Temp Gage Functioning? And Overheating?

[Frenchy]

As a suggestion I would recommend getting a scan gauge or something to monitor the coolant temp and cylinder head temp. Is this considered normal? I have to say no Wich makes me wonder what is going on.

Now you ask why I say to watch both coolant and cylinder head temp right? Well thanks to how Ford did things the Cylinder Head Temp sensor will take over the coolant temp gauge if needed. Also if Cylinder Head Temp is much higher than Coolant Temp by more than a few degrees it indicates signs of a coolant leak somewhere.

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[emesel]

Your description of temp gauge jumping indicates air in the cooling system.
So, not properly bled after T-Stat change.
The jumping gauge - is the air pockets.

Now if it was a normal slow climb to overheat this would be ruled out.

Was the T-Stat replaced for the exact problem you are having?

The only thing I can think of that ties into this is the Cooling Fan, as the speed is controlled by inputs from the ECT, Trans Temp - so under a load it should spin faster to overcome the extra heat being created.

After they put the reservoir in and we started driving, the heater was set to 85 degrees, so I assumed this was done to eliminate air.
T-stat was replaced for this problem. I assume they bled system.
The dealer that replaced the T-stat and cylinder head temp sensor said the fan was functioning.
Not sure what to do from here.
Thanks, Mark

 

[myothercarizahearse]

because no gases in the coolant that rules out head gasket failure. it's probably air in the coolant. I'd drain, vacuum, fill

 

[emesel]

Also, not a lot of bugs in radiator. I have good heat coming from heater, does this mean I don't have an air pocket? Regardless, to be sure i don't, how would I bleed coolant system of possible air?

 

[myothercarizahearse]

first do a pressure test. if it can't hold pressure because of an air leak the coolant might boil and that cavitation might also cause the fluctuations in temperature.

easy way:





better way is to drain, vacuum and fill under vacuum(using a vacuum pump not a shop vac). if you can't get a proper vacuum it would show you have a leak somewhere

 

[emesel]

first do a pressure test. if it can't hold pressure because of an air leak the coolant might boil and that cavitation might also cause the fluctuations in temperature.

easy way:





better way is to drain, vacuum and fill under vacuum(using a vacuum pump not a shop vac). if you can't get a proper vacuum it would show you have a leak somewhere

Not sure I'd be able to do that while I'm still on the road. I saw a YouTube video of somebody revving engine to 3500 rpm for 30 seconds, then waiting 10 minutes, then again if still no heat from heater. I am getting heat, does this mean I don't have an air pocket?
Yesterday, from Banff to Glacier NP, there were some steep hills. I took it easy and kept it below 3000 rpm and it did not overheat.
Does a place like Autozone sell a scanner I could use to monitor temp's?

 

[myothercarizahearse]

I am getting heat, does this mean I don't have an air pocket?

yes. no. I don't know. maybe? personally if it ain't overheating when taking it easy, I'd call it a pass. I tend to push limits but not when hauling stuff like cargo or a heavy trailer. take it easy for safety sake.

What is the level of coolant in the reservoir?

 

[emesel]

What is the level of coolant in the reservoir?

coolant is right where it

What is the level of coolant in the reservoir?

Whenever I check it when engine is at operating temp, coolant is right between min and max. Just checked after sitting all night, and it's about 1/8" below min, but I think that's where it was after they replaced t-stat and sensor. I'll continue to keep a close eye on this. And I'll continue to take it easy on long, steep grades.
And what about getting a scanner? Anything specific I should look for?
Many thanks for your help! Mark

 

[ControlNode]

I have 2019 Ranger w factory tow pkg. I tow 4500 pound trailer. Never had problem until Rocky Mountains; had "engine overheated" message pop up 3 - 4 times. I tow with towing feature activated. Only overheated going uphill with trailer, rpm approx 3500. When engine cold, temp indicator is at bottom, then incrementally goes up to normal (middle). When it overheated, indicator jumped to top, then a minute later when it cooled a bit it jumped back to normal.
Dealer replaced thermostat and cylinder head temp sensor.
Questions:
1) Is it normal for temp indicator to jump from normal to max and then jump back when cooled?
2) Do I have a cooling problem, or is 4500 pound trailer in Rocky Mountsins too much? (I'm 2500 pounds under GCWR, 3000 under max tow rating.)
Thanks. Mark

Sounds like you may be overweight (GCWR). Remember, every 1,000ft over sea level you lose 3% of the full GCWR. So my Ranger going to Salt Lake, UT from the east coast would pass over 8,500ft and there I would have a GCWR of 9500, a full 3,000lb less than the sea level GCWR.

Other related details I've not seen provided now that I've read more and see that there were leaks at some point. What grade hills are you climbing and at what speed/gear? You may just need to go slower up those steep grades and in a lower gear (keeping RPMs up to about 3,500-4,000) for better engine to ground torque advantage. Also, the area just east of Butte looks to a just over 6,000ft with a grade more than 6% in places, so (assuming you have 4x4 Crew cab) the GCWR there would be about 10,250lb.

 

[myothercarizahearse]

And what about getting a scanner? Anything specific I should look for?

sorry can't help with that. Somebody around here has installed OBDII screens that show all kinds of info but who they and what they used? I can't remember

 

[ControlNode]

sorry can't help with that. Somebody around here has installed OBDII screens that show all kinds of info but who they and what they used? I can't remember

I've used TorquePro for most of my non-Ford specific data and screens, though if you know the PIDs you can add Ford specific data too. I can use my FP Tuner for some data now. And if I need to go deep into the weeds I have ForScan.

 

[emesel]

Sounds like you may be overweight (GCWR). Remember, every 1,000ft over sea level you loss 3% of the full GCWR. So my Ranger going to Salt Lake, UT from the east coast would pass over 8,500ft and there I would have a GCWR of 9500, a full 3,000lb less than the sea level GCWR.

Other related details I've not seen provided now that I've read more and see that there were leaks at some point. What grade hills are you climbing and at what speed/gear? You may just need to go slower up those steep grades and in a lower gear (keeping RPMs up to about 3,500-4,000) for better engine to ground torque advantage. Also, the area just east of Butte looks to a just over 6,000ft with a grade more than 6% in places, so (assuming you have 4x4 Crew cab) the GCWR there would be about 10,250lb.

Thanks for the info. I wasn't sure if revving higher would be better or not; I'll keep that in mind next time I'm at a steep grade.
My gross weight (from CAT Scale) was 9800 lb, so I was close.
I guess I need to modify my driving a bit; take it a little more easy, and maybe go into lower gear (I thought the towing mode would do that automatically).
Thanks to all that have helped with this.
Mark

 

[ControlNode]

Yeah, sometimes when you are near the limit, you just have to give up the speed for the better mechanical advantage of the lower gears while climbing.

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