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I quit my job, but snagged you guys a cool pic on the way out...

Bob902

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Yes, the shut off tap keeps the dash and cabin cooler all summer and doesn't tax the ac system so much(probably saving more fuel than the ASS).
Keeping it partially closed in the winter keeps from overheating the box and really reduces the hot plastics/drying caulking smell which really annoys me about this ranger. The truck smells like a garbage fire after a couple hour drive with the old always hot setup as Ford used crappy non-curing sealants in the heater box.

I will get some pics a little later on.
I agree the smell is obnoxious
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Metalshift

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Here is some pics. The valve fits like it was meant to be there. The dial I installed with a fender washer and put it in where the 12v socket was on my Lightforce aux switch bezel. The hardest part was fishing the wires thru and you barely lose any coolant, as this is the high point in the system.
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2020FX4

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Thanks for sharing the info. and photos.... I'll add this to my project list.
 

RDJTX

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ok I know that what I quoted is from last year but I got relevant comments questions :)

It is just ridiculous to design a vehicle where a Blend door cost $4000 to repair.
Makes me happy that I bought a life time warranty on my Ranger
How the hell did you get a life time warranty? and how much was it if you don't mind saying?

It’s too bad that job wasn’t for you John - I hope that civilian PD job is a better fit. Fingers crossed. ??If not, there’s something out there for everyone. I supported my ex-wife’s career and moved around a lot - always landed on my feet and had some interesting jobs along the way. ??
I was in Germany in 1982 working at the embassy. one of the guys I met was married to a secretary. Seems he had retired and while she worked he did things like take tours with the embassy wives club and all kinds of stuff LOL. dude had it made

whats the chances that goes back together correctly and rattle /squeak free ?
don't know what the final results were but my money says zero
 

djsilver

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Here is some pics. The valve fits like it was meant to be there. The dial I installed with a fender washer and put it in where the 12v socket was on my Lightforce aux switch bezel. The hardest part was fishing the wires thru and you barely lose any coolant, as this is the high point in the system.
P1020255 - Copy.JPG
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P1020261 - Copy.JPG
 

djsilver

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My bypass valve showed up today. Any hints on how you routed the wiring?

BTW, I did something similar but more primitive on an '82 Volvo wagon. Back then Volvo didn't install A/C at the factory, so the US importer installed it. The A/C was very inconsistent, sometimes cold, sometimes not. I did some reading of my Haynes manual and the heater temp control was a capillary valve rather than a cable operated valve. The temperature slider wasn't designed for A/C, so when it was turned on the capillary would open the hot water and cancel it out. I bought two hardware store "repair plates", some bolts and wing nuts. I used them to pinch the heater core hoses in the engine bay and the A/C worked great! For the next ten years of ownership I would tighten the wing nuts when the weather warmed up, and loosen them come winter.
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