armoredpig
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #16
For people installing in the future:
The rear shocks are removed with a 15mm socket. Using an impact gun makes quick work of it. The passenger side upper nut is in a channel that makes it hard to put back in. Try to leave it in that channel!
The shocks won't fall out on their own when the bolts are out, so no worries about getting bonked. Compress the shocks slightly to pull them out.
You will have to jack the truck to get the new ones in though, as the axle droop will help you position the new shocks, which are linger and MUCH harder to compress.
The shocks can be reinstalled in either orientation. I opted for boots down because I read somewhere that boots up can hold salt/grime and also the boots only cover the shaft which is more puncture resistant than the body.
The rear shocks are removed with a 15mm socket. Using an impact gun makes quick work of it. The passenger side upper nut is in a channel that makes it hard to put back in. Try to leave it in that channel!
The shocks won't fall out on their own when the bolts are out, so no worries about getting bonked. Compress the shocks slightly to pull them out.
You will have to jack the truck to get the new ones in though, as the axle droop will help you position the new shocks, which are linger and MUCH harder to compress.
The shocks can be reinstalled in either orientation. I opted for boots down because I read somewhere that boots up can hold salt/grime and also the boots only cover the shaft which is more puncture resistant than the body.
Sponsored
Last edited: