nate237
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1
My factory Fox shocks were tired at 70k, so I ended up replacing them with Eiback Pro-Truck Coilovers and rear Eiback Pro-Truck shocks.
Originally I ordered the Pro-Truck front and rear set without springs. I had intended on using the factory springs but I discovered that the diameter of the Fox and Eibachs differed and I could not use the spring perches from the Fox units. Shock Surplus was great about allowing me to swap out the bare fronts and pay the difference for the coilovers.
Rear shocks were easy as expected.
After reading multiple horror stories about separated CV joints, I decided to go the route of dropping the inside lower control arm mounts.
- I marked the original lower control arm bolts (camber adjusters) in multiple locations, so that I could be reasonably close alignment-wise. You'll need to have an alignment done anyway.
- If you go this route, order at least one extra camber adjuster bolt and nut. I ended up having a set gall up on me and had to wait till Monday to get replacements. I had used a battery impact to remove them, and in hindsight I should have sprayed them with Liquid Wrench and used a ratchet with a cheater bar. Considering they are hot-dipped galvanized, this isn't uncommon.
Bolt: W720555-S439
Nut: W720216-S442
- Once the lower control arm is disconnected on the inner side, the shock is incredibly easy to remove, and you don't have to touch the axle nut, brakes, or worry about the CV joint.
- After the old shock was removed, I bolted the Eibach up.
- To get the lower control arm back in place, first I used a bottle jack to raise it into position where the arm to the rear of the truck could be bolted back. Do not tighten the nuts down until the truck is on the ground.
- I used a ratchet strap and attached it to the hole in the underside of the front arm of each control arm. I first ratcheted the arm back to where the hole was pulled inward enough, then used the bottle jack to lift it into place where the bolt could be inserted.
- Once the tire was back on and the truck lowered, I adjusted the lower control arm bolts to line back up to the witness marks I made earlier. These are to be torqued to 195ft/lbs, so unless you have a big torque wrench and a lot of leverage, just get as tight as you can. (Again, will need to align anyway).
The truck had a 1/2" difference between the driver and passenger side originally. The Eibachs took the truck up almost 1", so I adjusted both to where I was at 1" lift matching on both sides. To adjust, you jack the truck up, spray the threads with silicone spray, and turn clockwise (if looking from the bottom) to raise.
I took it for an alignment and surprisingly everything was within tolerance except for driver side toe and steering angle being slightly out. They adjusted everything closer and torqued down the camber bolts properly. Although the alignment shop was nervous about adaptive cruise and lane assist, both were fine afterwards.
Headlights were pointed way up, so they had to be adjusted down.
The truck feels quite a bit different now. It feels taller to me, but it probably didn't help that I drove my son's Camaro for two days while doing this
The ride is a bit firmer than with the Fox shocks, but it is sucking up bumps much better than before.
Originally I ordered the Pro-Truck front and rear set without springs. I had intended on using the factory springs but I discovered that the diameter of the Fox and Eibachs differed and I could not use the spring perches from the Fox units. Shock Surplus was great about allowing me to swap out the bare fronts and pay the difference for the coilovers.
Rear shocks were easy as expected.
After reading multiple horror stories about separated CV joints, I decided to go the route of dropping the inside lower control arm mounts.
- I marked the original lower control arm bolts (camber adjusters) in multiple locations, so that I could be reasonably close alignment-wise. You'll need to have an alignment done anyway.
- If you go this route, order at least one extra camber adjuster bolt and nut. I ended up having a set gall up on me and had to wait till Monday to get replacements. I had used a battery impact to remove them, and in hindsight I should have sprayed them with Liquid Wrench and used a ratchet with a cheater bar. Considering they are hot-dipped galvanized, this isn't uncommon.
Bolt: W720555-S439
Nut: W720216-S442
- Once the lower control arm is disconnected on the inner side, the shock is incredibly easy to remove, and you don't have to touch the axle nut, brakes, or worry about the CV joint.
- After the old shock was removed, I bolted the Eibach up.
- To get the lower control arm back in place, first I used a bottle jack to raise it into position where the arm to the rear of the truck could be bolted back. Do not tighten the nuts down until the truck is on the ground.
- I used a ratchet strap and attached it to the hole in the underside of the front arm of each control arm. I first ratcheted the arm back to where the hole was pulled inward enough, then used the bottle jack to lift it into place where the bolt could be inserted.
- Once the tire was back on and the truck lowered, I adjusted the lower control arm bolts to line back up to the witness marks I made earlier. These are to be torqued to 195ft/lbs, so unless you have a big torque wrench and a lot of leverage, just get as tight as you can. (Again, will need to align anyway).
The truck had a 1/2" difference between the driver and passenger side originally. The Eibachs took the truck up almost 1", so I adjusted both to where I was at 1" lift matching on both sides. To adjust, you jack the truck up, spray the threads with silicone spray, and turn clockwise (if looking from the bottom) to raise.
I took it for an alignment and surprisingly everything was within tolerance except for driver side toe and steering angle being slightly out. They adjusted everything closer and torqued down the camber bolts properly. Although the alignment shop was nervous about adaptive cruise and lane assist, both were fine afterwards.
Headlights were pointed way up, so they had to be adjusted down.
The truck feels quite a bit different now. It feels taller to me, but it probably didn't help that I drove my son's Camaro for two days while doing this
The ride is a bit firmer than with the Fox shocks, but it is sucking up bumps much better than before.Sponsored
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