Charging System, Service Now

[Motorpsychology]

I would still get a float charger a.k.a. a smart charger. I have one for my motorcycle which I use off riding season or when I expect to not be riding for 2-3 weeks. The original battery lasted 7 years/45K mi and was a conventional lead acid type and I replaced it with an AGM.

NOTE: if you have an AGM battery, they require an AGM float charger Most all battery tenders nowadays have circuitry that recognizes whether it is an old school L-A or an AGM. Lithium chargers and tenders need a specific type of charger. Using anything else could result in a fire.

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[RangerBill]

At first, I would get the full error in the notification tray (see first pic in my original post) and that would clear to a little red battery icon that would eventually disappear.

Your charging system is in need of attention. The battery symbol indicates that the battery is not being charged. Have your alternator tested. The battery symbol should never come on with the engine running.

 

[airline tech]

Yes, I would check the Alternator and charging system - Loaded with headlights (On) as the system has a Fail Safe - charging voltage of 13.5 volts, if you are not seeing more than 13.5 volts you have an issue. The intermittent - (Message & Light) reflect this error.
Now with the trucks charging system -this can be misleading 13.5 volts, but the main factor is you should see the charging voltage jump (up) when the headlights are turned on (under a load)
Without a scan tool - the increase should be about .5 volts
With a scan tool - you can command the Desired Gen Voltage up to 14.0 volts and verify the alternator can do it.

Have you scanned for codes? you should have a code stored, but it may clear itself, so it is best to scan with that light on.

Basically, what I think is happening is that when the PCM sets a Desired Voltage above 13.5 Volts, the alternator cannot produce it - the light & message are triggered when the battery voltage is 1.5 volts lower than the desired (for 30 seconds) timed event or the alternator is producing it, but the battery is not receiving it.
Loose connections, BMS sensor failure (not seeing it), a weakened 225-Amp Fuse partially blown and only allowing partial current flow back into the battery.
This appears to become a common issue and would be a great spot to check.
measure the voltage before & after the fuse (mega-fuse) right at the BMFL on top of the battery.
This is a slow blow fuse - and I have a feeling that for some reason this is partially burning part of the leg and causing the issue you have.
Quick & Easy check with a meter for confirmation, I have personally seen this happen.
Measuring different voltage on both sides of this fuse, my logic tells me that it is supposed to be fully blown and (zero) current flow, but what if the leg only partially melted. Then this would still allow some current flow as it did not fully melt, which is what was happening - same messages as you have

 

[Hyperguy]

Since the Ranger is out of warranty, has this charging issue and also the heat/cold only coming out of one side, I'm thinking that it's probably best for me to get something with less miles and a warranty.

After reading about the charging system and Ford's inability to pinpoint the issue, I'm not up for multiple trips back to the dealership (on my dime) to figure out what the problem is? As I recall, one user went back to the dealership multiple times and they couldn't find the problem. I'm not willing to chase that rabbit!

Also, some posts here suggest that the heat/cold issue necessitates removing the entire dash to replace an actuator. Dash rattles, squeaks and panels that don't line up like they did before it was taken apart is also a big NOPE for me.

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