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Plug removal

Mighty Little Blue

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Mighty Little Blue

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This is the post I was talking about some very good info from a well trusted source. He has helped many people on this forum.

So, with the known problem and the high possibility of it breaking off in the head, it may be wise to let a dealer do it, mainly due to the fact if it breaks off you have at least a 50/50 shot at getting it covered under a warranty claim. Depending on Dealer.
If you DIY, it will all be on you with ZERO warranty claim possibilities.

Now if you tackle this yourself. I would follow the following procedure. I have dealt with corroded bolts in my career and even a few corroded plugs. None on the Ranger (YET)
But since we cannot get a propane or welding torch down there to heat it up, the following procedure - SHOULD work.

1. Spray Brake Clean, down in the hole and let it soak, get a thin rag or small pipe cleaner brush and wipe what you can - To break up and clean the debris out of the hole.

2. Use a Blow Gun and blow out debris and brake clean that has not evaporated.

3. Get a good quality - spray lubricant - I recommend KROIL it has excellent creep quality.
Let it soak for 8 hours or so.

4. Blow out the hole again, with blow gun and then follow with brake clean and blow out again.
Reason for this: You do not want to get any lubricant on the COP boots, and you will be starting engine in step #5

5. Install the COP back on the plug, and run engine for about 10 minutes, you are wanting to get the plugs warm (not hot)
In this instance - Following the manual is highly recommended.
Ref: This Service Note from the manuals

NOTICE: Do not remove the spark plugs when the engine is hot or cold soaked. Spark plug thread or cylinder head damage can occur. Make sure that the engine is warm (hand touch after cooling down) prior to spark plug removal.

6. Shut engine off and spray some more lubricant down in the hole, this is the working lube as you remove the plug.

7. DO NOT go full bore at trying to remove it, this I believe is where and why the plugs are breaking off. BABY STEPS, CCW 1/4 Turn, CW back to tighten, CCW 1/2 Turn, CW back to tighten, turning it a little farther on each try.
The reason for this: If you go FULL BORE, the corrosion on the threads will seize up and create so much tension that the plug breaks off.
This process of CCW / CW allows the lubricant to work into the threads and break up the corrosion it also helps in cleaning the threads when going back to CW.

Ref this video I found online for explanation and technique.

How to Remove Seized or Stuck Spark Plugs - YouTube

I have a feeling if this technique is followed, there should not ever be any broken plugs.

8. Once the plug is out, I would use a new or old clean threaded plug and clean out the threads of the hole, using the same technique as the removal, just a small amount at a time (CW / CCW) until you are able to thread the new plug in all the way by hand pressure on the extension.
Once you have the threads clean, spray a SMALL AMOUNT of brake clean down in the hole, you are wanting to clean the lubricant off of the threads.
Once clean - Install New Plug

Now the manuals do not specifically call out for Anti-Seize, in fact most spark plug manufactures state do not use it for this type of plug.
But I will say, as a preventive maintenance with (ZERO) water noted in my plug wells I pulled mine and Anti-Seized them @ 8,700 miles.

9. I also highly recommend replacing the COP on any plug that was drowning in water. mainly due to the fact that you also have corrosion inside the boot.

Good Luck
 

TJC

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I pulled mine and applied a light coating of Anti-Seize compound. Man, the torque specs are very light for the spark plugs! I was quite surprised. I really wanted to snug them up a little more but resisted the temptation. It just felt all wrong...
 


got3fords

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Well I'm almost 74 and lots of arthritis, back is worn to a sh*t, neck vertebrae are fused. But I reason that if I stop doing all my own work - well that will likely be the end of doing it as once you stop doing stuff and you try again at a later time - it will likely be even more difficult on your body.
Now what really irks me as I'm at my daughters townhome - her garage door opener failed and she wanted the temp turned up on here tankless hot water heater - the mfgs clearly don't want you to work on stuff but to call a repair man, changing the temp on water heater involves taking the whole front panel off, the garage door opener is a liftmaster 98022 - the owners manual is next to worthless, this is where youtube posts can be valuable as thoughtful technicians post how to clear codes and program the opener for the type of door, but then you find out that it's actually a failure prone piece of crap.
And I've been reading articles on the "right to repair" debate for autos going on the DC , another example where mfgs want to limit your DIY and feed the repair shops.
Changing spark plugs on the 2.3 - piece of cake.
Did you get the garage door fixed? I ask because I used to work on/install garage doors for a living. A non-working opener could be broken door springs, and the opener may not be able to lift the entire weight of the door, and just give up.
 

woodworker

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Did you get the garage door fixed? I ask because I used to work on/install garage doors for a living. A non-working opener could be broken door springs, and the opener may not be able to lift the entire weight of the door, and just give up.
My friend in Williamsburg never had an opener installed when they had the house built because someone told them there was not enough overhead clearance to install a chain drive opener. I said that is bovine fecal matter. Called the new local company. They came by and said no problem at all. They installed a direct drive that goes right on the end of the spring shaft. I got up in the attic and ran power to it and it works like a champ. She said and all those years we been lifting that big door by hand!!! 😁
 

got3fords

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My friend in Williamsburg never had an opener installed when they had the house built because someone told them there was not enough overhead clearance to install a chain drive opener. I said that is bovine fecal matter. Called the new local company. They came by and said no problem at all. They installed a direct drive that goes right on the end of the spring shaft. I got up in the attic and ran power to it and it works like a champ. She said and all those years we been lifting that big door by hand!!! 😁
I have done some pretty innovative installs myself. Where there's a will there's a way.
 

woodworker

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I have done some pretty innovative installs myself. Where there's a will there's a way.
I had an opener installed in my son’s garage with about a nine foot ceiling. They had to get creative there too. His 2500 Ram roof was so close to the trip lever that he had to cut about two inches off it but it worked. 😁👍
 

woodworker

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My friend in Williamsburg never had an opener installed when they had the house built because someone told them there was not enough overhead clearance to install a chain drive opener. I said that is bovine fecal matter. Called the new local company. They came by and said no problem at all. They installed a direct drive that goes right on the end of the spring shaft. I got up in the attic and ran power to it and it works like a champ. She said and all those years we been lifting that big door by hand!!! 😁
BTW, she’s sitting on 149,667 and is scheduled to go in to the Ford dealer Thursday for complete fluid change depending on the weather:
 

dtech

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Did you get the garage door fixed? I ask because I used to work on/install garage doors for a living. A non-working opener could be broken door springs, and the opener may not be able to lift the entire weight of the door, and just give up.
I've installed garage door openers several times and also replaced broken springs - won't do springs anymore because of the risk involved, gave away my tension sticks. Daughter's townhome is still covered by a 1 yr warranty which should cover the liftmaster repair, her opener quit working and gave a 4 - 1 code - excessive down force detected. I was able to open and close the door by the up/down arrows on the unit and at a certain point in the door travel you could hear roughness from the motor and the whole unit shook slightly from the strain, cleared the error code but it came back. I was quick to call the unit junk as several installers posted that they wouldn't recommend the opener owing to it's level of sensitivity causing problems like I detailed, supposedly liftmaster improved the unit in 2025 and sent some SW updates via WIFI which was not enabled. this unit is direct drive, sitting by the side of the garage door and it comes with full battery backup . In working the door with the opener disconnected I felt the springs might not be properly tensioned, it balanced halfway open and closed easily, going to the full open position required significantly greater force. The garage door people are scheduled to vist her tomorrow so we'll see. She already needed to have her entire floor replaced as the installers didn't use the proper glue, and a number of other minor things that showed lack of quality workmenship, seems like it's a common occurence.
My experience with door openers was with chain or belt driven overhead units where you manually adjusted the limits.
 

Burnt Money

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It’s easy to change the plugs. I changed mine for the first time a couple weeks ago. At 103,000 miles I was definitely concerned about the rust. No issues and no rust. Probably took 30min. Sadly, I had the new plugs laying in the garage 6 months before I finally changed them.
 

got3fords

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I've installed garage door openers several times and also replaced broken springs - won't do springs anymore because of the risk involved, gave away my tension sticks. Daughter's townhome is still covered by a 1 yr warranty which should cover the liftmaster repair, her opener quit working and gave a 4 - 1 code - excessive down force detected. I was able to open and close the door by the up/down arrows on the unit and at a certain point in the door travel you could hear roughness from the motor and the whole unit shook slightly from the strain, cleared the error code but it came back. I was quick to call the unit junk as several installers posted that they wouldn't recommend the opener owing to it's level of sensitivity causing problems like I detailed, supposedly liftmaster improved the unit in 2025 and sent some SW updates via WIFI which was not enabled. this unit is direct drive, sitting by the side of the garage door and it comes with full battery backup . In working the door with the opener disconnected I felt the springs might not be properly tensioned, it balanced halfway open and closed easily, going to the full open position required significantly greater force. The garage door people are scheduled to vist her tomorrow so we'll see. She already needed to have her entire floor replaced as the installers didn't use the proper glue, and a number of other minor things that showed lack of quality workmenship, seems like it's a common occurence.
My experience with door openers was with chain or belt driven overhead units where you manually adjusted the limits.
Sounds like they screwed up the install on that door, like improper or under-wound springs.
 

TJC

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Sounds like they screwed up the install on that door, like improper or under-wound springs.
I've installed several sets of garage doors over the years. The process is simple, but errors in judgement can be deadly. I just had a spring break a year ago, and replaced both. While I was at it I replaced all the rollers. Again, not mechanically difficult, but you must be diligent to be safe. I actually oil those springs annually with a very light spray... keeps the friction down. Balancing the load is important (spring tension needs to be equal), and minimizng load on the motor is also important.

Not hard work, but attention to detail is paramount for a safe installation that insures long life.
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