Back to the 2020 FX4 Salvage Rebuild

XionUAV

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Almost a full year. That's how long my Ranger was at the body shop for work that would have likely taken a competent shop no more than 2 months to complete. I thought the shop I took the thing to would be professional. I was wrong.

To recap, this Ranger had front driver damage. Needed a new front frame rail, radiator support, hood and fender. Also needed the battery tray and piece below that. I supplied all the parts. The aftermarket radiator support showed up with rust behind welded areas. It went back. The Ford sourced support was also a little rough but no rust at least.

The Ford sourced hood showed up damaged because it wasn't packed with adequate foam in the box. Even the delivery guy told me to open it up before he left so he could document expected damage. That's how often it happens apparently. This cost an extra $450 to correct. The hood was aluminum, but the Ford sourced fenders are steel and don't come with the attachment at the front that connects to the radiator support. The OEM aluminum fender has that part bonded to the fender. That part doesn't show up on the ford parts list anywhere. It took about 5 employees and the parts manager to finally figure out what the part was. I decided on an aftermarket aluminum fender that had the front mount already bonded.

I delivered the Ranger to the body shop with all the new parts and the damaged sections removed. They put it on their frame rack but didn't even start working on it for about 3 months. At 6 months they had done some work but were still slow. At around 8 months I get a text from the shop manager that it's ready to pick up. I go down there and find shoddy, incomplete work. The frame work was ok but the pieces that attach the front of the fender to the radiator support were completely missing. They were still in the package on the seat. They're supposed to be welded on. The front of both fenders were just hanging unsupported. Then I noticed there was no separator at the door jamb on the new fender. It was completely open to the fender well. I had supplied the old fender with the plastic separator that was supposed to be moved and bonded to the new fender. They had sent the old fender to the recycler with the separator still attached.

The Ranger was sitting outside their shop. The shop manager went and got the employee who apparently was responsible for the radiator support work. When told he forgot to install the fender supports on the radiator support, he actually suggested just drilling a hole through them and bolting them on. The shop manager told him they needed to be welded, so the employee then asked if he should drag the welder out there and weld them. Mind you the radiator support was painted at that point.

And with all this, the old hood was lying in the bed with the bump stops still in place. There were none in the newly painted hood that was resting directly on the fenders. I was just stunned how unprofessional these people were.

At that point I told the manager I was going to take the Ranger to another shop that would do the work professionally. He was embarrassed by the work of his employees and promised they would make it right.

I sent a letter to the shop owner and shared what was going on and how crappy the work was. He agreed that his employees had dropped the ball and said he would personally oversee the work to get the Ranger back to spec. They ordered a new fender separator from Ford but now it's just a piece of fat foam that doesn't even allow the fender to line up with the door properly. Sticks out at the bottom. So I'm going to have to find a parts Ranger, remove the plastic separator from the fender and fix that myself. It has to be cut from the fender with a long, flexible knife since its basically glued to the body and fender.

The owner was on a business trip the next time they had me come look at it. The clear-coat was rough. It appeared they had contamination in their air supply. Later I found out that's exactly what it was so they had to respray everything after changing their filters.

A month later the manager texts me that it's ready. I tell him to have the owner inspect it first. Next day I get a text that there are still things that they need to fix. A couple of weeks later I get another text saying the same thing. I say the same thing. The next day I'm told there are still things that need corrected. That happened a few times until almost a year later, I go down and decide that the work is going to have to be good enough.

There are still things that irritate me, like rust showing through the paint where the fender supports were welded on. I'll have to sand those spots, rust proof and paint them. The fender-to-hood gap at the front of the hood is wider than the middle and back to the hinges. Wasn't like that on the original hood. Might be because of the repairs due to shipping damage. I'll just have to deal with that.

The intake manifold had to be replaced because of a broken vacuum nipple on the bottom of the plastic manifold. That was fun. Some connections at the back can't even be seen without a mirror, or removed until the manifold is rotated away from the head so you can get your hand back there to unclip them. One of the zip tie clips holding a vacuum hose can only be reached through the driver fender well.

New radiator and AC condenser went in with only some minor adjustments needed to the rubber mounts. Used intercooler is mounted but I have no idea where the intercooler hoses went after a year. Finally gave up looking for them and ordered a used set off eBay.

Installed the Roush wheels with 285/70-17 Dura Trac tires just to see what it was going to look like. I like it. Won't install any of the front end pieces until the plastic separator is installed in the fender since the fender will have to come off again. They didn't seal the separator to the body on the passenger side so I'll have to do that as well. One of the last things I'll do is install minimalist Elite series fender flares.

Didn't notice until replacing the intake manifold that the plastic cover on the throttle body was damage with a piece of it missing. New FoMoCo throttle body just arrived today. Once the intercooler hoses show up I should be able to put enough of it back together to get it running. Still need to find a parts Ranger though for the lighting wiring at the corner that's shredded, in addition to the plastic fender separator.

Still have one major unknown hurdle. The case on the steering rack is cracked around its circumference with a gap of about 2mm. Got a used rack from another 2020. However, it occurred to me that the rack will have to be calibrated and possibly reprogrammed to work properly. Ford won't touch a used rack installed by DIY so not sure what's going to happen there. In Europe there's a company that sells reconditioned racks programmed for your vehicle VIN. Didn't see anything like that here in the States when originally looking.

Definitely could have used a crystal ball last year to tell me to just walk away from this one. But here we are deep in it so just have to keep going.

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At least you're not living the day to day horrors of driving the 5G and having to deal with mixer doors malfunctions, fuel in oil, rodent infestations, stumbling hesitation and the slam bam transmission...aahhhh...delayed gratification...
 


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XionUAV

XionUAV

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One thing you have done and that is teaching us all to not try to rebuild a salvage vehicle.
I used to rebuild VW Jetta's, Passats and Audi A4's fairly often. Not major crash damage but light stuff. This Ranger rebuild shouldn't have been that difficult but the unprofessional body shop and crap parts suppliers made it that way.

Ran into another wall today when I discovered the new used intercooler hoses I purchased are missing the retainer clips for the intercooler side. I'm missing one stinking clip so until I can source another one, getting it running is stalled, again.

My decision last year after being deep into this one was to sell the 2012 extended cab Frontier with 6spd manual I had in favor of keeping and driving this one once it was repaired. Still kind of wishing I had just kept and driven the Frontier. But it is what it is and we deal with the consequences of our choices.
 
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XionUAV

XionUAV

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At least you're not living the day to day horrors of driving the 5G and having to deal with mixer doors malfunctions, fuel in oil, rodent infestations, stumbling hesitation and the slam bam transmission...aahhhh...delayed gratification...
As is usually the case, I've heard both good and bad. Recently I was at a home store and talked to a guy in the parking lot who was driving a 2019 from what I recall. He said he had about 110k miles on it and hadn't had any issues except a failure of something in the dash that was apparently covered under warranty. Otherwise he said it drove well and was trouble free.

One time I bought my wife a Chevy Equinox and it ended up being a real POS. The blend door failed. Quote from the dealer was $1,200 to fix it. The part was less than a dollar, seriously. To repair it I had to remove the entire dash down to the firewall and split the heater box at the core to fix the blend door. A tiny clip had failed. Then I found out the transaxle case was worn around the driver half-shaft output. It was seeping oil and couldn't be fixed with a new seal. One time I turned on the headlights (switch was on the turn signal stalk) and smoke came out of the switch.

Traded it in on a branded title Passat with 4,500 miles. Drove that to 115k and sold it to get my wife a buy-back 2022 VW Taos 4-Motion with 700 miles on it. She felt a little guilty afterward because the Passat had been absolutely trouble free. Not a drip of oil anywhere under the engine either. Even the serpentine belt still looked good. The Taos is a nice little, well-equipped SUV though. She loves it.

I'm that guy who used to buy vehicles at 100k (usually foreign and a manual so pricey auto transmission failures weren't an issue) and drove them to 200k or 250k doing 90% of my own maintenance. I understand the "Buy American" thing, even though a lot of the components are manufactured and assembled out of country, but it's been my experience that German and Japanese vehicles on average are just better quality. Period. There are exceptions, of course, but I'm talking on average.

My Q5 has around 155k miles. It's even been across our local desert and on various trails. I was going to sell it when I got the Touareg, which has only 40k miles and is getting a lift, off-road tires and whatnot. But the Q5 is just a great little SUV that runs fantastic.

So will I still keep the Ranger once it's finished? Time will tell.
 
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XionUAV

XionUAV

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I posted this separately as well. Need to find out where these sensors mount. I took lots of pictures during disassembly but apparently not enough in the right places. There's one behind each headlight bucket. Thank you.

BTW, aside from the above, we're down to filling up the cooling system, isolating the shredded front driver wiring and installing the battery. Then it will be time to turn the key.

I read in a post on this site that the new throttle body can be manually calibrated by turning on the key and slowly moving the pedal from rest to full throttle several times. Anyone know if there's any truth to that?

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XionUAV

XionUAV

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Another member suggested these are impact sensors. Figured out where they go after noticing from a disassembly photo the pair of wires with clips at the bottom of the radiator support.

Picked up some antifreeze, topped off and cleaned up the battery and connections and am very close to firing it up for the first time in over a year.

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XionUAV

XionUAV

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SHE LIVES...mostly.

Fired right up after sitting without a battery for over a year. Two warnings came up on the dash - Brake System and Over Temperature. Really hoping it wasn't actually overheated at some point and the error is still stored in the ECU. The motor sounds good and idles well, if not slightly rough, but I would expect that with the ECU not having power for a year, and because of the problem I'll describe next. Haven't connected an ODBII yet.

Here's the mostly part. The intake isn't charging. It's in a vacuum condition and the intercooler hoses are sucked flat. I still have very little experience with the Ranger at this point but it would seem logical that a door in the intake around the turbo must be closed. I'll post in the tech section about this but if anyone has any advice I'll certainly listen.

EDIT: I just realized that one of the wiring harnesses that's shredded goes to the map sensor on the intercooler. Need to get that repaired first before considering anything else.

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XionUAV

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Problem solved.

I had started a thread about the lack of charge issue but will continue the general rebuild here. Another member had questioned if I had left a rag in one of the pipes when everything was put back together. That was highly unlikely given how thorough and experienced I am. But as I looked over the intake system in the Ford shop manual, there was nothing mechanical that could cause that much blockage.

Then it started to sink in. I hadn't seen a shop rag in the hose at the air box. There should have been one there. Then more revelation.

The people at the body shop wanted me to bring down the radiator so they could start the vehicle to move it around their shop. How installing the radiator would allow that to work was baffling when the intercooler and piping was missing and all the open hoses and connectors in the intake, emissions and cooling system were all plugged or covered. Not to mention there was no radiator support to even mount the radiator to. I told them specifically to not start the vehicle for that reason. They were only to push it around in neutral.

However, the tow driver who dropped it off put it in park after rolling it off the truck. The only way to get it out of park is to connect power to the battery terminals. I have no doubt that they started the vehicle anyway to move it around.

With that, I removed the intake boot and stuck a bore scope down the plastic junction. Sure enough, there was the shop rag that had been sucked down toward the turbo. I used a flexible grabber with the 4 teeth and was able to extricate the rag. The motor runs reasonably well now although still not perfectly smoothly. Getting the intercooler MAP sensor wiring in place and a proper throttle body calibration will be next on the list.

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XionUAV

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It's come a long way...

And after looking at that picture, I just realized something. The original fan was clear-ish yellow. The fan on it now is black. They said nothing about replacing the fan. Obviously they damaged it somehow and replaced it with a new one and never told me.

They also left a pair of gray OEM flares in the back seat that look like they came from an F-150. I told them they weren't mine when the truck was still at the shop. I didn't realize they were still in there until after the truck was delivered to my home, so someone is missing their flares.

Honestly, I am just absolutely baffled that this shop is still in business.

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XionUAV

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Here's a parts miracle if I've ever seen one.

No less than 13 local and online salvage yards either wouldn't or couldn't allow me to get the front left wiring with connectors for whatever reasons. One local yard said they had a 2020 but it had front end damage and doubted the parts I needed were any good, but I was welcome to come take a look.

They actually had two 2020's that were pretty far gone. Fortunately the white one not only still had the MAP wiring and connector, along with the lighting wiring, it has an intact plastic fender separator and even a good fender lip trim piece. And I'll probably get the hood release cable as well since mine has a kink in it. While you're doing stuff you might as well do it right.

Beyond this though, I learned there were horns at the bottom of the radiator support. Mine had none. What I thought was part of a horn tucked away inside the smashed fender is likely for the alarm or door lock notification. I'm just guessing but it would make sense. Instead of blipping the horn that alerts everyone for a half mile when you lock the doors from the fob, my Euro vehicles just give a "beep" from somewhere.

It's stupid hot here now so I'll work on some of the wiring this weekend and retrieve the other parts early Monday. This will also give me a chance to get some of the misc. blind nuts and specialty hardware that are nearly impossible to find aftermarket.

What this means is I should have or have access to all the required remaining parts necessary to finally put the Ranger back together completely. There are still some things like the air deflectors that go on each side of the intercooler, but honestly I'm not sure if those are really necessary or not. I'll probably still source them and put them back on though since they were OEM.

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XionUAV

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Managed to get most of the wiring done. That means soldering new connectors for the headlight, intercooler map sensor, small horn in fender, main horns and side light. Had two extra small wires that are apparently for the ambient air sensor. It was completely missing. Fortunately they're very common so ordered one with the connector and bloody ends off Amazon. Hooked up FORscan and it showed the Ambient Air Sensor was open so 99% sure that's it.

The main horns were missing as well. I was planning to get an airless train horn but opted to just grab a couple of Fiamm's off an Explorer while at the salvage yard. Hooked them up and gave them a test. They're pretty loud so I think that will do.

The last 4 wires I suspect are for the driving/fog lights. Still need to verify that. I'm installing aftermarket driving lights so those will be custom wired anyway.

Did a mock-up of the upper bumper cover support and discovered there are mounts that are missing. The entire support was missing when I bought it. Ford's parts diagrams leave a lot to be desired not accurately depicting the actual part design so I just ordered two sets of parts that show they're for the cover support. Guess we'll find out in a week or so.

Here's my next dilemma.

There are normally 4 air deflectors to the radiator - one above, one below, and a "baffle" on each side mounted to the radiator support. Spending money hand-over-foot on this thing is getting old so I'm wondering how many of these deflectors are really necessary and which ones are just an engineer's guess of what might be useful, but don't appreciably aid in cooling.

The upper piece (3) is only about $32 plus shipping. The lower one (11) around $100 to $125 and the side baffles (8) around $80 to $100 each. I honestly can't see that the side baffles do that much. The lower one looks like it might be intended to work with the stock bumper. This Ranger will be getting a Rough Country bumper so not sure about that one. The upper one looks like it helps keep air from going over the top of the radiator support.

Tried to figure out how to monitor the throttle body calibration in FORscan and never could. Lot's more research needed on that front. Too many acronyms, not enough plain English. Instead I just removed battery power, reconnected it and let it idle for about 10 minutes. It settled into a very nice idle. Won't be driving it though until more parts are installed.

Last actual failure that needs fixed is the coolant temp sensor. Gauge is pegged with an "overheat" message. Haven't found good information on that either, other than the sensor is apparently part of the thermostat housing buried under the intake manifold. I really, really, really don't want to take that thing off again.

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