Brake Booster issue

[Porpoise Hork]

Ah, gotcha. Thanks

Guess I could research full brake kits at some point and see what tickles my fancy and if it's worth investing in it.

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[Porpoise Hork]

Most likely pivot point are either missing a bushing or needs to be lubed. Possilby it's the booster as well.

You're correct sir. It's the pivot point grommet. At least mine was.

 

[RCMUSTANG]

You're correct sir. It's the pivot point grommet. At least mine was.

Glad I was able to help you pinpoint that.

 

[thewhiteranger]

Hi Chris,

The assembly plant does an evacuation and fill. The system is connected to the master cylinder and all the air in the system is evacuated. The the brake fluid is released into this system. If for some reason the system cannot be evacuated, the alarm sounds and the vehicle is flagged for the diagnosis and repair area. Once the vehicle is fixed, it is again evacuated of all air and then filled.

In the aftermarket, or at the dealer, you are spot on about the ABS valving trapping air. There is a process to cycle the ABS as I recall but in my experience it is a PITA to accomplish correctly.

It is my belief that there is a system imbalance between the brake system components that results in a lot of take up in the pedal to get the system to apply pressure...Since I was not part of any of the engineering on the vehicle, I have no idea of how the development was conducted. I can only say that there were several high level engineering evaluations of the Ranger prior to being given the okay for production and this did not bubble up as a must fix. I will digress into another back story.

Okay...Another back story... Again on the Aerostar. We were in a final before production drive between San Francisco and Reno. The executives driving started complaining about the binical cover over the instrument panel. It was a semi gloss. We all hated this, but the Marketing folks loved it...well until they also drove the vehicles and the glare off the cover made reading the speedometer and other gauges unreadable as the driver was blinded by the glare. In the post drive debrief this issue was flagged, the Marketing folks were sheepish and silent. Fortunately the Body Chief Engineer said he would take it on and make it like a camera case....We all applauded! Marketing exited...tail between their legs, once again. Aerostar went on to be a great asset to Ford Light Truck although it always ran second fiddle to the Chrysler Mini vans.

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

Phil --- we love the backstories and the insider stuff!

I agree the truck seems to stop fine but the pedal is softer than Id like any thoughts on turbo (vacuum vs boost) being part of the issue? this is my first turbo vehicle.

 

[silverflash]

HI Matt,

This is a characteristic rubber boot squeak...There are lubricants in aerosol cans that can be sprayed up into the dash panel area around the pedal plunge rod and will likely stop the noise...I doubt a new booster will fix this. Do not use WD40...it is not a lubricant...WD stands for water displacement....A silicon lube is not going to last. You need a polyethylene type to try to see if it is effective. Friend with a Chevy HHR...Steering sounded the same. I took my Ford Polyethylene spray and coated the rubber boot. Noise went away and has not returned several years later. May not fix the noise, but worth a try in my opinion.

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

Phil,

Can you give us some examples of a polyethylene type of lube that we can buy off the shelf? Googling seems to come up with teflon types and silicone types for polyethylene .

 

[silverflash]

sprayed the heck out of the pivot areas both sides , the rod and clip that goes thru the firewall. with plastic and rubber safe silicone. still have it. i guess i will bring this up friday when i go in for the truck losing all battery power out of the blue and then fine 5 minutes later.

 

[Trigganometry]

sprayed the heck out of the pivot areas both sides , the rod and clip that goes thru the firewall. with plastic and rubber safe silicone. still have it. i guess i will bring this up friday when i go in for the truck losing all battery power out of the blue and then fine 5 minutes later.

If you have Forscan you can ABS service bleed brake system. There is a thread on here about it. https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/fix-your-mushy-brakes.15581/

Solves sponge brakes and gives entire system the feel it should of had out of the factory. I was blown away after doing it. Very noticeable difference

 

[silverflash]

in one of these threads phil mentions spraying the rubber boot. it's not clear if he means the outside of it or the inside of it.

there seems to be some white plastic/hard cylinder thing that surrounds the rod that goes thru the firewall into the booster. the boot is covering that white hard cylinder. there seems to be no way to get lube up between the rod and the inner part of that cylinder as there is some sort of metal clip/washer there. that makes some clicking when i mess with it. as far as between the rubber boot and the white hard cylinder thing- i assume that's a bushing- can you safely spray silicone up in there? perhaps the rubber of the boot is rubbing against the bushing that surrounds the rod to make my noise? i don't want to do anything that ford will say caused an issue. i am going tomorrow morning for something else but would rather fix this myself if it's as easy as lubing between the boot and the white cylinder plastic thing it surrounds?

 

[silverflash]

in one of these threads phil mentions spraying the rubber boot. it's not clear if he means the outside of it or the inside of it.

there seems to be some white plastic/hard cylinder thing that surrounds the rod that goes thru the firewall into the booster. the boot is covering that white hard cylinder. there seems to be no way to get lube up between the rod and the inner part of that cylinder as there is some sort of metal clip/washer there. that makes some clicking when i mess with it. as far as between the rubber boot and the white hard cylinder thing- i assume that's a bushing- can you safely spray silicone up in there? perhaps the rubber of the boot is rubbing against the bushing that surrounds the rod to make my noise? i don't want to do anything that ford will say caused an issue. i am going tomorrow morning for something else but would rather fix this myself if it's as easy as lubing between the boot and the white cylinder plastic thing it surrounds?

interesting update:

went to the store over lunch. creaking like crazy. is cold out like in upper 30s. headed back and i noticed that pushing the pedal down from the left part of the pedal was quiet. from the normal right side was still creaking. did that a few times, alternated from right side of pedal to left and it went away. if i put my foot on the side of the pedal on the right and pulled a little to the left as i pushed it down it still did it some. finally that went away too. i did have the heat coming out the floor vents over the 30 mins of driving.

perhaps the heat from the heater caused something to expand that's metal and took the noise away? perhaps the lube got just warm enough to find it's way into all the nooks and crannies enough to quiet it?

will know later when i go fetch me a burger for dinner.

 

[silverflash]

first pass the dealer said the creak is normal. they all do that. they don't. i pushed back asked for them to lube everything. nothing for 3 hours.....

 

[silverflash]

first pass the dealer said the creak is normal. they all do that. they don't. i pushed back asked for them to lube everything. nothing for 3 hours.....

they reached out to ford engineers to see what the deal is.....will know more monday.

 

[silverflash]

https://wranglerjkforum.net/threads/how-to-fix-a-squeaky-brake-pedal-on-a-jeep-wrangler-jk.26059/

this is exactly what needs to happen for mine i think.

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