Ford Performance Air Oil Separator Installed

[DRVMN]

I just installed the Ford Performance Air Oil Separator, and as others have said, removing the lower hose was definitely painful to the hand and arm! I used a pruning shears to cut the plastic tube, and it made rotating the tube to access the orange clip that needs to be cut much easier. I used a right-angle pick to break the orange clip, and slowly but surely it worked, and the lower hose released. My hand and arm looks like they were in a battle zone - no pain, no gain! I would have taken a video, but all you would hear are “bleeps” from me saying naughty words!!! The new tubes snapped right on, and installation was super easy. On a side note, I had to remove my engine cover, which allowed me to wash it up and make it all pretty again. Now - with a clean engine cover, the engine idles smoother, gas mileage went up by 0.001%, I feel good about myself, and the tailgate damper has never worked better!!!

By the way, I purchased my kit from Levittown Ford out of New York. Took about 10 days for it to arrive here in Minnesota. They had a competitive price. Looks like Stage 3 Motorsports had a similar price point as well. What I like about purchasing a Genuine Ford product, is it should keep my warranty in tact. I shouldn't have to worry about "Your rear differential bearings are faulty, but we can't fix them under warranty because you installed an Air and Oil Separator - Sorry!".

I will update on how often the can needs to be emptied. I live in Minnesota, so we get all kinds of weather from 30 degrees below zero to 100 degrees above zero and humidity.

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[Waltztj]

I have mine in for about 6 months and I looked after an oil change and I just had enough to wet my finger.

 

[TomSim]

I just installed the Ford Performance Air Oil Separator, and as others have said, removing the lower hose was definitely painful to the hand and arm! I used a pruning shears to cut the plastic tube, and it made rotating the tube to access the orange clip that needs to be cut much easier. I used a right-angle pick to break the orange clip, and slowly but surely it worked, and the lower hose released. My hand and arm looks like they were in a battle zone - no pain, no gain! I would have taken a video, but all you would hear are “bleeps” from me saying naughty words!!! The new tubes snapped right on, and installation was super easy. On a side note, I had to remove my engine cover, which allowed me to wash it up and make it all pretty again. Now - with a clean engine cover, the engine idles smoother, gas mileage went up by 0.001%, I feel good about myself, and the tailgate damper has never worked better!!!

By the way, I purchased my kit from Levittown Ford out of New York. Took about 10 days for it to arrive here in Minnesota. They had a competitive price. Looks like Stage 3 Motorsports had a similar price point as well. What I like about purchasing a Genuine Ford product, is it should keep my warranty in tact. I shouldn't have to worry about "Your rear differential bearings are faulty, but we can't fix them under warranty because you installed an Air and Oil Separator - Sorry!".

I will update on how often the can needs to be emptied. I live in Minnesota, so we get all kinds of weather from 30 degrees below zero to 100 degrees above zero and humidity.

what does it do and what is it connected to? is this part of the PCV system?

 

[TomSim]

what does it do and what is it connected to? is this part of the PCV system?

has anyone had any problems with oil and moisture getting past this point in the past?

 

[Stevedbvik1]

has anyone had any problems with oil and moisture getting past this point in the past?

It will be more prevalent in colder climates/seasons

 

[TJC]

I just installed the Ford Performance Air Oil Separator, and as others have said, removing the lower hose was definitely painful to the hand and arm! I used a pruning shears to cut the plastic tube, and it made rotating the tube to access the orange clip that needs to be cut much easier. I used a right-angle pick to break the orange clip, and slowly but surely it worked, and the lower hose released. My hand and arm looks like they were in a battle zone - no pain, no gain! I would have taken a video, but all you would hear are “bleeps” from me saying naughty words!!! The new tubes snapped right on, and installation was super easy. On a side note, I had to remove my engine cover, which allowed me to wash it up and make it all pretty again. Now - with a clean engine cover, the engine idles smoother, gas mileage went up by 0.001%, I feel good about myself, and the tailgate damper has never worked better!!!

Congrats on the successful installation.

Catch can Installations simply suck on the Ranger. I still feel your pain, and I installed the UPR Dual port catch can several years ago! I tell you, even if it didn't work, I ain't takin' it off!

Seriously, it can't hurt and it is good insurance on a DI engine.

 

[JimJa]

I installed the Ford separator last fall, about 4K miles ago. I've drained it twice because it's so easy to do. Each time got about a 1/4 cup of milky liquid. Since it's winter the water condensation in the separator is to be expected. Perhaps I was just lucky, or Ford changed the lower removal clip because I had no difficulty removing it Came right off. Something I was not expecting. Wish I would have installed the separator right after picking up the truck in '19.

 

[DRVMN]

what does it do and what is it connected to? is this part of the PCV system?

The Air/Oil Separator is "spliced" into the PCV line and it's purpose it to "catch" oil and "gunk" before it is circulated through the intake manifold to be burned during combustion. This issue is that the intake valves build up a carbon deposit because the engine is a Direct Injection system, meaning fuel does not enter the combustion chamber via the intake valves, which also keeps the intake valves clean (this is to the best of my understanding and from what I've read/learned). Carbon deposits on the intake valves affect performance, and eventually they need to be cleaned (e.g. walnut blasting, which is like a "sand-blasting" but not nearly as abrasive). A walnut blast is expensive, so the idea is that the air/oil separator AKA "Catch Can" will "catch" the junk that you don't want passing through your engine again. Climate, temperature, warm-up time, etc. all affect how much gunk is collected, so in some cases, it comes down to personal preference as well. I see it as one measure of preventative maintenance. I plan on using the CRC Intake Valve cleaner too.

 

[DRVMN]

Congrats on the successful installation.

Catch can Installations simply suck on the Ranger. I still feel your pain, and I installed the UPR Dual port catch can several years ago! I tell you, even if it didn't work, I ain't takin' it off!

Seriously, it can't hurt and it is good insurance on a DI engine.

Most of my cuts and scrapes came from the various zip ties in that area. In a few weeks, my hands should be back to normal and all healed up!

 

[TomSim]

The Air/Oil Separator is "spliced" into the PCV line and it's purpose it to "catch" oil and "gunk" before it is circulated through the intake manifold to be burned during combustion. This issue is that the intake valves build up a carbon deposit because the engine is a Direct Injection system, meaning fuel does not enter the combustion chamber via the intake valves, which also keeps the intake valves clean (this is to the best of my understanding and from what I've read/learned). Carbon deposits on the intake valves affect performance, and eventually they need to be cleaned (e.g. walnut blasting, which is like a "sand-blasting" but not nearly as abrasive). A walnut blast is expensive, so the idea is that the air/oil separator AKA "Catch Can" will "catch" the junk that you don't want passing through your engine again. Climate, temperature, warm-up time, etc. all affect how much gunk is collected, so in some cases, it comes down to personal preference as well. I see it as one measure of preventative maintenance. I plan on using the CRC Intake Valve cleaner too.

okay, thanks for that, was it hard to instal?

 

[DRVMN]

okay, thanks for that, was it hard to instal?

The worst part of the procedure was disconnecting the lower PCV tube/hose due to the tamper-proof connector. The orange clip needs to be snapped/broken in order to remove the hose. It's in a tight spot, and that's what makes it challenging, along with the cuts and scrapes your hand and arm receive.

 

[TJC]

I removed that hose without breaking anything, but it was a nightmare! Twisting your arm and hands in unnatural ways using touch only, blind to what you were doing.

 

[LawnMM]

It's interesting the wide range of differences people report with these. I have a J&L on mine and just dumped it for the second time in 1000mi, in a dry climate (CO) though we are in winter months

About 6oz out of mine now, though you can tell things were still breaking in. The first time I had a very strong fuel smell and this time not so much. Maybe as the piston rings broke in and provided a better seal and less blow by in the first few thousand miles on the engine

It still caught (or created) a bunch of condensation and grabbed some oil as well and none of that made it back inside the valve cover so... so far so good.

 

[GoGoPowerRanger]

Congrats on the successful installation.

Catch can Installations simply suck on the Ranger. I still feel your pain, and I installed the UPR Dual port catch can several years ago! I tell you, even if it didn't work, I ain't takin' it off!

Seriously, it can't hurt and it is good insurance on a DI engine.

Love that can! Hate the freakin' install! So worth it when you empty it, though.

That's a winter empty. You can see the difference for sure.

 

[23HRPXL]

Most of my cuts and scrapes came from the various zip ties in that area. In a few weeks, my hands should be back to normal and all healed up!

Mine too, people at work asked me what I was doing lol. First oil change since the install coming up, so be interested to see what comes out.

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