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It’s done. One piece driveshaft!
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P. A. Schilke
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Hi Steve,Know a lot of you been waiting for this, so here it is. Attached are pictures and details of work done.
Only drove it 35 miles. So far all highway vibrations gone, no more shutter at take off. Smooth all the way around! Drove it up to 90mph.
I’ll keep you posted once I start the work week on Monday and start driving back and forth to work every day.
Okay...Here is the calculation you need to do on your new longer driveshaft. It is called critical speed and the parameters are easy to obtain except wall thickness which the Driveshaft shop should have.
https://spicerparts.com/calculators/critical-speed-rpm-calculator
Of what material is your new driveshaft made?
Best,
Phil
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VegasRanger
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Thickness is .083 and I think it’s steel.
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VegasRanger
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P. A. Schilke
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Hi Steve,
Magnet stick the the shaft? So now in direct drive...what is the speed associated with a driveshaft speed of 3285....This is the speed with the driveshaft starts becoming a Jump Rope.... Someone help me out here on rpm vs vehicle speed...
Best,
Phil
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VegasRanger
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2.5” up front.
Chris M
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So if one were to do this, wouldn't it need to be custom fitted to each individual truck, and wouldn't we be relegated to keeping things exactly where we had them at the time of fitment and installation?
Would tire wear affect things at all? (Change in tire height)
Would tire wear affect things at all? (Change in tire height)
Frenchy
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There is no rear way for tire height to affect it with the exception of torque load on the driveshaft. Lift from tires do not change suspension and driveline angles.
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VegasRanger
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This I would like to know actually
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VegasRanger
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Hey Phil, what I was thinking is, that calculator doesn’t take into account the material used for the shaft right? Is it assuming metal? I guess that would change the critical speed.
Trigganometry
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Might be worth looking into sealed bearing assembly’s so you don’t have to grease them every 3K.
As far as changing driveline, changing shocks and or leafs will do that. I’m curious as to the amount of offset and the limits that will cause bind that creates the heat issues.
As far as changing driveline, changing shocks and or leafs will do that. I’m curious as to the amount of offset and the limits that will cause bind that creates the heat issues.
P. A. Schilke
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HI Steve,
Correct...this calculation is for steel shafts as aluminum and composite are much higher speed for the same diameter and the associated wall thickness for the material... We had composite driveshafts on the E350/450 which were about 5" in diameter as for a 15 passenger bus they were quite long. Long driveshafts can be a problem if the shop doing the fab work does not calculate the critical speed but just throws parts together.
When I was racing my first racecar...a B Sedan Pinto, a friend had a Pinto as well and bragged about his driveshaft being lighter for "racing". The driveshaft failed and tore up the bottom of his car as he pole vaulted off the track when it broke. He should have had a driveshaft loop as dictated by the rules but did not have one. Why?...he exceeded the critical speed of the shaft.
I do not what to be a rain cloud on your project, but just make you aware that there are design parameters to consider. What bothers me is why did Ford choose a two piece design? Single piece would be cheaper.... Something dictated a more expensive two piece design.... I wish I knew why the decision was made, but I do not have any contacts inside the company in driveshaft design like I used to have. They either retired or died, which is where I am heading too...hopefully not in the near future but you never know....
best.
Phil
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VegasRanger
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Thanks Phil, I certainly appreciate your input and you have valid points for sure. I spoke to Tom Woods who has been making one piece driveshafts for Tacoma’s for a while now and have sold many. They told me they are 65” long, 3.5” and same wall thickness. Almost identical to mine, so this gives me hopes as he hasn’t had one come back with a complaint yet.
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