Rear window remote RF wireless open/close automation on the 2019/20 Ford Ranger

[DIYAndy]

I'm of the same mindset. I'm not doing a cheap mod if it frankly.....looks cheap.

Hillbilly engineering - cheap, functional and gets the job done!

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[DIYAndy]

A bit of humor ...
Looking in "on the outside" of the rear window with the metal bar across the opening, it looks
like the occupants are incarcerated in a Ford Ranger prison. Now if I could electrify the metal
linear actuator rod it would create a 100% foolproof Ranger prison.
The grinding sound the linear actuator gear motor makes is like a jail house door closing.
Please note: Never been near a jail house - the only ones I have seen were on TV.

On the serious side - the vast amount of forum views on this rear window automation should/might/could propel FMC (Ford Motor Company) to bring back their "novel" rear window automation.

 

[DIYAndy]

Reviewing some of the forum members comments about this project - these are my thoughts:
Plexiglass can be used instead of wood for the base plate for the actuator. This will allow better
vision out the rear window. The only downside is the cost of 3/8" plexiglass and the need for
special tools/glues, skills working with acrylic plastics.

Here are some additional tips/suggestions for this project:

1. A 1/2" wooden dowel pin was jammed on the plastic latching center latch to defeat the latch/lock. Also having the base frame left side flush will also defeat the latch from interfering with the motorized linear actuator.
2. T-Rex double sided heavy duty tape was layered and used to attach the center latch U bracket, for the actuator stroke arm, to the rear window sliding glass.
3. Three #8 T-nuts were countersunk and also Gorilla glued to the wood top plate (on the backside)
4. 3/8" or 11/32" plywood thickness is needed to the proper "jam fit" in the vinyl trim near the ceiling.
5. 3/4" wood stock elevates the mini linear actuator on the top base plate. (fastener - screws and/or glue)
6. A wooden U bracket was made for the actuator mounting end on the "right side" and was Gorilla glued to the top base plate.
7. A wooden U bracket with notch was made to go around the center window latch and secured by double sided tape to the window.
8. Again, actuator alignment is critical for proper operation. Having the attached components with a loose fit prevents twisting and binding. For instance, the mini linear actuator has 1/4" holes but I used a much smaller #10 bolts for a loose fit.

Please note: The easy part of this project was the integration of the "off the shelf" RF remote control and mini linear actuator. The hard part was mounting a base plate to the back of the rear window for the actuator parts.

Hope this helps the DIYers.

 

[DIYAndy]

Further research (from the same company) yielded this special mini "track" actuator.
This would relieve/eliminate two major concerns with the present mini linear actuator in this project that:
1. Blocks the window opening with the stroke actuator push rod.
2. Blocks the window opening "field of view" due to the mounting actuator base board.
Also, adds a smaller form factor (15" for a 10" stroke) for a better visual appeal and the remote RF control wiring would be the same.
The mounting (below the window?) and stroke attachment could be problematic but it could be done - DIYers have at it.
https://www.firgelliauto.com/

 

[wanted33]

And here I thought my "Redneck" engineering would go unchallenged forever. But, I bow to your abilities sir.

 

[DIYAndy]

this clearly tells me the level of your engineering capabilities. I know the risks of angular pressure on glass, yet I also see many ways to overcome this without plunking a massive rod in your field of vision. you solved one issue and caused several more.

You, of all people, being a fellow Canadian, criticizing my Canadian Newfie engineering skills
that I obtained from St. John's Engineering Academy in Newfoundland.
I believe this automation system is the only one in existence for the 2019/20 Ford Ranger.

You neglected to read my design features -
1. No modifications to the rear window will be allowed.
2. No drilling or machining on the Ranger will be allowed.
3. High temperature components will be used.
4. Easy addition and removal of the mini linear actuator system.
5. Easy to obtain, "off the shelf" automation system parts will be used.
6. Cellulose (wood) will be used for any special parts - no 3D printer needed.
7. The linear actuator will just stroke the center latch for open/close automation.

By using a track actuator (above) then all your critical issues would be gone BUT would violate number 1 ,2 & 4 of my project design features.

 

[DIYAndy]

And here I thought my "Redneck" engineering would go unchallenged forever. But, I bow to your abilities sir.

If I am not mistaken but there are no DIY projects by "wanted33" in this DIY section
Thanks for the compliment.

Here are mine ...
1. Winch with custom made table/stand
2. Truck bed crane used with 2" tow receiver
3. Screen mesh window - for optional rear window.
4. Truck bed protector
5. Emergency power inverter (110 VAC 1000 Watt output)
6. LED tailgate bar
7. Back-up alarm
8. DIY Truck bed covers (Tonneau - 3 different types)
9. Door ding protector with payback.
10. Cargo slider(s) for truck bed.
11. Steel rims with reflective wheel covers.
12. Rear window RF Remote Control Automation

 

[wanted33]

If I am not mistaken but there are no DIY projects by "wanted33" in this DIY section
Thanks for the compliment.

Here are mine ...
1. Winch with custom made table/stand
2. Truck bed crane used with 2" tow receiver
3. Screen mesh window - for optional rear window.
4. Truck bed protector
5. Emergency power inverter (110 VAC 1000 Watt output)
6. LED tailgate bar
7. Back-up alarm
8. DIY Truck bed covers (Tonneau - 3 different types)
9. Door ding protector with payback.
10. Cargo slider(s) for truck bed.
11. Steel rims with reflective wheel covers.
12. Rear window RF Remote Control Automation

After the "Ranger power rear window" do you really think I would try to out do that? I know my limitations my friend, and know when I've been bested. I mainly master in "Duct tape technology", and minor in "WD40 keeps the world moving" techniques.

 

[DIYAndy]

After the "Ranger power rear window" do you really think I would try to out do that? I know my limitations my friend, and know when I've been bested. I mainly master in "Duct tape technology", and minor in "WD40 keeps the world moving" techniques.

You forgot the last item in the hillbilly arsenal -

 

[DIYAndy]

come to the mountains and breathe in the air (less smokey this week) you'll be amazed at what the highly oxygenated mountain air will do to your thinking

No can do - too many flying garbage trucks aka ducks/geese that will destroy the paint job on my new Ford Ranger.???

 

[forestale]

....
This drive mechanism cannot "only" drive the sliding rear window at the top or bottom due to uneven forces that could twist and bind. It should be designed somehow to drive the window from the center or bad things will happen

I don't know that I agree about centre push being the only viable option. At the end of the day were talking about moving a 1sqft piece of glass (therefore rigid) approx 1ft to the side. Not a ton of travel happening. A driven linear bearing under the slider would be plenty stiff enough to prevent the window from racking in my estimation. I don't have an "impressive" resume of ranger DIY mods to cite as proof(?) of my engineering prowess but I do work in design and manufacturing glass man doors and we've used a linear bearing system to drive and steer open 36"x78" doors.

Your point about cost are well taken though. If you want to buy plug and play components with minimal fabrication it's gonna cost. ?

 

[wanted33]

You forgot the last item in the hillbilly arsenal -

Wow, can't believe I forgot one of the best things in a rednecks tool box. I have 3 from big to little.

 

[DIYAndy]

Wow, can't believe I forgot one of the best things in a rednecks tool box. I have 3 from big to little.

There you have it - duct tape, WD40 and vise-grips plus a case of ice cold beer. You can fix anything with that combo.

 

[t4thfavor]

Challenge #2 Andy...

Put it on the passenger side, mount it very low, right under the headrest, and use a bar actuator glued (with special glass glue) to the window so that when the actuator pulls open it automatically "undoes" the latch, and when it pushes closed it leave the latch open to click closed. This way, when the window is open, there is no bar in the way, and when it's closed it's closed and you don't care about the bar..

Second to that mount it behind the rear seat, and use some sort of boomerang looking mechanism to redirect the force of the actuator allowing the actuator to stay hidden behind the seat completely. this could be hooked to the window using a ball and socket sort of like the infamous tailgate damper.



Bonus points for inventing a replacement latch and gas strut option that can be used as an "auto open" from pushbutton which would get us the real functionality everyone really wants without all the "stuff" in the window

 

[Trigganometry]

After seeing this thread it got me thinking. I had to replace the power window assembly in my daughters Ford Focus a few years ago. I chucked the whole assembly over in the corner of my garage when finished. Figured if the new one messed up I could just grab parts off the one I threw in the corner.

Now with a little bit of modifications I could use the 2 cable setup to open and close this window and have it all tucked down behind the seat.

Here we go again ?

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