Light Bars??

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BHunted

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I made an offer on it however just realized that our bracket bolts on underneath. I'd love to use the oem holes

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Think you missed something. You need the factory bracket for it to work. Just like you slide and bolt your license plate, this goes into the slots on the bracket. We don't require front plates in TN, so the bracket slides in and gets bolted onto the license plate bracket. I just chose to put a flag over it.
 

Fawnbuster

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Think you missed something. You need the factory bracket for it to work. Just like you slide and bolt your license plate, this goes into the slots on the bracket. We don't require front plates in TN, so the bracket slides in and gets bolted onto the license plate bracket. I just chose to put a flag over it.
Thanks. Is the oem plastic strong enough to withstand the torque weight of an added steel bracket and a light bar? I really like the idea of a 20 to 30 inch bar there
 

BHunted

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Thanks. Is the oem plastic strong enough to withstand the torque weight of an added steel bracket and a light bar? I really like the idea of a 20 to 30 inch bar there
Well you see mine...? No probs. Lights are really not that heavy.
 


Duwop

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I’ve fabricated a license plate bracket from supplies I’ve got laying around the shop. I used 1” aluminum square tube 26 gauge galvanized flat stock and 6 1/8 in steel rivets. It slides behind the plate required by my state mounted to the factory license plate bracket. AMBROTHER light pods@amazon
12800 lumen will be installed when they arrive.
 

RangerRaptor

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Some observations from an avid off-road enthusiast:
- The lights you buy from Amazon, that seem reasonably priced, are NOT waterproof. Eventually you will get condensation behind the lens, or water intrusion. Rigid, Baja Designs, etc. are 100% waterproof. I've forged many rivers with Rigid lights completely submerged, and never had any issues. Just be aware.
- The factory holes will be fine for holding a lightbar in place for on-road use and gentle off-road use. The trails we run with our Raptors would rip the bracket free eventually. In fairness, these trails can rip the fillings in your teeth loose.
- Cheap lights come with plastic lenses and can easily get scratched or broken by road debris.
- Cheap lights are a LOT dimmer than expensive lights, which may or may not be an issue for you. At 80mph off-road, in the dark, you can easily outrun the light-throw of your aux lighting.
 

Msfitoy

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Some observations from an avid off-road enthusiast:
- The lights you buy from Amazon, that seem reasonably priced, are NOT waterproof. Eventually you will get condensation behind the lens, or water intrusion. Rigid, Baja Designs, etc. are 100% waterproof. I've forged many rivers with Rigid lights completely submerged, and never had any issues. Just be aware.
- The factory holes will be fine for holding a lightbar in place for on-road use and gentle off-road use. The trails we run with our Raptors would rip the bracket free eventually. In fairness, these trails can rip the fillings in your teeth loose.
- Cheap lights come with plastic lenses and can easily get scratched or broken by road debris.
- Cheap lights are a LOT dimmer than expensive lights, which may or may not be an issue for you. At 80mph off-road, in the dark, you can easily outrun the light-throw of your aux lighting.
And more importantly, their optics are absolute crap so the light doesn't focus onto the road...
 

RangerRaptor

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If you guys are looking for a very sturdy, less expensive lightbar mount, I believe Ford or some other vendors sell a tubular mount that uses your tow hook mounting bolts. I think it resembles a tiny bull bar. I’ll try to find a pic.
 
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RangerRaptor

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ISUACE

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More pics and details appreciated. With the Lariat , like most I don’t want to relocate the sensors. Thx bud
Sorry for the late reply... Did you ever get this done? It was some custom jerry rigging, but the parts were all from Tractor Supply or an Ace Hardware. Basically was just two 90 degree angle brackets, some fasteners, washers etc. Just have to get the right threading for it to work in the 2 existing holes.
 

Dmax

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Sorry for the late reply... Did you ever get this done? It was some custom jerry rigging, but the parts were all from Tractor Supply or an Ace Hardware. Basically was just two 90 degree angle brackets, some fasteners, washers etc. Just have to get the right threading for it to work in the 2 existing holes.
I Just jerry rigged the current bracket upside down with some carpeted tape to prevent the rubbing on the edges. It seems to work. I figured I would just take off the front plates when I go on long trips and need the ACC. I never use it so I figured this would be the best way. Still waiting on the lights. been 2 months.
 

codestp202

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After some research I decided to add a 14" light bar to the ranger. I went with 14" as it didn't restrict a lot of airflow like some of the full length bars do.

Light bar:
https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...4-in-spotflood-combo-led-light-bar-64321.html

Wiring harness:
https://www.harborfreight.com/off-road-light-wiring-kit-64330.html

Overall I'm really impressed by the quality of the bar, the light output, and the wiring harness.
I fabbed up my own bracket with some flat bar stock from lowes and utilized the license plate bracket screws. I don't have any photos of the bracket post paint / clean up. I did remove some material from the front of the bracket as it was wider than it needed to be. But for the license plate bottom holes, I cut a small slit into each one, so they can be slotted between the bolt/washer and the bracket so it's still held in place while you are loosely installing the bracket. It is held very well in place w/ blue loctite, and mounting the light bar low enough gives me all the up and down adjustment I'd need to get it aimed properly.

I'm also in the process of upgrading the headlights/fogs with the Auxito 1:1s

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