Dual Battery Setups

[Glocker]

I'm curious if anybody has a dual battery setup in their Ranger for camping/overlanding. I'm going back and forth over a dual fuel 2000w/1800w generator/invertor or a dual battery setup with possible solar back-up charging. I'm also wondering what the stock alternator can handle as far as powering the truck AND a secondary battery. Where can the battery be mounted? Total cost?

On one hand, dual battery setups have the legs to go the distance in most cases while camping and are very quiet. But the cost can add up for the equipment.

But on the other hand, I may want to be powering a portable 'fridge and small AC over night, and I can get into a dual fuel generator for under $500. But it's 60 dbs. at 23 ft.. That may be too noisy for camping!

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[slowmachine]

There is ample precedent for mounting batteries under the body in many medium and heavy duty vehicles. Locating extra batteries toward the rear can help with weight distribution too. For older vehicles, a simple relay can work for separating the batteries while the engine is off. I don’t know the effects on the existing battery management system.

Usually, everything is simplified by using a single battery chemistry (flooded, AGM, etc.) for all batteries. There are only a handful of battery manufacturers, who make all of the battery brand that you see advertised, so don’t get hung up on some premium brand that only costs more to cover their advertising budget.

Both Honda and Yamaha make top-notch generators that are very quiet. I have experience with Honda, and wouldn’t hesitate to recommend them. I have heard good things about the smaller Champion generators as a budget-friendly alternative, but never seen one in person.

 

[Glocker]

There is ample precedent for mounting batteries under the body in many medium and heavy duty vehicles. Locating extra batteries toward the rear can help with weight distribution too. For older vehicles, a simple relay can work for separating the batteries while the engine is off. I don’t know the effects on the existing battery management system.

Usually, everything is simplified by using a single battery chemistry (flooded, AGM, etc.) for all batteries. There are only a handful of battery manufacturers, who make all of the battery brand that you see advertised, so don’t get hung up on some premium brand that only costs more to cover their advertising budget.

Both Honda and Yamaha make top-notch generators that are very quiet. I have experience with Honda, and wouldn’t hesitate to recommend them. I have heard good things about the smaller Champion generators as a budget-friendly alternative, but never seen one in person.

I'm really leaning towards the generator right now because of cost and space in the truck. The generator can be loaded in and out as I need it, and stay in the garage when not in use. On top of that, if we have a power outage I can set it up quickly and run the router and my wife's work laptop without issues so she can work from home (COVID protocols for her right now have her out of the office since March).

On the down side, at the price point I'm shopping, I'm not getting into a a really quiet Honda generator. The 60 dbs wont bother me on a camp site, as I sleep with a noise machine anyways and the genny will put me to sleep. But, will it piss someone off that I'm traveling with?

 

[slowmachine]

I'm really leaning towards the generator right now because of cost and space in the truck. The generator can be loaded in and out as I need it, and stay in the garage when not in use. On top of that, if we have a power outage I can set it up quickly and run the router and my wife's work laptop without issues so she can work from home (COVID protocols for her right now have her out of the office since March).

On the down side, at the price point I'm shopping, I'm not getting into a a really quiet Honda generator. The 60 dbs wont bother me on a camp site, as I sleep with a noise machine anyways and the genny will put me to sleep. But, will it piss someone off that I'm traveling with?

Not to stray too far from the Ranger topic, but I power our entire home network, wired and wireless, from a UPS. That includes the Optical Network Terminal (ONT) that connects our fiber internet connection to the house. The wife’s work requires VPN, so cellular data is insufficient. No generator required for the first few hours, but we also have a 7KW Honda to run refrigerators, heating, and private well water.

Noisy generators are a dud in crowded campgrounds. If they are allowed at all, it’s common to have mandated quiet hours at night. If you need nighttime AC, you’ll want a campground with electric hookups. Refrigeration is easier. There are plenty of 12V refrigerators that will run all night on an auxiliary battery, and bags of ice cubes are cheap.

 

[HoosierT]

I considered dual batteries but ended up DIYing a 190ah lithium portable battery with built in inverter. It’ll run my fridge, camp lights, etc for days. There are two powerpole connections on the side as well if I need a higher amerage 12v connection.

 

[OFC Ranger]

I considered dual batteries but ended up DIYing a 190ah lithium portable battery with built in inverter. It’ll run my fridge, camp lights, etc for days. There are two powerpole connections on the side as well if I need a higher amerage 12v connection.

How you gonna post that but no details.

Boooo
this man!

 

[Glocker]

How you gonna post that but no details.

Boooo
this man!

Right!!! I was thinking the same thing! LOL

 

[HoosierT]

How you gonna post that but no details.

Boooo
this man!

Haha what do you want to know?! I'm using 4 190ah prismatic lifepo4 cells, a 120a bluetooth BMS with low temp disconnect, the inverter is a 1500w continuous Pure Sine Wave, two 45a powerpole connections. I took the case off the inverter and soldered longer leads to the AC outlets. You'll see a lot of people just buy desk grommets then plug that into the side of the inverter with 12' of cable filling up the box. I didn't want all that so I just unclipped the outlets from the inverter and 3d printed the plate that holds them on the lid. I also didn't like the rounded edges inside the box so I found the cad drawing on their web site, inverter it and printed a sleeve for the inside to give me square corners. The awesome part about this Nanuk 933 box is it has holes around the top rim that is used to hold an acrylic panel they sell. I just used those holes to secure my sleeve in place. I also replaced the inverter fans with two 120mm quiet case fans and those through-vent on the sides of the box. The silver switch runs through a relay and turns on all four 12v supplies (2x dual USB and 2x cig sockets). The inverter I chose is a spartan power mostly because I loved their remote switch/display. It gives me wattage in real time. I can also see wattage and amperage in real time through the app for the BMS as well as turn off all connections. I charge it with a 15a charger through the APP connections. I also plan to wire a DC to DC charger in my truck so I can charge it back up anytime I'm driving. That's pretty much it. I just strap it down in the bed when I use it. Pull it out when in camp.

 

[HoosierT]

The inside pic is before it was totally done, it's much cleaner in its finished state. I'll get an updated pic when I get home. Had a Goal Zero yeti lithium 400 but it wasn't cutting it. Sold it and built this beast. Roughly $900 all in.

Happy now?! lol

 

[Glocker]

Well, I'm thinking now about just buying a Goal Zero battery pack type setup, for now. I was really looking for something economical and was considering that generator, but what I'm getting from the overlanding crowd on Facebook is they would be pretty unhappy with a genny going in the background. I may lookk at that generator later and added it to the kit for my planned trip out to Utah. But I think for now, for around Georgia and just simple overnight overlanding trips, I will look at a battery unit.

 

[Glocker]

The inside pic is before it was totally done, it's much cleaner in its finished state. I'll get an updated pic when I get home. Had a Goal Zero yeti lithium 400 but it wasn't cutting it. Sold it and built this beast. Roughly $900 all in.

Happy now?! lol

WOW!!! Pretty cool. A lot beyond what I'd feel comfortable with. And I was actually thinking about a used Goal Zero Yeti 400! Replacement battery from Goal Zero is only $100.

How was the yeti not cutting it. I'll be wanting to power a camp fridge/freezer, fan, lime lights, and charge my phone overnight. Would charge from AC or DC while driving during the days.

 

[HoosierT]

WOW!!! Pretty cool. A lot beyond what I'd feel comfortable with. And I was actually thinking about a used Goal Zero Yeti 400! Replacement battery from Goal Zero is only $100.

How was the yeti not cutting it. I'll be wanting to power a camp fridge/freezer, fan, lime lights, and charge my phone overnight. Would charge from AC or DC while driving during the days.

It'll work just fine for you but you'll have to run your fridge in low voltage mode. I'm just picky and wanted to do it my own way. Not sure how much you know about batteries but Goal Zero uses Lithium Ion cells in a 3s (3 in series) configuration which gives you a voltage range of 9-12.6v for your discharge curve and a nominal voltage of 10.8v for the array. This means that 12v accessories are technically underpowered for 83% of that cycle and fridges can be finicky with that and will for sure require you to buy one that has a low voltage operating mode.

I built mine with lifepo4 as they have a nominal voltage of 3.3v (per cell) instead of 3.6v for li ion. Lifepo4 is much better suited for 12v applications because of this. In my 4s configuration, my nominal voltage is 13.2v and my voltage range is 11.2v-14.6v. At the top end, 14.6v is safe for any 12v accessory, you'll see that on the label. Hope this helps.

 

[Glocker]

It'll work just fine for you but you'll have to run your fridge in low voltage mode. I'm just picky and wanted to do it my own way. Not sure how much you know about batteries but Goal Zero uses Lithium Ion cells in a 3s (3 in series) configuration which gives you a voltage range of 9-12.6v for your discharge curve and a nominal voltage of 10.8v for the array. This means that 12v accessories are technically underpowered for 83% of that cycle and fridges can be finicky with that and will for sure require you to buy one that has a low voltage operating mode.

I built mine with lifepo4 as they have a nominal voltage of 3.3v (per cell) instead of 3.6v for li ion. Lifepo4 is much better suited for 12v applications because of this. In my 4s configuration, my nominal voltage is 13.2v and my voltage range is 11.2v-14.6v. At the top end, 14.6v is safe for any 12v accessory, you'll see that on the label. Hope this helps.

Wow! I only have a grasp on a small percentage of what you just passed on there.

So this is the fridge unit I'm considering:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CG4Q1Y...olid=28QT9V2R4GUR8&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

What is the most economical way of powering that through the night, with a fan going in my tent and my phone charging? ? I'm asking because I just don't want to spend a lot of money. And if I buy something that doesn't cut it, I will be throwing away money. And well, I have no clue. LOL

Thank you!

 

[HoosierT]

Wow! I only have a grasp on a small percentage of what you just passed on there.

So this is the fridge unit I'm considering:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CG4Q1Y...olid=28QT9V2R4GUR8&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

What is the most economical way of powering that through the night, with a fan going in my tent and my phone charging? ? I'm asking because I just don't want to spend a lot of money. And if I buy something that doesn't cut it, I will be throwing away money. And well, I have no clue. LOL

Thank you!

Is your fan 12v or 120v? If it's 12v, here's what I would do. Most of the time, you can get by without really needing 120v (aka a power inverter) when on the trail. If you can swing that, I would recommend just buying a nice deep cycle car battery and putting it in battery box. You Could add a solar charge controller to it later by just bolting it to the top. That battery should last you a day or two then just throw it on a trickle charger when you get home.
On the subject of fans, one of the best things I've invested in if a work fan that uses the same batteries as my power tools, in my case dewalt. I have a lot of batteries laying around so I just charge them all up and they will power the dewalt fan all weekend no problem. You might consider that as a long term solution for your camp fan. Basically every brand of power tools offers one.

 

[Glocker]

Is your fan 12v or 120v?

I don't have anything yet. I was going just going to try to find something to hang up in the tent. I imagine I could go either way with it.

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