Rear brake pad replacement

[chaps]

I learned a lot from this thread … but I did not find a comprehensive guide … so I hope this is. Sorry no pics.

2019 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4

Rear brake pads Ford JB3Z-2200-D (about $75 shipped)
Caliper grease, service tool (see below)

4 pads plus 4 caliper bolts, the 4 retaining ”slides” that the pads slide on, and 2 clips for each pad end which I assume prevents squeaking. I did not remove/replace the rotors. It would be nice to turn/clean them, but auto parts stores don’t do this anymore.

Remove caliper from bracket/rotor, 2 caliper bolts. Lubricate caliper pins. Be sure boots in good shape.

You do not have to remove the emergency brake cable from the caliper. I supported the caliper on a spare jack stand while servicing.

I had to remove the caliper bracket to get the new pads seated. It would seem you could do this without the removal, but try as I might, I could not get the new pads+clips seated properly with the bracket on the hub. So, I took it off, cleaned the bracket well, replaced ”slides”, seated new pads with new clips, slid assembly over rotor, bolted back on.

Now the goal is to “simply” retract, re-seat the caliper piston so that it again fits over the new (thicker) pads. This REQUIRES a special tool. Because of the internal complexity of rear calipers handling both brake pedal (hydraulic) input and/or emergency/hand brake cable, the rear caliper piston must be turned as it is squeezed. Furthermore, the drivers side caliper must be turned COUNTER CLOCKWISE as it is compressed, the passenger side CLOCKWISE. This tool I purchased on Amazon worked reasonably well
Astro 78618 Brake Caliper Wind Back Tool Set - 18 Piece https://a.co/d/2Z8GKl0
although the “squeezer” turning pin bent on the drivers side. Would be nice if it were sturdier.

Open hood and loosen brake fluid cap (release pressure). Leave hood open; don’t close with loose cap. Expose brake fluid to outside air as little as possible.

On drivers side, use LH squeezer, RH on passenger. #7 plate fit caliper piston pin holes perfectly. Get plate, backing plate, squeezer hand tight in caliper. Using 22mm end wrench, apply some pressure then turn squeezer. It’s a little tricky … not TOO much pressure (like I did on drivers side and bent tool handle) … just a little, turn, little more pressure, turn … the 2nd one was much easier that the first and no bent handle. BTW I started by spraying the piston with silicone. Not sure if this is recommended.

I had to remove the caliper bracket to get the new pads seated. It would seem you could do this without the removal, but try as I might, I could not get the new pads/pins seated properly with the bracket on the hub. So, I took it off, cleaned the bracket well, replaced races (little metal parts the pads slide in), seated new pads with new clips, slid assembly over rotor, bolted back on.

Now the goal is to “simply” retract, re-seat the caliper piston so that it again fits over the new (thicker) pads. This REQUIRES a special tool. Because of the internal complexity of rear calipers handling both brake pedal (hydraulic) input and/or emergency/hand brake cable, the rear caliper piston must be turned as it is squeezed. Furthermore, the drivers side caliper must be turned COUNTER CLOCKWISE as it is compressed, the passenger side CLOCKWISE. This tool I purchased on Amazon worked reasonably well
Astro 78618 Brake Caliper Wind Back Tool Set - 18 Piece https://a.co/d/2Z8GKl0
although the “squeezer” turning pin bent on the drivers side. Would be nice if it were sturdier.

Open hood and loosen brake fluid cap. Leave hood open; don’t close with loose cap. Expose brake fluid to outside air as little as possible.

On drivers side, use LH squeezer, RH on passenger. #7 plate fit caliper piston pin holes perfectly. Get plate, backing plate, squeezer hand tight in caliper. Using 22mm end wrench, apply some pressure then turn squeezer. It’s a little tricky … not TOO much pressure (like I did on drivers side and bent tool handle) … just a little, turn, little more pressure, turn … the 2nd one was much easier that the first and no bent handle. BTW I started by spraying the piston with silicone. Not sure if this is recommended.

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[airline tech]

I learned a lot from this thread … but I did not find a comprehensive guide … so I hope this is. Sorry no pics.

2019 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4

Rear brake pads Ford JB3Z-2200-D (about $75 shipped)
Caliper grease, service tool (see below)

4 pads plus 4 caliper bolts, the 4 retaining ”slides” that the pads slide on, and 2 clips for each pad end which I assume prevents squeaking. I did not remove/replace the rotors. It would be nice to turn/clean them, but auto parts stores don’t do this anymore.

Remove caliper from bracket/rotor, 2 caliper bolts. Lubricate caliper pins. Be sure boots in good shape.

You do not have to remove the emergency brake cable from the caliper. I supported the caliper on a spare jack stand while servicing.

I had to remove the caliper bracket to get the new pads seated. It would seem you could do this without the removal, but try as I might, I could not get the new pads+clips seated properly with the bracket on the hub. So, I took it off, cleaned the bracket well, replaced ”slides”, seated new pads with new clips, slid assembly over rotor, bolted back on.

Now the goal is to “simply” retract, re-seat the caliper piston so that it again fits over the new (thicker) pads. This REQUIRES a special tool. Because of the internal complexity of rear calipers handling both brake pedal (hydraulic) input and/or emergency/hand brake cable, the rear caliper piston must be turned as it is squeezed. Furthermore, the drivers side caliper must be turned COUNTER CLOCKWISE as it is compressed, the passenger side CLOCKWISE. This tool I purchased on Amazon worked reasonably well
Astro 78618 Brake Caliper Wind Back Tool Set - 18 Piece https://a.co/d/2Z8GKl0
although the “squeezer” turning pin bent on the drivers side. Would be nice if it were sturdier.

Open hood and loosen brake fluid cap (release pressure). Leave hood open; don’t close with loose cap. Expose brake fluid to outside air as little as possible.

On drivers side, use LH squeezer, RH on passenger. #7 plate fit caliper piston pin holes perfectly. Get plate, backing plate, squeezer hand tight in caliper. Using 22mm end wrench, apply some pressure then turn squeezer. It’s a little tricky … not TOO much pressure (like I did on drivers side and bent tool handle) … just a little, turn, little more pressure, turn … the 2nd one was much easier that the first and no bent handle. BTW I started by spraying the piston with silicone. Not sure if this is recommended.

I had to remove the caliper bracket to get the new pads seated. It would seem you could do this without the removal, but try as I might, I could not get the new pads/pins seated properly with the bracket on the hub. So, I took it off, cleaned the bracket well, replaced races (little metal parts the pads slide in), seated new pads with new clips, slid assembly over rotor, bolted back on.

Now the goal is to “simply” retract, re-seat the caliper piston so that it again fits over the new (thicker) pads. This REQUIRES a special tool. Because of the internal complexity of rear calipers handling both brake pedal (hydraulic) input and/or emergency/hand brake cable, the rear caliper piston must be turned as it is squeezed. Furthermore, the drivers side caliper must be turned COUNTER CLOCKWISE as it is compressed, the passenger side CLOCKWISE. This tool I purchased on Amazon worked reasonably well
Astro 78618 Brake Caliper Wind Back Tool Set - 18 Piece https://a.co/d/2Z8GKl0
although the “squeezer” turning pin bent on the drivers side. Would be nice if it were sturdier.

Open hood and loosen brake fluid cap. Leave hood open; don’t close with loose cap. Expose brake fluid to outside air as little as possible.

On drivers side, use LH squeezer, RH on passenger. #7 plate fit caliper piston pin holes perfectly. Get plate, backing plate, squeezer hand tight in caliper. Using 22mm end wrench, apply some pressure then turn squeezer. It’s a little tricky … not TOO much pressure (like I did on drivers side and bent tool handle) … just a little, turn, little more pressure, turn … the 2nd one was much easier that the first and no bent handle. BTW I started by spraying the piston with silicone. Not sure if this is recommended.

To Clarify, final resting fully seated caliper piston - should be in this position, an important detail left out of this description.

Ref: Turning Rotors - Oreily's Autoparts - Stil Turn Rotors

 

[chaps]

To Clarify, final resting fully seated caliper piston - should be in this position, an important detail left out of this description.

Ref: Turning Rotors - Oreily's Autoparts - Stil Turn Rotors

Interesting! Did not know that... I just went as far as it would go, which cleared the new pads. Thanks!

 

[Muffin1]

The specialty piston tool is only needed for the rears cause of the parking brake setup?
The fronts can be depressed the old fashioned way ,C-clamp??

 

[airline tech]

The specialty piston tool is only needed for the rears cause of the parking brake setup?
The fronts can be depressed the old fashioned way ,C-clamp??

Yes and Yes

 

[dmeyers8]

Great write up! I was able to retract the pistons using the "cube" tool that fits multiple rear piston slots and attaches to the end of a socket. But applying pressure AND turning the socket was a real challenge. This was my first vehicle with a "screw in" set up and what a PIA. I'll get the tool for next time. And FWIW, if you forget which way to turn the piston, there is an arrow on the bottom of the caliper for reference. You can barely see if here through all the corrosion.

 

[06Warrior]

Thanks for the info. Will be replacing my rear brakes when spring rolls around.

 

[GhostStrykre]

i'm about to do this service. i've done it before on other ford vehicles and it was quite similar. this time around, however, i have AGS Sil-Glyde on hand. it worked wonderfully for my motorcycle at killing noise.

has anyone used this product before with their car or truck? i was going put a thin layer of it on the back plate of the brake pad, as i've always done, but saw some discussion elsewhere on the web saying not to use sil-glyde for that. the manufacturer seems to suggest it's fine to do.

anyone got any thoughts on it?

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