Battery Voltage is questionable - What is yours?

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Went into My FORD Dealer and Apparently the M-10300 Battery Charger is considered a FORD Racing part. Really? A battery charger? Hmmm. So I am instead using my points to order a Genius 10A765A jump start box for $129 worth of points... Not a maint charger but to be used just in case I need a jump that I can keep in my vehicle.. :^) WTH need to spend those points somewhere...
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-Ul...A765&qid=1588709136&s=automotive&sr=1-1-fkmr0
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I always thought when running battery voltage should be close to 14v but without engine running anything in the 12v is normal?
 

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I always went with the resting voltage should be in the 12.4-.6 range. At 12v thats pretty low.
 
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Exactly what I thought the 12.4 - 12.8 is expected to be fully charged. Less is Less. 12.1 is 50% but apparently it has something to do with the stop/start system that I am unfamiliar with.
 

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The BMS keeps the battery at a steady 12.9-13.5 on my truck most of the days. When I run the air compressor at idle it will start charging to 14.5 until its satisfied then it settles in at 12-13 again.
 


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i just installed a voltmeter and for the first time have been seeing my driving voltages off the alternator.

when i started this trip it was running 14.6 for an hour. then 14.5 for a bit. then dropped to 13.2

doesn’t change with turning accessories on or off.

it’s 12.6 w the car off

i checked with my real voltmeter. it correlates.

seems low. any ideas? car works fine

Update after a few hundred miles:
I suspect it is some mysterious battery charging thing that is intentional. It sometimes goes back up to 14.6 for a while and then goes back down. The battery voltage with engine off is always normal and charged and there is no sign of any issues.
 
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I also installed a voltmeter (replaced one of the 12v power port)

At startup (for a few seconds, but less than a minute) it will
blink and read 15.6 volts.

Then after that, with engine running it shows between 13.8 to 14.8 v
(driving around and depending on auxliary lights/12v accessories I have on)

When I shut off the engine, it reads between 12.6-12.8 volts.

I’m pretty sure the alternator is working as it should, and this little Voltmeter lets me keep an eye on the battery.

A1336F22-B49E-4D32-A1BE-E27F50426871.jpeg


919D2CAD-66D2-40F7-AD2B-84622C8275C4.jpeg
 
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I also installed a voltmeter (replaced one of the 12v power port)

At startup (for a few seconds, but less than a minute) it will
blink and read 15.6 volts.

Then after that, with engine running it shows between 13.8 to 14.8 v
(driving around and depending on auxliary lights/12v accessories I have on)

When I shut off the engine, it reads between 12.6-12.8 volts.

I’m pretty sure the alternator is working as it should, and this little Voltmeter lets me keep an eye on the battery.

A1336F22-B49E-4D32-A1BE-E27F50426871.jpeg


919D2CAD-66D2-40F7-AD2B-84622C8275C4.jpeg
That looks great.. Where did you get it from? Amazon? Brand? Thanks.
 

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charwest

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KnightRanger

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Thanks for the heads up. Definitely getting one. Was installation easy?
It was not hard, but I suggest using automotive trim removal tool
and carefully pry the side panels to acces the 2 screws on the side.
(similar to charwest link above)

I did have to cut the wire from the original 12volt port, and used wire stripper and crimper to add spade connectors then heatshrinked for the voltmeter connection.


You can also watch YT for LightForce switch fascia install:


86B33C14-2B5A-4D84-B02D-988F17E596AB.jpeg


9944BF1E-62CD-4290-9EB1-E11F9F8D8BFB.jpeg


147C35C6-913C-46BF-98FE-8A9C6D78E210.jpeg


0AF81C26-68FB-4BD6-80F5-7392838C8C33.jpeg


446E42B7-D61C-4F1B-A38A-641429931F9E.jpeg


E210D843-BDCE-4E26-80F2-B7213ECB63A8.jpeg
 
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Hi Jay,

3/36 should be bumper to bumper and last time I looked the battery was between the bumpers, so should be covered. ;)

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
I agree they would 'probably' cover the battery...BUT that means more than likely I have been inconvenienced by it failing AWAY from my home where my charger & tools and spare vehicle [teen driver with my old truck]. I do yearly fall prep ant this year I load tested it and it failed, I plugged in the cig-lighter/power point tester both a amp meter that full-fields via led light red-yellow-green for both battery and alternator performance. constantly yellow/green to yellow/red unless I'm in WOT [wide open throttle]. So my OCD is in high gear; I'm a bit anxious about getting stuck outside my office during a cold northern IL winter an hour/40 miles from home. If that happens I'll be pissed as a hornet.
 

KnightRanger

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I agree they would 'probably' cover the battery...BUT that means more than likely I have been inconvenienced by it failing AWAY from my home where my charger & tools and spare vehicle [teen driver with my old truck]. I do yearly fall prep ant this year I load tested it and it failed, I plugged in the cig-lighter/power point tester both a amp meter that full-fields via led light red-yellow-green for both battery and alternator performance. constantly yellow/green to yellow/red unless I'm in WOT [wide open throttle]. So my OCD is in high gear; I'm a bit anxious about getting stuck outside my office during a cold northern IL winter an hour/40 miles from home. If that happens I'll be pissed as a hornet.
Something to consider...

I have teen drivers as well, and first thing I check with new cars/ trucks
Is the battery terminal connection. You’ll be surprised that they dont really tighten this from the dealership.

I had to tighten them on our brand new subaru and ranger and check again after a few hundred miles or so.

Like you, I also use multimeter/ voltmeter to check battery charging and condition.
If needed, I put in a battery tender and charge overnight.
(If that doesn’t help then I suspect other issues, e.g. wiring, alternator, bad battery, fuse, etc)
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