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Not another will it fit thread.

Sardog

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Ok, it is but I have a good reason. I am currently deployed out of the country for the NAVY and my wife is saying the truck needs new tires. I am pretty sure what I have selected should fit with no modification required to the crash bars, however I am unable to go and take measurements for myself. Also my internet bandwidth is too limited on the ship to go pouring over all of the threads to find information.

My truck has 3 in eibach coil overs up front, OME 1.7in spring lift in the back, 1.5 in spacers installed, and Bushwacker fender flares with 18 in rims. I am looking to change to 285/65R18 tires. I am planning on keeping the rims and possibly removing the spacers once I return from deployment if the wider tire fills out the fender flares.

If anyone has a similar setup and can tell me if this would work or not that would be fantastic. Also if there are any shop recommendations in San Diego that could do the work that would be great also.
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D Fresh

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Factory wheels?

As far as I know that'll put you into the crashbars.

My 255s on Factory wheels could not move out another 2 â…ť" without getting into the bars.

What size tires are on it now?


Also, my wife usually says a vehicle needs tires about 6 months to a year before they're NEEDED.
 

Bob902

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Also, my wife usually says a vehicle needs tires about 6 months to a year before they're NEEDED.
You are lucky. My wife says her car needs new tires six months after they were needed.
 

DukeCanBuildit

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Hey Jason,

Thank you for your service and helping keep folks safe. You’re right to ask because this seems almost too close to call. It’s also tough to try and manage things like this from a ship, so I’ll try to give you as much information as I can on this issue - apologies for the long-winded post.

I don’t have the exact same setup but close. I have the Bushwacker flares and ran 275/70R17s (32.2”) with a 2/1/2” level on +15mm offset wheels. Tires were still inside the fender flare by 1/2” or so and I only had 1/4” clearance on rear crash bars and better than 1/2” on front bars at full lock after angling them out of the way and removing the plastic covers from the fronts. Basically, too close for comfort and would cause problems off-road, for sure. My offset is just too low - crash bars were replaced with ReadyLIFT beams.

With your factory wheels and those 1-1/2” spacers, you’re effectively at +17mm offset. Your taller lift will offer some help but that larger diameter (32.6”) will pretty much wash that out. You will be close to flush with the flares because of the wider tire but now, you’re even closer to the crash bars at full lock. Any relief you may have gained from the added lift (you’re higher on the arc of the wheel) might not be enough to keep you clear. If you remove the spacers, it might clear the bars but with those wider 285s, you run the very likely risk of the inside of the tire now rubbing on the knuckle. If so, then a 1/2” spacer would keep you clear of the knuckle and might not push you into the crash bars. It’s a dance.

Also, guys on here will say they have a certain setup with no issues then a few posts later we learn they mean they have “slight rubbing” but “only past 3/4 lock“. You need to be clear of front and rear crash at full lock and while compressed. A good test is to crank it to full lock and back up fast. Try both directions. Then do a tight, quick three point turn - like you’re in a hurry. Try both directions. You will compress in these situations at full lock and you’ll know if you have an issue or not. When the tire’s knobs rub, it will feel like you’re trying turn in 4WD on dry pavement.

If your wife can manage, all this, you’re golden - and she’s awesome. If it seems like too much, ask her to have a tire shop measure and provide the remaining tread depth of your tires so you can make the proper call on whether to do it now or when you return. They might not “need” replacing as much as the tire shop “needs” a sale.

Good luck.
 


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Chances are you will be fine with that tire size.
 
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Sardog

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Hey Jason,

Thank you for your service and helping keep folks safe. You’re right to ask because this seems almost too close to call. It’s also tough to try and manage things like this from a ship, so I’ll try to give you as much information as I can on this issue - apologies for the long-winded post.

I don’t have the exact same setup but close. I have the Bushwacker flares and ran 275/70R17s (32.2”) with a 2/1/2” level on +15mm offset wheels. Tires were still inside the fender flare by 1/2” or so and I only had 1/4” clearance on rear crash bars and better than 1/2” on front bars at full lock after angling them out of the way and removing the plastic covers from the fronts. Basically, too close for comfort and would cause problems off-road, for sure. My offset is just too low - crash bars were replaced with ReadyLIFT beams.

With your factory wheels and those 1-1/2” spacers, you’re effectively at +17mm offset. Your taller lift will offer some help but that larger diameter (32.6”) will pretty much wash that out. You will be close to flush with the flares because of the wider tire but now, you’re even closer to the crash bars at full lock. Any relief you may have gained from the added lift (you’re higher on the arc of the wheel) might not be enough to keep you clear. If you remove the spacers, it might clear the bars but with those wider 285s, you run the very likely risk of the inside of the tire now rubbing on the knuckle. If so, then a 1/2” spacer would keep you clear of the knuckle and might not push you into the crash bars. It’s a dance.

Also, guys on here will say they have a certain setup with no issues then a few posts later we learn they mean they have “slight rubbing” but “only past 3/4 lock“. You need to be clear of front and rear crash at full lock and while compressed. A good test is to crank it to full lock and back up fast. Try both directions. Then do a tight, quick three point turn - like you’re in a hurry. Try both directions. You will compress in these situations at full lock and you’ll know if you have an issue or not. When the tire’s knobs rub, it will feel like you’re trying turn in 4WD on dry pavement.

If your wife can manage, all this, you’re golden - and she’s awesome. If it seems like too much, ask her to have a tire shop measure and provide the remaining tread depth of your tires so you can make the proper call on whether to do it now or when you return. They might not “need” replacing as much as the tire shop “needs” a sale.

Good luck.
Thank you everyone for the responses, in this case I knew before I left the tires only had about 3-4k left in them (and that was being generous) so I know they are about done now. She won't take it off roading so I am not overly concerned with full compression. Once I get back if it is that close I will cut the bars if needed. I may go down in size a bit just to be safe though.
 
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DukeCanBuildit

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Tha k you everyone for the responses, in this case I knew before I left the tires only had about 3-4k left in them (and that was being generous) so I know they are about done now. She won't take it off roading so I am not overly concerned with full compression. Once I get back if it is that close I will cut the bars if needed. I may go down in size a bit just to be safe though.
Hey Jason, I hope it works out. The ReadyLIFT Anti-intrusion beams gave me a lot more clearance and extra peace of mind. After I swapped the level kit out for Fox Performance coilovers set at 2”, I still have room.

Fingers crossed for you - pics when you’re back. ? ?
 
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Sardog

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Hey Jason, I hope it works out. The ReadyLIFT Anti-intrusion beams gave me a lot more clearance and extra peace of mind. After I swapped the level kit out for Fox Performance coilovers set at 2”, I still have room.

Fingers crossed for you - pics when you’re back. ? ?
Would consider it but there is no way the wife would know how to do them.
 

Bob902

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Would consider it but there is no way the wife would know how to do them.
Maybe see if the tire shop would put them on for her.
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