db_tanker
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- #1
Okay so recently I was informed by the dealer during an oil change that the crankshaft/harmonic balancer pulley seal was leaking. I just happened to find THIS THREAD IN HERE and inquired about what all was needed. After a few responses I went to the factory service manual and started cross-referencing what all I would need.
I managed to find two kits off Amazon that gave me the cam holding tools (303-1686) , crankshaft position sensor alignment block (303-1521) , the crank damper holding tool (303-1689) and timing peg (303-507). I also got the seal remover but had to go to ebay for that and it was a pricey thing but it is a genuine Ford "Rotunda" tool.
Also make sure you have the right tools to bust off the fan clutch! That will need to get out of the way for sure.
In my previous experience of turning wrenches for money when I hit 15 and not long after I got out of the army and then through working on various downhole tools and pipeline inspection equipment I have to say this was one of the more scarier jobs I've ever done. Why Ford did this to save a few process steps on the CNC baffles me. I'm sure someone will chime in and claim that it saves thousands of dollars/man-hours...I'm sure it does. But me having to do all these separate processes to just get at one seal that was perished...jeez. Anyway...back to the work.
My own opinion is that the worst part was getting the cam position sensors popped out. I was terrified that I would break them since they were plastic but they came out with little issue. Getting to the drivers side sensor was the pain since you have the HP fuel pump there and getting back there with T45 torx can be a bit of an issue. I suggest either a good swivel head rachet or a Wera tool set (I have the bicycle set 3 from Wera and it has a 15mm 1/4" drive socket and a 2.5mm ball end hex...awesome set and really good quality...cheaper on amazon vs REI).
Dropping the AC compressor isn't too bad or getting the mounting pad off the side of the block. The crankshaft block plug came out with no issues. I didn't have a seal to replace it but it was in good shape and I put some Dow DC111 on it and the o-rings for the cam sensors to make sure the seals were lubed up/treated. It works better than the dielectric and we use it on downhole o-rings and they don't blow out. I think its called Molykote now or something. I've had the tube i'm using for about 20 years and its still 3/4 full.
The seal puller is a trick little dude...I think better than the old twisted hook that I had in my tool box and I'm kind of glad I got it. One thing I didn't get and here comes the wisdom...I didn't get the seal installer. :| I just went with what I knew and found a socket that fit TOO well on the seal...and drove it in cockeyed...SO...had to use the seal remover AGAIN...and had to hunt up another seal. After that debacle I took a piece of 2x4 and drilled a hole into it that would accept the crank snout but bottom against the shoulder there on the timing cover. Second try was a success.
Next piece of info/wisdom...for some reason our trucks don't have a crankshaft balancer bolt available at the local parts houses. SO...I backtracked. I found the Ford factory PN - 1S7Z-6A340-AA - and back tracked it to the Doorman # 926-885. I was a bit scared and took my old crank bolt and side-by-side they are a carbon copy of each other.
Last part...make sure you got a good buddy nearby as they will need to help out with holding the hub in place while you grunt on that dang thing...unless you can manage to strap down the breaker bar to the hub holder and you can get another breaker bar on the bolt to go 90 degrees...just trust me...get some help lol. That bolt is a torque to yield (TTY) and you get it to 74 ft lbs and then have to go another 90 degrees...keep that in mind.
Best feeling though was getting it 90% done (just the shroud and such left) and cranking it over with no CEL was awesome as I was worried about forgetting something or missing something or just Ford sliding one in on me that I didn't catch.
Finished it on Saturday and been driving it all over Houston and surrounding parts and she good.
I tried to upload and attach pics to this and the website is being finicky...probably my firewall here at the house.
Again...started it on Friday...finished on Saturday. The teardown was long since I was taking my time with each step. Once the tear down was done and I decided to stop screwing up seals the reassembly was a breeze.
Hope this helps someone out. Lemme know if you have any questions.
D
I managed to find two kits off Amazon that gave me the cam holding tools (303-1686) , crankshaft position sensor alignment block (303-1521) , the crank damper holding tool (303-1689) and timing peg (303-507). I also got the seal remover but had to go to ebay for that and it was a pricey thing but it is a genuine Ford "Rotunda" tool.
Also make sure you have the right tools to bust off the fan clutch! That will need to get out of the way for sure.
In my previous experience of turning wrenches for money when I hit 15 and not long after I got out of the army and then through working on various downhole tools and pipeline inspection equipment I have to say this was one of the more scarier jobs I've ever done. Why Ford did this to save a few process steps on the CNC baffles me. I'm sure someone will chime in and claim that it saves thousands of dollars/man-hours...I'm sure it does. But me having to do all these separate processes to just get at one seal that was perished...jeez. Anyway...back to the work.
My own opinion is that the worst part was getting the cam position sensors popped out. I was terrified that I would break them since they were plastic but they came out with little issue. Getting to the drivers side sensor was the pain since you have the HP fuel pump there and getting back there with T45 torx can be a bit of an issue. I suggest either a good swivel head rachet or a Wera tool set (I have the bicycle set 3 from Wera and it has a 15mm 1/4" drive socket and a 2.5mm ball end hex...awesome set and really good quality...cheaper on amazon vs REI).
Dropping the AC compressor isn't too bad or getting the mounting pad off the side of the block. The crankshaft block plug came out with no issues. I didn't have a seal to replace it but it was in good shape and I put some Dow DC111 on it and the o-rings for the cam sensors to make sure the seals were lubed up/treated. It works better than the dielectric and we use it on downhole o-rings and they don't blow out. I think its called Molykote now or something. I've had the tube i'm using for about 20 years and its still 3/4 full.
The seal puller is a trick little dude...I think better than the old twisted hook that I had in my tool box and I'm kind of glad I got it. One thing I didn't get and here comes the wisdom...I didn't get the seal installer. :| I just went with what I knew and found a socket that fit TOO well on the seal...and drove it in cockeyed...SO...had to use the seal remover AGAIN...and had to hunt up another seal. After that debacle I took a piece of 2x4 and drilled a hole into it that would accept the crank snout but bottom against the shoulder there on the timing cover. Second try was a success.
Next piece of info/wisdom...for some reason our trucks don't have a crankshaft balancer bolt available at the local parts houses. SO...I backtracked. I found the Ford factory PN - 1S7Z-6A340-AA - and back tracked it to the Doorman # 926-885. I was a bit scared and took my old crank bolt and side-by-side they are a carbon copy of each other.
Last part...make sure you got a good buddy nearby as they will need to help out with holding the hub in place while you grunt on that dang thing...unless you can manage to strap down the breaker bar to the hub holder and you can get another breaker bar on the bolt to go 90 degrees...just trust me...get some help lol. That bolt is a torque to yield (TTY) and you get it to 74 ft lbs and then have to go another 90 degrees...keep that in mind.
Best feeling though was getting it 90% done (just the shroud and such left) and cranking it over with no CEL was awesome as I was worried about forgetting something or missing something or just Ford sliding one in on me that I didn't catch.
Finished it on Saturday and been driving it all over Houston and surrounding parts and she good.
I tried to upload and attach pics to this and the website is being finicky...probably my firewall here at the house.
Again...started it on Friday...finished on Saturday. The teardown was long since I was taking my time with each step. Once the tear down was done and I decided to stop screwing up seals the reassembly was a breeze.
Hope this helps someone out. Lemme know if you have any questions.
D
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