Turn signal bulb out again

[SBCSD]

About 3 months ago my front right turn signal bulb went out. I replaced the bulb with a Sylvania LongLife Mini Bulb 7444NA. Earlier this week the same bulb went out again. Replaced the bulb but the turn signal does not blink. I tried the other bulb in the pack with no luck. Then I took the bulb from my front left turn signal and placed it in the right turn signal and still no front right turn signal. I placed the bulb that I thought was burned out in my left front turn signal to see if it was really burned out, works fine in the left turn signal. Rear right turn signal works with no issues. Running lights work fine. Is there a fuse for each turn signal bulb that might be blown? Any other ideas what might be wrong? The plug looks good with no corrosion or defects that I can see. Any ideas on what to check for would be appreciated. My truck is completely stock as the way it came from the factory, if that helps any.

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[Synfulz]

Maybe a contact on the flasher relay?

 

[SBCSD]

do you have a multimeter?
I would check the wires for power and ground to determine your next step

Ranger Pride: This is a picture of the left running lights/turn signal, my guess would be the brown wire would be ground? I do have a multimeter, just want to be sure what wire is what before sticking the multimeter on it.

 

[SBCSD]

Maybe a contact on the flasher relay?

I found this from a different post on the forum from JasonTremor: " I think that is controlled by the bcm these days, but not sure on the ranger specifically. " Looks like there is no flasher relay.

 

[Synfulz]

I found this from a different post on the forum from JasonTremor: " I think that is controlled by the bcm these days, but not sure on the ranger specifically. " Looks like there is no flasher relay.

OK, I was wondering that after I typed that. Thanks for the info.

 

[Trigganometry]

If it’s a filament bulb just check it using ohms (resistance) If LED there is polarity. Wire colors could be hit or miss. I would think green would be ground if going by standards

 

[Dereku]

Thats an odd one. Could be a loose connector for the bulb. Could also be corroded as well.

 

[SBCSD]

If it’s a filament bulb just check it using ohms (resistance) If LED there is polarity. Wire colors could be hit or miss. I would think green would be ground if going by standards

I checked the plug at the contacts and was able to hear the audible tone from the multimeter turn on and off while the right blinker was turned on. sounded just like the left turn signal when I checked that side also. So plug is getting power when the right turn signal is on, maybe not enough power for the bulb? I'm running normal filament bulbs so even with less than 12 volts I should get at least a dim light correct?

 

[SBCSD]

Thats an odd one. Could be a loose connector for the bulb. Could also be corroded as well.

Inside the connector was very clean and with the turn signal on I moved the plug around to see if I could get a flicker. No such luck. I did check the plug with a multimeter set to ohms and did get an audible tone sound turn on and off with the turn signal on. After I put everything back together a thought came to me that I should have checked to see how many ohms I was getting. Not sure if that matters or not.

 

[Trigganometry]

Inside the connector was very clean and with the turn signal on I moved the plug around to see if I could get a flicker. No such luck. I did check the plug with a multimeter set to ohms and did get an audible tone sound turn on and off with the turn signal on. After I put everything back together a thought came to me that I should have checked to see how many ohms I was getting. Not sure if that matters or not.

If you’re checking the plug you want to be looking at voltage in DC.

Ohms would only tell you if you had a short. By this I mean, one lead to car ground anywhere and the other lead both connection points in receptacle using Ohms.

Or ohms across both bulb contacts will tell you if filament is good or not. This may or may not work for an LED bulb depending on how it’s built.

Voltage check on receptacle will tell you if enough juice is making it to the bulb or is you have an issue with that. My past Ranger needed new receptacles because of broken contacts but looking at them you would never know that was the issue until doing the checks above.

 

[SigOris]

Set your DVM to measure DC volts, turn vehicle on, turn on working bulb that blinks, go to working side bulb, connect BLK lead to GND, using RED, measure both pins, one should indicate ~ 12VDC, the other 0 VDC. Record results as to what wire has DC voltage. Repeat on other side.

 

[deleriumtremor]

Electrical problems can be a bear.

I always start with old Bill Ockham's approach to debug. Fully eliminate the bulb (done), then the plug as the possible source of your issue, before moving on.

 

[pbethel]

Rodents.

 

[D Fresh]

Rodents.

My guess as well.

 

[SBCSD]

If you’re checking the plug you want to be looking at voltage in DC.

Ohms would only tell you if you had a short. By this I mean, one lead to car ground anywhere and the other lead both connection points in receptacle using Ohms.

Or ohms across both bulb contacts will tell you if filament is good or not. This may or may not work for an LED bulb depending on how it’s built.

Voltage check on receptacle will tell you if enough juice is making it to the bulb or is you have an issue with that. My past Ranger needed new receptacles because of broken contacts but looking at them you would never know that was the issue until doing the checks above.

I will check it out again Friday morning when I get home from work. I did check ohms across the bulb contacts on all the bulbs and all checked ok.

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