Buffers/Polishers

[quangdog]

Thanks @LightningBlue and @pa-fatboy! Your advice is great. I also just ordered the Menzerna, and am planning to do the full detail next weekend.

Rinse, foam canon, 2 bucket wash. Dry with microfiber towels.
Clay bar entire truck surface.
Paint correction with Menzerna and DA polisher with appropriate pad(s)
Use ceramic prep (IPA in a misting bottle, microfiber towels) to completely clean entire paint surface once more.
Apply ceramic coating, being careful to follow manufacturer instructions. I plan to do 2 complete coats of ceramic.

Am I forgetting anything major?

I run a small DIY YouTube channel, and am planning to document the entire process, with high-quality before and after pictures and video for comparison for my channel. I'm really looking forward to seeing what kind of results a complete amateur like me can achieve.

Thanks again!

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[LightingBlue]

@LightingBlue - Thanks! I ordered the Menerza.

Hope you're happy with it! Application tip: that stuff must be shaken realllllllllllly well. The full 2 minutes of banging one out like you're back in high school! And once you start applying, it spreads super far. That stuff just keeps going and going and going to the point that only at just the right angle can you tell it's going on the paint, you'll think you're actually not laying down any product. If it's hazing up and you see it everywhere, you used too much!

Let it flash off for about 15-20 minutes after you complete the entire car.

This is an excellent opportunity to reach into your "Seattle Briefcase" and consult the detailing instructions you printed out at work and brought home to consult.

Once you're re-hydrated and back in fighting shape, you get to the buffing step. This stuff should be mostly optically clear to begin with, but it buffs to that high-gloss shine like you wouldn't believe! The key is SOFT pressure and a nice plush microfiber towel to bring out the full shine. You only have to "jewel" the top surface, you aren't trying to remove product.... SOFT PRESSURE!

 

[LightingBlue]

LIGHTNINGBLUE: I think you are my brother from a different mother when it comes to detailing! I am aligned with your comments. I also am a fan of Wolfgang products. I have just reordered what I needed to do a complete paint correction using Wolfgang product and some car pro mixed in their.

below is my Mustang after it had a ceramic coat applied to it in Oct 2016. It’s relation to our trucks is the paint. It is the Ford Magnetic Grey. I told the sales guy to not let the dealership prep the car for me at all. I would take care of it. I did the paint correction, but then handed it off to a professional detailer that was certified to install Modesta ceramic finishes. IMHO, Modesta is the best ceramic out there, you and I can not buy it, it has to be installed buy a certified detailer on their product. That detailer has become my friend now and has given me great advice over the last 4 years. Each time it gets washed, it gets another spray coating of carpro reload to freshen up the ceramic coating. My Mustang still looks like this and the coating is still working after 4 years. It has a 10 year life span according to the manufacturer,

Brothers in spending too much on car care products! HA HA HA!!!

Their total swirl remover is pretty good, but I started with the Menzerna products about 8 years ago and to date they are the best home-use compounds i've ever used. They break down predictably and leave the finest finish i've gotten away from the shop I grew up working in. Back then (mid '90's) 3M Perfect It III range was the hot ticket. My best buddy's dad owned a restoration and detail shop so I put in time and learned the trade. He restored American classics/muscle, and detailed exotics. Lets just say that at 18 years old detailing Saleen's, Ferrari's and the like was nail biting. Took 3 years of apprenticing before he would let me tackle the "walk-ins" and work my way up to the exotics.

I think there is a MASSIVE misconception when it comes to ceramic coatings. People think they will get better results than a high quality carnuba wax. They wont. It will have very high gloss, yes. But almost zero depth, zero warmth and feel a little "off". It will protect 5,000% better than carnuba, but it will NOT make your car look like it was boutique detailed. And for 95% of cars out there, that's good enough! I wouldn't know what to do if I didn't have cars to keep working on and detailing... Ceramic coating isn't for me, even with the daily driver(s).

As always, people have an idea of their intended outcome and what they want their car to look like. So it's interesting to hear people rave about ceramic coatings and their final result. They are glossy and durable and perfect for the daily drivers. But you won't see any concourse vehicles or show cars (Excluding the "mod" shows where the most mods nets you the win) using ceramic coatings.... For all 300' that they are pushed around per year

 

[quangdog]

I think there is a MASSIVE misconception when it comes to ceramic coatings. People think they will get better results than a high quality carnuba wax. They wont. It will have very high gloss, yes. But almost zero depth, zero warmth and feel a little "off". It will protect 5,000% better than carnuba, but it will NOT make your car look like it was boutique detailed.

This is exactly why I am interested in ceramic over wax: Protection level. Shiny is cool, but I'm not looking to produce a concourse show car here... this is my daily driver truck, and I just want to protect the paint job and make it as easy to keep clean as possible.

 

[mtsoxfan]

Ok, you guys are passionate about how great you can get your truck, I'm envious of that. I just don't have the time to do all that, and frankly, not interested in learning the 8 step method. Trust me, I'm not knocking, I can appreciate a fine looking vehicle, could stare at it for a long time. Shines so deep, I can see my past....
My wife won't go to car shows with me anymore because she doesn't get it.
That said, I used to use rubbing compound to remove road film, not knowing the right term, then wax. I don't want the workout by hand anymore so I'm looking into a buffer. Is the PC still a good choice for me? What cleaner and wax would you recommend for my scenario? I'm sure there are others that might want the info as well.

 

[pa-fatboy]

Am I forgetting anything major?

Looks like you have it all covered. One more step I do these days. I don’t really like the process of claying. I certainly like what it does, but I have physical limitations and I need to be smart with my energy. Claying takes a lot out of me. I found these Clay Eraser Discs on the chemical guys website. I bought multiples of all the various grades. You put them on your buffer and spray the clay lubricant just like you were claying. They work extremely well and it’s a much easier and faster way to complete the hand claying process.

For microfiber towels, something to think about is getting edgeless towels, you can be taking 2 steps forward and half a step backwards if the edge of the microfiber towel drags against your paint surface when wiping down the truck. These edgeless Microfiber Towels were suggested to me by a professional detailer. I’m slowly replacing my stock with these.

I’ll look forward to your YouTube video. Good Luck!

 

[pa-fatboy]

I think there is a MASSIVE misconception when it comes to ceramic coatings. People think they will get better results than a high quality carnuba wax. They wont. It will have very high gloss, yes. But almost zero depth, zero warmth and feel a little "off". It will protect 5,000% better than carnuba, but it will NOT make your car look like it was boutique detailed. And for 95% of cars out there, that's good enough! I wouldn't know what to do if I didn't have cars to keep working on and detailing... Ceramic coating isn't for me, even with the daily driver(s).

As always, people have an idea of their intended outcome and what they want their car to look like. So it's interesting to hear people rave about ceramic coatings and their final result. They are glossy and durable and perfect for the daily drivers. But you won't see any concourse vehicles or show cars (Excluding the "mod" shows where the most mods nets you the win) using ceramic coatings.... For all 300' that they are pushed around per year

Here is where we differ. I won’t rant and rave, but imho, ceramic coating is a massive step forward over wax. I’m not talking about ceramic coatings you can buy off the shelf at pep boys. I think Modesta is a leader and has the client base of show cars, exotics and people who value and fret over the finish of their cars. My car with ceramic coating is also sooooo easy to keep looking great. Nearly nothing sticks to it. A good rain will make it look freshly detailed. As for upkeep, with each wash, you just spray on carpro reload and wipe off. I’m on year 5 of a 10 year life expectancy. When I take my car to car shows, it blows away most of the cars around it as far a gloss, depth and warmth. I do think as it gets older, it will really sparkle compared to its brothers. The rims were coated as well. Brake dust would not stick the them. Unfortunately, I had an argument with a curb as high speed and I needed to replace the OEM rims. I bought another set of OEM rims from a guy on mustang6g.com while I was waiting for the tow truck. lol!

ceramic coating manufactures do claim how hard the finish is and how durable is it against heat. I don’t know about that. my personal experience is that waxed or coated paint will chip at the same rate and depth from highway rocks kicked up or blown off trucks.

I also like waxing and applying sealants to my cars and that won’t stop for me. I like using my tools and spending time in the garage testing new products. Some of them smell so good when applying them too. I understand the love for the legacy car care and the processes that go with detailing. A great wax job will last around 6 months or so before needing it done again. The ceramic will, or should anyway, give you much longer paint protection. The good thing about ceramics is the UV protection they provide. One of the best sealants I found to use after waxing is Jet Seal From Chemical Guys. It really does do an excellent job, is durable, and looks nice. I apply it to my cars in October / November to get me through the winter and that nasty salt solution they put down on the roads. It looks to me that it does last until end of March / April when I can do another full detail. Throughout the winter it’s waterless car washes. Occasionally, I will take them through a local car wash that has a nice undercarriage wash.

People do have their favorites and opinion for sure. It would be boring if we all agreed all the time.

 

[pa-fatboy]

Ok, you guys are passionate about how great you can get your truck, I'm envious of that. I just don't have the time to do all that, and frankly, not interested in learning the 8 step method. Trust me, I'm not knocking, I can appreciate a fine looking vehicle, could stare at it for a long time. Shines so deep, I can see my past....
My wife won't go to car shows with me anymore because she doesn't get it.
That said, I used to use rubbing compound to remove road film, not knowing the right term, then wax. I don't want the workout by hand anymore so I'm looking into a buffer. Is the PC still a good choice for me? What cleaner and wax would you recommend for my scenario? I'm sure there are others that might want the info as well.

hello mtsoxfan!
you might want to get a nice car wash soap that will clean your truck and apply a thin layer of wax in the process. This might help you between individual steps to clean road grime and then wax. Something like this Wolfgang Car Wash Soap might do what you need between your full details. I understand where you are on this. I think 95% of the people wouldn’t notice a truck with an 8 step detail process freshly done versus a truck fresh from the car wash. That’s okay. I would bet you do other things to decompress and relax from the daily grind!

I have not tried a rubbing compound to remove road grime. I am a fan of the brands Wolfgang and CarPro. I don’t think you could go wrong with either company for the product you are looking for. I did do a quick search for you. I found this road grime kit that looks decent. You could of course do a search for ‘bug and tar’ remover and read about the different products that come up. This kit is good if you have no other supplies at home.

I use a PC buffer for the majority of the time. There is another thread in this forum talking about buffer recommendations. Check it out.

A cleaner/wax is just about the heart of the industry. I have my favorite brands that I mentioned. I don’t think you would go wrong with selecting one that looks good to you from your local auto parts store. Take a look at this page forAll-in-one cleaner/wax/sealants. There is also a video on this page to watch.

good Luck!

 

[mtsoxfan]

hello mtsoxfan!
you might want to get a nice car wash soap that will clean your truck and apply a thin layer of wax in the process. This might help you between individual steps to clean road grime and then wax. Something like this Wolfgang Car Wash Soap might do what you need between your full details. I understand where you are on this. I think 95% of the people wouldn’t notice a truck with an 8 step detail process freshly done versus a truck fresh from the car wash. That’s okay. I would bet you do other things to decompress and relax from the daily grind!

I have not tried a rubbing compound to remove road grime. I am a fan of the brands Wolfgang and CarPro. I don’t think you old go wrong will either company for the product you are looking for. I did do a quick search for you. I found this road grime kit that looks decent. You could of course do a search for ‘bug and tar’ remover and read about the different products that come up. This kit is good if you have no other supplies at home.

I use a PC buffer for the majority of the time. There is another thread in this forum talking about buffer recommendations. Check it out.

A cleaner/wax is just about the heart of the industry. I have my favorite brands that I mentioned. I don’t think you would go wrong with selecting one that looks good to you from your local auto parts store. Take a look at this page forAll-in-one cleaner/wax/sealants. There is also a video on this page to watch.

good Luck!

Thanks for the info. yeah, I'm very particular about things, as many on here are. Cleaning/waxing etc. is about the most I want to go in on. If I went deeper, I'd never be happy.
On a relaxing note, I do brew beer. 11 years now, process down pat for years, and brewing high quality stuff. That I get lost in for 5 hours or so...

 

[treimche]

This may be a dumb question, but I have always wondered. In order to reduce or eliminate orange peel in the OEM paint, does it need to be wet sanded then cut and polished? Or can a guy just start with a wool pad, move to a finer pad, and then a finishing pad?

 

[LightingBlue]

This may be a dumb question, but I have always wondered. In order to reduce or eliminate orange peel in the OEM paint, does it need to be wet sanded then cut and polished? Or can a guy just start with a wool pad, move to a finer pad, and then a finishing pad?

Wet sanding is a tried and true method of smoothing paint. After wet sanding you will have to do a cut and polish. It's time intensive but has delivered quality results to people for decades. Of course, taking sandpaper to your car has the potential to damage your paint beyond repair, especially along creases, curves and pinches in the metal where paint can be thinner.

Generally a thin foam pad, proper rubbing compounds and direct drive orbital will reduce orange peel quite fast. This is a professional level approach and absolutely has the ability to cut your paint down to base coat, primer or metal.

They also make denim pads specifically for this that you will also have to use a compound with. These are also used with a direct drive (rotary polisher) and also have the ability to screw things up if you aren't careful. This is a huge time saver overall and i've been practicing with this for a while now to get comfortable with it before going over my personal cars with

Carpro Denim Pads

Carpro Velvet Pads

Edit: They make a variety of sanding discs to cut your time down while sanding, but the risk is not removed at all.

Meguires professional sanding discs

 

[Clump]

I finally dipped my toe in the machine polishing pond yesterday. I was conservative and only used the Menerza polish. First on a polishing pad, then moved to a cut pad to get a little more out of it, then a finish pad.

I had never used a polisher before, so figured I'd rather do it again than go overboard and mess up my paint. I just did the hood. It came out great, but didn't have enough cut to get the dealer installed scratches out.

Now I have some confidence and will try something more aggressive next time.

Thanks for the tips!

 

[24dRanger]

I hate to attempt CPR on an old thread, yet I'm not a fan of creating duplicates either. I have bone spurs in both shoulders so I'd like to protect my shiny new black finish but not suffer for a week afterwards. I've never owned or used a polisher and the options are dizzying. I get it rarely is worth it to buy cheap stuff but unless you are making money with tools, it rarely makes sense to buy premium stuff either.

What is the difference between the round polisher with side handles and the ones that look like an angle grinder? Is it just that one is easier to control or provides more comfort? Am I correct in assuming you just use them to apply polishes and/or wax ... but hand buff each off? The ceramics all seem to have their own applicators so I'm guessing that is all by hand.

 

[JaysOnTheEDGE]

I cant detail anymore like I used to when I was in my 20s lol the pain for a week afterwards is killer now. I did both cars by hand last week., still hurting. ? I need to compound and polish the ' 11 Jetta but I'm breaking out the PC 7424XP for that

 

[Ranger8729]

I hate to attempt CPR on an old thread, yet I'm not a fan of creating duplicates either. I have bone spurs in both shoulders so I'd like to protect my shiny new black finish but not suffer for a week afterwards. I've never owned or used a polisher and the options are dizzying. I get it rarely is worth it to buy cheap stuff but unless you are making money with tools, it rarely makes sense to buy premium stuff either.

What is the difference between the round polisher with side handles and the ones that look like an angle grinder? Is it just that one is easier to control or provides more comfort? Am I correct in assuming you just use them to apply polishes and/or wax ... but hand buff each off? The ceramics all seem to have their own applicators so I'm guessing that is all by hand.

The round polisher with side handles is more than likely a rotary polisher. A huge learning curve and very unforgiving if you mess up.

An angle grinder style is usually going to be the dual action polisher you hear about. Easy to control and a much shorter learning curve.

I use a chemical guys TorqX as my weapon. Cheap and works fine with their and lake country pads. I did the 87 over 3 days with it, and I feel fine. But I'm in my 30s with no health issues. You'd probably want to have a nicer unit to keep the vibration injuries to a minimum. Cost goes up with comfort.

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