Passenger Compartment Fuses

[Dunneldeen]

So, I wanted to hook-up a wireless charger and 3D printed bracket I got from @DirkM (look here for details) to one of the passenger compartment fuses via a tap. I was looking to hook it up to an accessory fuse. I was not able to find anything that told me what the power availability was for the fuses in the passenger compartment, so I mapped them out myself. Here are the results of that testing.

This is from a 2021 XLT.

Passenger Compartment Fuses

Fuse or Relay Number	Fuse Rating	Protected Component	Power Availability
1	-	Not used.	No Power
2	7.5A	Not used (spare).	Always On
3	20A	Driver door lock.	Always On
4	5A	Not used (spare).	No Power
5	20A	Branded audio amplifier.	Always On
6	10A	Not used (spare).	No Power
7	10A	Not used (spare).	No Power
8	10A	Anti-theft alarm horn.	Always On
9	10A	Telematics.	Always On
10	5A	Not used (spare).	Always On
11	5A	Not used (spare).	Always On
12	7.5A	Electronic control panel. Climate control.	Always On
13	7.5A	Instrument cluster. Steering column control module. Data link connector.	Always On
14	10A	Extended power module (for restraints module and occupant module).	Always On
15	10A	SYNC Module. Data link connector.	Always On
16	15A	Not used (spare).	Always On
17	5A	Not used (spare).	Always On
18	5A	Ignition switch. Lock solenoid. Push button start.	Always On
19	7.5A	Extended power module (for restraints module and occupant module).	Ignition
20	7.5A	Auxiliary switches.	Ignition
21	5A	Humidity and in-car temperature sensor.	Ignition
22	5A	Not used (spare).	Ignition
23	10A	Inverter. Door lock switch.	Accessory
24	20A	Central locking system.	Always On
25	30A	Driver door power window.	Always On
26	30A	Not used (spare).	Always On
27	30A	Not used (spare).	Always On
28	20A	Branded audio amplifier.	Always On
29	30A	Not used (spare).	Always On
30	30A	Not used (spare).	Always On
31	15A	SYNC.	Always On
32	10A	Radio transceiver module. Door entry remote.	Always On
33	20A	Audio unit.	Always On
34	30A	Run/start relay.	Always On
35	5A	Not used (spare).	Ignition
36	15A	Auto-dimming interior mirror. Mirror adjustment control.	Ignition
37	20A	Not used (spare).	Ignition
38	30A	Power windows.

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[Delirious]

Not exactly sure what you're looking for. Using a fuse that allows you to put the original fuse back in there plus a fuse for whatever you're connecting to it. I did that on my left-hand side fuse box for an outlet for my radar detector so it will shut off when I turn off the ignition plus I have another fuse tap in there for my dash cams using a Power Magic Pro that allows the dash cams to stay on in parking mode for as much of a time as I want it or until the voltage drops at a predetermined setting by me which in my case is 12.2 V. (I had dead battery issues at 12.1 V)

 

[Dunneldeen]

Guess I wasn't too clear on the project that prompted the results of my post.

I added a micro2 tap to fuse position 23, wired to a 12v marine socket and Qualcomm 3.0 quick charge adapter. The wireless charger cable routes along the left side of the center console in the crack (based on input from someone else in that other thread) and plugs into the charge adapter. Loose wires and the marine plug are zip tied in the space under the steering wheel, behind the fuse panel fascia. I did this so that the wireless charger could be left plugged in without taking up either of the 12v adapters in the center console.

 

[BCRanger]

I think this might be what I'm looking for, I've been trying to find a positive lead to detect ignition. But when it says ignition does that literally mean the engine / alternator is running? Or just that the power button (i.e. w/ or w/o foot on brake) has been pushed? e.g. are the Aux buttons really not active unless the engine is running? (Excluding stop/start..)

 

[Jedadiah]

I used 35 today to wire up my Homelink garage door opener, and it's only hot with ignition on. I went and double checked after seeing this and the opener only works with the key on. I was going to use 37, which I tested as ignition as well, but the add a circuit hits the edge of the box there and wouldn't seat.

 

[Jedadiah]

I think this might be what I'm looking for, I've been trying to find a positive lead to detect ignition. But when it says ignition does that literally mean the engine / alternator is running? Or just that the power button (i.e. w/ or w/o foot on brake) has been pushed? e.g. are the Aux buttons really not active unless the engine is running? (Excluding stop/start..)

Ignition on should be with the key in the on position on trucks with keys, and on the keyless models, it should be with one push of the button but not holding to start. Just like you would have it if you wanted to roll your windows down without starting the truck.

 

[BCRanger]

Ignition on should be with the key in the on position on trucks with keys, and on the keyless models, it should be with one push of the button but not holding to start. Just like you would have it if you wanted to roll your windows down without starting the truck.

Got it. I'm racking my brain trying to think of a circuit that would be on only when the engine is actually running. (Attaching a DC-DC system and smart alternator makes that tricky. While I could live with draw on accessory power only it would really be less worry of main battery drain to just have it drawing when engine is actually running.)

 

[Dunneldeen]

I didn't actually start the car for any of the testing. It was all with my key out of the ignition, with it at one click (accessory) or with it in the second (ignition) position but not started.

 

[JRRangerAZ]

So, I wanted to hook-up a wireless charger and 3D printed bracket I got from @DirkM (look here for details) to one of the passenger compartment fuses via a tap. I was looking to hook it up to an accessory fuse. I was not able to find anything that told me what the power availability was for the fuses in the passenger compartment, so I mapped them out myself. Here are the results of that testing.

This is from a 2021 XLT.

Passenger Compartment Fuses

Fuse or Relay Number	Fuse Rating	Protected Component	Power Availability
1	-	Not used.	No Power
2	7.5A	Not used (spare).	Always On
3	20A	Driver door lock.	Always On
4	5A	Not used (spare).	No Power
5	20A	Branded audio amplifier.	Always On
6	10A	Not used (spare).	No Power
7	10A	Not used (spare).	No Power
8	10A	Anti-theft alarm horn.	Always On
9	10A	Telematics.	Always On
10	5A	Not used (spare).	Always On
11	5A	Not used (spare).	Always On
12	7.5A	Electronic control panel. Climate control.	Always On
13	7.5A	Instrument cluster. Steering column control module. Data link connector.	Always On
14	10A	Extended power module (for restraints module and occupant module).	Always On
15	10A	SYNC Module. Data link connector.	Always On
16	15A	Not used (spare).	Always On
17	5A	Not used (spare).	Always On
18	5A	Ignition switch. Lock solenoid. Push button start.	Always On
19	7.5A	Extended power module (for restraints module and occupant module).	Ignition
20	7.5A	Auxiliary switches.	Ignition
21	5A	Humidity and in-car temperature sensor.	Ignition
22	5A	Not used (spare).	Ignition
23	10A	Inverter. Door lock switch.	Accessory
24	20A	Central locking system.	Always On
25	30A	Driver door power window.	Always On
26	30A	Not used (spare).	Always On
27	30A	Not used (spare).	Always On
28	20A	Branded audio amplifier.	Always On
29	30A	Not used (spare).	Always On
30	30A	Not used (spare).	Always On
31	15A	SYNC.	Always On
32	10A	Radio transceiver module. Door entry remote.	Always On
33	20A	Audio unit.	Always On
34	30A	Run/start relay.	Always On
35	5A	Not used (spare).	Always On
36	15A	Auto-dimming interior mirror. Mirror adjustment control.	Ignition
37	20A	Not used (spare).	Ignition
38	30A	Power windows.

Thank you for posting this. I just went through the same exercise for a dashcam install. Should'a looked here first!

 

[micl9]

Very helpful
Thanks for sharing!
Should get stickied

Need to do this for the engine compartment

 

[AdamHarris]

Very nice Very nice, thank you for the hard work!

 

[taildraggerpilot]

#35 is a good choice for an ignition switched tap-a-fuse.

 

[taildraggerpilot]

Thank you for posting this. I just went through the same exercise for a dashcam install. Should'a looked here first!

There are ODB2 splitters available for dashcams. These would allow for most active monitoring modes that pretty much all modern dashcams have.

 

[taildraggerpilot]

Here’s a nice, informative website that breaks down the Ranger’s fuse box info:

https://fuse-box.info/ford/ford-ranger-2019-fuses-and-relays

 

[Msfitoy]

#35 is a good choice for an ignition switched tap-a-fuse.

Isn't #35 always on according to chart above?

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