Audio upgrade shenanigans. (picture heavy)

fusseli

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Great - I'd never be able to do it. I really like the idea of sound deadening!
It’s worth doing and not that hard. Check out my build thread!
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Plinky

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I did use forscan to turn off the inbuilt DSP and turn the speaker outputs into line outputs. I still used the LOC so I could get a summed sub line out. This LOC supports auto sense/turn-on and has a remote turn-on output that I use to power up the two kicker amps. Even with the LOC gains turned all the way up I still only get a little less than 2 volts, but it seems to be enough. And no clipping either as tested with an oscilloscope.
Ordered something that I hope will make a difference in the line level voltage from an OEM head to an aftermarket amp:

https://www.amazon.com/Peripheral-PAC-LD10-Driver-Booster/dp/B003LWV77Y

According to the instructions from PAC it should boost the line level up enough drive an amp more efficiently. They claim it can get up to 8 volts.

Waiting on 2 of these, some 9-wire, RCA connectors, & a t-harness. If I'm lucky I'll get to play with it this weekend. You by any chance have any pics of your radio connector? I have the schematic from Motorcraft, but unsure what's really there. Your stereo should be identical to mine. I have a bunch of weather-pack connectors, so I fit them to the t-harness & also to the 9-wire at the radio. Makes it a little cleaner & quick to disconnect if needed.

Now I just need to find a proper remote turn on circuit. I have an LCQ-1 gathering dust, but I don't feel like installing it just to get a turn on signal. I can probably rig up something with a simple relay (I have a zillion of them in my toolbox).
 

TBR17

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Hey all, I thought I'd post my audio upgrade adventure.

I have a 2019 supercab XLT so no B&O. I have Sync 3 and the 8" screen, upgraded to Sync 3.4.

The stock system wasn't terrible, but I wanted better. And I wanted to do it retaining the stock look.

Parts List:

T-harness
Speed wire
DS18 loc/line driver. This give me a summed sub woofer output.
Kicker Key 200.4 4 channel auto DSP amp
Kicker Key 500.1 auto DSP sub amp
JL Audio C1-660 Components
JL Audio 6.5" sub, 6W3v3-4
Plyboard
Sound deadening material
Poly fill
20 amp fuse taps.
Power and Ground wire.
Other miscellaneous hardware...

First thing I did was use Forscan to disable the built in DSP and to enable line level outputs. In my testing using 0db test tones and an oscilloscope with line outs enabled the head unit produces no distortion even at full volume. Without line level outputs enabled distortion starts at 20 on the dial. Line level outputs appear to be 2 volt.

Then I made the dash side of the wiring harness using the T-Harness:
IMG_20200812_182044.jpg


For power I repurposed the two 20 amp fuses in the fuse box for the B&O system I don't have. This makes it so I don't have to drill a hole in the firewall for power.

I repurposed the space under the rear drivers side seat for my amp rack. I put the jack and accessories in my swing boxes.

With wires ran and amps mounted it looks like this:
IMG_20200811_162340.jpg


IMG_20200812_192535.jpg


IMG_20200812_193443.jpg


Everything just fits, and I can get to all of the adjustments.
IMG_20200819_143538.jpg



Now onto the speakers. I ordered them from Crutchfield and they sent along very good instructions on how to disassemble everything.

The new tweeters fit the stock locations like they were supposed to be there.
IMG_20200815_121906.jpg


Note: I didn't use the tweeters for the rear channels, I run those full range.

New vs Old Speakers:
IMG_20200815_125209.jpg

IMG_20200815_125223.jpg


They look nice installed
IMG_20200815_133601.jpg

IMG_20200818_191249.jpg


On to the sub. For the sub I decided to use the space under the rear passenger side seat. I took out the plastic bin and then sound deadened the rest to within and inch of it's life. I used the holes were the three plastic retainers that hold the plastic bin on to hold on the top plate I made. I drilled out the holes a little bigger and used threaded rivet inserts.
IMG_20200820_140155.jpg

IMG_20200820_173735.jpg

IMG_20200820_134706.jpg

IMG_20200820_141215.jpg

IMG_20200820_141253.jpg


I did add polyfil and foam strips to the back edges of the mounting plate to create a seal., but forgot to take pictures of that.

Final product
IMG_20200820_185414.jpg


Everything put back together, looks stock still except for the yellow speakers.
IMG_20200820_193604.jpg


If you sit in that seat you can tell something is under it but it's not bad. ...I'm mean no worse that sitting in that seat to begin with.


I probably missed some steps.

Questions? Ridicule?

Thanks!

IMG_20200309_173334.jpg
Inspirational and very nicely done. I too have a SuperCab and did not think that much was possible given the limited space. The Lariat SC does not come with the B&O so was thinking of a sub upgrade at the least.
 

ceejkay

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Another thing to note: Since the park assist and other beeps and buzzers use the stereo speakers and don't have a volume control I set the gains on my amps so that was volume I wanted. If I had set the gains in the traditional way the park assist would have blown me out of the truck first time it came on.

The Forscan codes I used were:
ACM
727-01-01 xx50 Turns on line-outs.
727-01-02 00xx Turns off factory DSP.
Could you post a pic or explain a little more of your forscan mods. I’m having a hell of a time getting rid of all the extra bass from the oem dsp.
 
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pocket_geek

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Could you post a pic or explain a little more of your forscan mods. I’m having a hell of a time getting rid of all the extra bass from the oem dsp.
I'll get back to this and answer some other questions in this thread, I've just been super busy the last few weeks.
 


Langwilliams

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I ordered a pair of Hertz component speakers for the front doors. They have a a high sensitivity rating, I'm hoping that helps since I'm not adding an amp. I run a coax pair of Hertz in my Harley with an amp an I really like them.

it'd be nice to find a video or something of the super cab rear door skin removal....Guess it's gonna be trial an error on the first one.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_301K170/Hertz-K-170.html?omnews=16751583
 

Flapilot

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@pocket_geek
I’m trying to track the wiring here.

From the head unit to T harness then all 8 into the dsp(yellow wires?) then Dsp to rca to key 500 and key 200? Then back to t harness.
 
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pocket_geek

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I’m trying to track the wiring here.

From the head unit to T harness then all 8 into the dsp(yellow wires?) then Dsp to rca to key 500 and key 200? Then back to t harness.
Let me take some pictures of my extra FOR-11CK harness and try and explain what I did. (Yeah, I have an extra. I bought two because I figured I'd screw one up and didn't)

1621824117705.png

Here is the harness fresh out of the package. You'll notice the bare ends are all taped together.
1621824206923.png

I removed that bit of tape to make things less insane.
1621824770982.png

Here's things annotated showing where everything goes. I did not use the Yellow or Black wire for my install.

To run from the dash to the LOC then from AMP back to the dash I used some 9 conductor speed wire, but didn't use the 9th (blue) wire.

I ran battery and ground to my LOC and AMPS. The LOC I'm using is smart enough to only turn on when it has signal and provides a signal wire to my AMPS, so I didn't have to worry about finding a accessory wire to tap.
 

Dr.Me

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Like an idiot I was trying to clean up my wiring(finally have time)as my previous set up I just tapped into the wires in the kick panels and at the base of front seat belts. I got some speed wire and the for-11ck harness but I lost all audio. The speakers don't play anything and I can't select audio source or open audio settings. Anyone else have this issue and solved it?

2019 XLT no B&O 8" touch screen

Only modification I've done to harness was remove speaker pins from female/car side since my amp is behind rear seats I didn't want to run more wire into dash.
 

kieefer

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Nice, good job ?
 

calistangr

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What's up fellas, I have been wanting to upgrade my system for some time now after reading this thread. So now that it's cooling down I started phase 2 of 4 of my upgrade. Which is hard wire in and install the amplifier for the door speak and I chose the Kicker cxa 360.4. It's pretty much idgit proof. Yes I use the CAr124 harness thingy and a few quick connect plugs but other than that it's a straight run to the amp.
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