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Passenger Compartment Fuses

taildraggerpilot

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Isn't #35 always on according to chart above?
I went out to a cold dark truck and checked the USB jacks tied to fuse 35 (spare) and there was no power to them until the truck was turned on. That’s the setup I desired.
 

BladeRanger

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Thanks for posting this. I will need it in the near future.
 

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I tapped into fuse 37 (listed as a spare) to power my mag safe charger. Fuse 37 has power when the truck is running and no power when the truck is off
[/QUOTE]
 
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I went out to a cold dark truck and checked the USB jacks tied to fuse 35 (spare) and there was no power to them until the truck was turned on. That’s the setup I desired.
I changed 35 to ignition on the first post, thanks.
 


Adamcarr

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Thank you for posting this. I just went through the same exercise for a dashcam install. Should'a looked here first!
Which fuse # did you end up going with for dash cam install?
 

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Can i ask which fuse taps are you guys using? The fuse taps I found online won't fit into the fuse block very well. Seems like the metal blades on the tap aren't long enough to seat into the fuse block socket. Feels like the plastic around the taps metal blades are too thick and is blocked by the fuse block. I have both micro2 and micro3 taps.
 
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Can i ask which fuse taps are you guys using? The fuse taps I found online won't fit into the fuse block very well. Seems like the metal blades on the tap aren't long enough to seat into the fuse block socket. Feels like the plastic around the taps metal blades are too thick and is blocked by the fuse block. I have both micro2 and micro3 taps.
You would use a micro2 type fuse. There are other fuse types in the ranger (something like 5+ different types), but micro2 will be the easiest tap to find.
 

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WideTrx

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OK, those are roughly the same ones I purchased on ebay. The part highlighted below of the tap seems to hit the plastic part of the fuse socket before I can seat the metal blades far enough for it to be seated well. A slight tug on the wire attached to the tap pulls it out fairly easy. I wish I could find a set of taps that have longer metal blades on them.

FuseTapTemp.webp
 

ROBERTECOX

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OK, those are roughly the same ones I purchased on ebay. The part highlighted below of the tap seems to hit the plastic part of the fuse socket before I can seat the metal blades far enough for it to be seated well. A slight tug on the wire attached to the tap pulls it out fairly easy. I wish I could find a set of taps that have longer metal blades on them.

FuseTapTemp.PNG
the ones I got went in easily, I think I read in post where somebody took a Dremel to the plug and removed some of the plastic to make it fit.
 

hughesjv

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So, I wanted to hook-up a wireless charger and 3D printed bracket I got from @DirkM (look here for details) to one of the passenger compartment fuses via a tap. I was looking to hook it up to an accessory fuse. I was not able to find anything that told me what the power availability was for the fuses in the passenger compartment, so I mapped them out myself. Here are the results of that testing.

This is from a 2021 XLT.

Passenger Compartment Fuses

2021_Ranger_Passenger_Fusebox.png

Fuse or Relay Number Fuse Rating Protected Component Power Availability
1-Not used.No Power
27.5ANot used (spare).Always On
320ADriver door lock.Always On
45ANot used (spare).No Power
520ABranded audio amplifier.Always On
610ANot used (spare).No Power
710ANot used (spare).No Power
810AAnti-theft alarm horn.Always On
910ATelematics.Always On
105ANot used (spare).Always On
115ANot used (spare).Always On
127.5AElectronic control panel. Climate control.Always On
137.5AInstrument cluster. Steering column control module. Data link connector.Always On
1410AExtended power module (for restraints module and occupant module).Always On
1510ASYNC Module. Data link connector.Always On
1615ANot used (spare).Always On
175ANot used (spare).Always On
185AIgnition switch. Lock solenoid. Push button start.Always On
197.5AExtended power module (for restraints module and occupant module).Ignition
207.5AAuxiliary switches.Ignition
215AHumidity and in-car temperature sensor.Ignition
225ANot used (spare).Ignition
2310AInverter. Door lock switch.Accessory
2420ACentral locking system.Always On
2530ADriver door power window.Always On
2630ANot used (spare).Always On
2730ANot used (spare).Always On
2820ABranded audio amplifier.Always On
2930ANot used (spare).Always On
3030ANot used (spare).Always On
3115ASYNC.Always On
3210ARadio transceiver module. Door entry remote.Always On
3320AAudio unit.Always On
3430ARun/start relay.Always On
355ANot used (spare).Ignition
3615AAuto-dimming interior mirror. Mirror adjustment control.Ignition
3720ANot used (spare).Ignition
3830APower windows.
Are all the fuses 12 Volts? I know the battery is 12, but are there step-down voltage fuses?
 

hughesjv

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Are all the fuses 12 Volts? I know the battery is 12, but are there step-down voltage fuses?
Found my own answer...

" In each car, all the fuses are the same voltage. In the majority of vehicles that means that they all have 12 volts running through them. Fuses are rated by amperage, the amount of current that can flow through the fuse before the fuse melts, shutting off the circuit. "

Teach me to have been in electronics in my previous career when we stepped voltages often on things we needed. I guess there has to be a step down at the USB ports as 12V would fry the USB devices (at least could depending on the amps).
 

airline tech

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Found my own answer...

" In each car, all the fuses are the same voltage. In the majority of vehicles that means that they all have 12 volts running through them. Fuses are rated by amperage, the amount of current that can flow through the fuse before the fuse melts, shutting off the circuit. "

Teach me to have been in electronics in my previous career when we stepped voltages often on things we needed. I guess there has to be a step down at the USB ports as 12V would fry the USB devices (at least could depending on the amps).
Affirmative if it is VBAT or VPWR it will be 12 volts (varying) with alternator voltage.
If it is VREF or voltage being supplied by a module (BCM - PCM- FCIM etc) it will be regulated voltage such as 5 volts , which normally will be between 4.5 to 4.7 volts actual voltage.

Then you have VREF 9 Volt circuit.
and also a VBPWR circuit that provides constant 12 volts actual voltage to some modules that cannot handle the alternating fluctuations of 12 volt power (alternator)
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