 Door Sedan (post), C-code 289 with a C4 Column shift. Remember plenty of GTA Fairlanes, Galaxies and Mercurys with the full consoles. P-R-N-D-2-1 were individually lit (console) as I recall.
Don't overpay for the diecast Ranger like I did. I jumped at the first offer on Facebook.....Can't wait to have my own view like this
Side topic....those that ride motorcylces. Older bikes never had a shift light or shift indicator....but the newer ones seem to have/need themHonestly, why does anyone need these lights? I never look at the dash or the console, when I put it in gear, because if you "feel" where the clicks, you should know what position it's in?
NOW....
I'm sorry, when did it take so much effort to remember 4,5, or 6 gears ??? 
This thread just reminds me of things like this.
Don't need the toy when I have the real thing coming. I have enough "toys" that my wife complains about. And just like I was when I was a kid...I DON"T SHARE MY TOYSDon't overpay for the diecast Ranger like I did. I jumped at the first offer on Facebook.....
Recalling the 1973 Suzuki GT750....liquid cooled 2 stroke triple with a digital gear indicator....Side topic....those that ride motorcylces. Older bikes never had a shift light or shift indicator....but the newer ones seem to have/need them
Damn... that was high tech for that timeRecalling the 1973 Suzuki GT750....liquid cooled 2 stroke triple with a digital gear indicator....
Alot of 'tech' out of Japan during this time frame. Kawasaki was the first with CDI (capacitor discharge ignition) in 1969. Suzuki with their liquid cooled GT750 in 1972, Suzuki RE5 Rotary in 1974, Kawasaki with the EFI option on the 1981 Ninjas and so forth. RE5 Rotary depicted.Damn... that was high tech for that time
