I bought their whole body kit, it was almost $2200 shipped
That looks great!Tire swing and also added the decked system now waiting on rotopax and mantras mount
Looks great!Little more side project work getting the marker lighting up.
Also haters gonna hate, but the bug out battle wagon has been officially logo'd.
Those look very nice, much better coverage/fitment than the OEM rubber mats IMO.WeatherTech HP floor mats. Negotiated and got them free form Ford. ? Free “HA HA”
I just love white Rangers! Great-looking truck!Stone deflector & ceramic coating
I need these!!!!!WeatherTech HP floor mats. Negotiated and got them free form Ford. ? Free “HA HA”
Fabulous! Looks great!Today, I haven't done anything to it, but I've owned it for about 3 months and it's gone from this:
To this:
There was a time, when I was installing something new every couple of days, LOL! It's almost finished finally!
What brand rock lights and how many?Installed some rock lights. Controlled by switch in truck and bluetooth connection on phone to switch different colors
I have the Roush version of them. I believe they're the same thing?
Sorry, I cannot pay for everyones' obsessions, just mine....
Thank you I returned a leased F150 and had just put a set in it. I cried about it enough that my salesman offered to get me a set for the new Ranger. I like the a lot they are softer than their original but get dusty easier.
Awesome thanks this helps a ton. I think I'll be pulling trigger on doing same thingI mounted with Velcro to the rail on the X4S cover. I bought a roll of 15' x 3/4" velcro cut to about 4' strips. One side is attached to the rail the other side is left bare. The COB's do have a sticky back. I just attached glue side of the velcro to the glue side of the COB's. Be careful, once it's stuck on there it's not coming off easily. I wanted to be able to remove the strip if it failed without having to peal off the COB strip. Just attaching a new velcro side would be much simpler.
There is a "Y" connector on the drivers side that connects to the passenger side and then out to the cargo light. I attached along the bottom of the cover with cable holders and used part of a roll of 18awg shielded cabling (DC Power Adapter Extension Cabling).
At the front of the bed on each side is a pop out cover. You can use either side. I drilled a 3/8 hole for a 1/4 grommet. This is not necessary since the cabling shouldn't rub through on the plastic insert. Just to the left there is another grommet (one on each side of the vehicle) that leads to the cab. I left a bit of slack here so any flex between the body and bed doesn't pull on the cable.
In the corner, from within the cab, peal back the carpet and pull out the grommet.
From the top of the "C Pillar" I dropped a line to fish the cabling up. I attached a line to a small nut and used a magnet to feed all the way to the bottom. Attach your cable to the line and pull up. Much easier than removing all the paneling to get the line up.
There is a piece of tape that covers the hole to the cargo light. Once you have the cargo light off you'll see it. From the outside push a corner of the tape out and feed your line through to make your wiring attachments. Ground is black, white is power to the cargo lights, and orange is the brake light. To keep the wire from moving around up in the headliner I used Tessa tape to stick to the back side of the headliner. About every 6" wrapped the tape around the cable then twisted the tape to expose the sticky side. Then reach through to stick to the headliner. Not the best solution to secure the wire, but I wasn't going to remove the entire headliner. Wire hasn't moved yet though. I also zip tied the cable to the cargo light cable and pulled that cable tight. So I don't think its going anywhere.
MICTUNING C2 Curved RGBW LED Rock Lights - 8 Pods Underglow Multicolor Neon Light with Wiring Switch Kit, Bluetooth Controller, Music Mode https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C7ZWJ4...abc_NAGK01197KMG5HN3FGDE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
